1997 Cavalier w/ Passlock I problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=27918
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 12:19 PM
Topic: 1997 Cavalier w/ Passlock I problem
Posted By: backinblack_gp
Subject: 1997 Cavalier w/ Passlock I problem
Date Posted: March 07, 2004 at 7:17 PM
Hi. I am in the midst of installing a remote start/security system into my sister-in-law's 1997 Cavalier utilizing the Passlock I theft deterrant system. I am planning on permanently bypassing the system using a relay and appropriate resistor, however when I attempt to read the resistance between the black bulb test wire and the computer side of the severed yellow ignition cylinder wire, my Fluke DMM fails to read because there is a voltage differential across these two wires. If I use a cheap meter, I can sometimes read around 1.5M-Ohm resistance, but only if the meter leads are in one polarity. If I switch the leads, my meter reads overload or out-of-range. Of course, when the car is started either by remote or with the key, the computer shuts it down after 2 seconds. Does anyone have any other clever tricks to workaround this problem? Does anyone know the valid resistance ranges for the Passlock I system? Is 1.5M-Ohm even valid itself? At the moment, I have disabled the remote start feature, and reconnected the yellow Passlock wire, and she can still use the remote for keyless entry and alarm. Is the shut down signal sent along the data bus to the PCM from the IC, or is this a different undocumented circuit that I can modify? Thanks in advance for your help! -=Brian=-
Replies:
Posted By: ck auto
Date Posted: March 07, 2004 at 7:43 PM
hi your should be reading off key side of yellow wire not computer side ------------- good luck
kirk
Posted By: sroth140
Date Posted: March 07, 2004 at 9:56 PM
hi, you should stop making things difficult and buy a 555L
-------------
MECP certified installer
Posted By: backinblack_gp
Date Posted: March 08, 2004 at 5:50 AM
Oops, my bad. I DID in fact attempt to read from the KEY cylinder side of the yellow wire, not the computer side, AND the car is a 1999, not a 1997. (This is what I get for posting while half asleep...  ) I've read elsewhere on this site that the resistor/relay "fix" is more reliable than the bypass modules... And in either case, I still need to be able to read the correct value to set the module... -------------
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 08, 2004 at 9:05 AM
The prefabbed modules are easier to install but more expensive than the relay/resistor methods. Each has their own pro's and con's, but I like them odules because they are all self learning and the time it saves me with the installation is worth more than the couple of dollars that I save from the relay/resistor method.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: backinblack_gp
Date Posted: March 08, 2004 at 6:16 PM
At the moment, she does not have the $$$ to put into the additional module, that is why I am leaning towards the relay & resistor/pot bypass. We do not worry much about having the vehicle stolen, mostly because of location, and the fact that it's just a Cavalier...  Anyway, I still need to read the resistance across the bulb test wire and the yellow PL wire at the ignition side... Is there an order of operations that I'm missing here, or what??? -------------
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 09, 2004 at 12:06 AM
Passlock I bypass diagram------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: JakeJ
Date Posted: March 09, 2004 at 12:11 AM
I am prety sure the resistance needs to be mesured between the key side yellow and the black wire that is run with it. Not the bulb test wire.
-------------
Wyoming 12volt Enthusiast
Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: March 09, 2004 at 9:22 AM
Yeah JakeJ is correct.
I recommend using this bypass method which is only a temporary bypass method which is best. I do recommend using this over a module for Cavaliers though and the 2 relays method is better than 1 from my experience.
Passlock I Temporary Bypass
It is Diagram 3 on the upper Right corner of the page. ------------- J Rilla
Owner/Installer
Posted By: elf_mack
Date Posted: March 09, 2004 at 10:53 AM
99 cavileers may use a pass lock 2 system. It is best to use a directed 555l bypass module or crimestopper makes a great self learning unit that wires into the purple wire at the diagnostic plug...One wire hook up just plug train and change the jumper to operating position. It is called a PLDATA. works on all the pass lock systems.
Posted By: backinblack_gp
Date Posted: March 09, 2004 at 4:33 PM
JakeJ] wrote:
am prety sure the resistance needs to be mesured between the key side yellow and the black wire that is run with it. Not the bulb test wire.
I agree, but check this out: https://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm . I apparently made the mistake of assuming that the "black wire" in step #6 was the aforementioned bulb test wire... Those directions should be written more clearly... I will re-visit the car this weekend, and hopefully finish the install for her ina timely manner. Thanks to all for your assistance! Last question: What are the valid resistance ranges that I should be seeing across the yell (key side) lead and the black lead at the lock cylinder??? -------------
Posted By: sroth140
Date Posted: March 11, 2004 at 2:44 AM
95-99 = passlock I 00+ = passlock II https://www.directed.com/guides/manuals/ig/accessories/N555L_7-02B.pdf heres DEIs 555L bypass manual... page 4 lists the vehicles and what type they have. also, the wiring is there to follow. i wish people would just buy the damn bypass. you make 7 connections and you are done. no measuring, no relays/resistors or any of that crap. you get key switch side, computer side, ground ref, bulb check, starter trigger, constant and ignition. and done. you have to make a few of those connections anyway, so do it in the pre-wire. ------------- MECP certified installer
Posted By: tj94accord
Date Posted: April 23, 2004 at 3:11 PM
Is the resistor/relay way of doing it reliable? And does it matter if you do the temporary bypass or the permenant? My girlfriend has a 97 cavalier, and I'm probably going to do a remote start in it for her. I have done a lot of remote starts, the only one that gave me problems was the Cavalier. I was using a DEI bypass module too. We ended up using a relay and the module to get it to work, but I can't remember how we did it, it was over a year ago. I'm not worried about her car being stolen, as it is a cavalier :). Just wanna make sure it will all work before I go and buy the stuff.
tim
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