Viper 791XV Wiring Problems

Hey Everyone,

I'm having a few little problems with my viper 791xv that I installed over the weekend on my 96 Trans Am. First, which wire from the alarm gets hooked into the - Trunk Trigger? When I open the trunk it shows door violation. lol. Second, I'm having problems with the Remote start....it goes through the motion, and the starter winds up, but doesn't engage.....it may be due to improper connection of the purple and green start module wires??? or maybe VATS problems (I have the bypass module hooked up) I'm wondering where the proper spot would be to connect these 2 wires (purplae and green) to the starter wire, and do you all recommend using the on-board starter kill. Third, and most retarded, my LED's aren't working! lol I have 2 led's hooked up to the connection, from my old alarm, and they worked fine, so I basically just soldered the new connector to those led's and hooked it up....but no worky.

If anyone has any ideas, especially with the remote start, they would be appreciated.

Thanks

Aaron :^:

Ya, I'm pretty lazy that way....I knew something would go wrong when it only took me 2 hrs to install. lol. The green and purple wires are fine, I just had a "stupid moment" and made it seem harder than it is. The VATS diagram you sent me shows the vats wire being connected to the blue status wire, but that is part of the ribbon between the remote start and alarm module, so should it be hooked up to the 2nd status output wire (H3/1 Blue/White), or the factory disarm wire(H2/1)?. As of right now, I don't have the H2 harness connected at all (I will be adding window modules later, and don't need 2nd locks, or wait to start).

I looked at the other posting about the trunk but didn't get the answer. The instructions are really confusing in a couple of areas, for instance, in the main wiring instructions, H1/6 is a multiplex - trigger, and it says it can be used for an optional sensor (which I hooked a radar sensor to) and will show up as Zone 4. At the back of the instructions, in the table of zones, it says the blue H1/6 wire triggers zone 1, for the trunk. WHAT THE HELL IS IT? There is a couple of areas where the instructions contradict themselves.

The wrong mA is a possibility for the LED, but LEd's barely draw any power, so I don't see how going from 1 to 2 would make a difference....at least it didn't with my other system. I have to check to make sure the connections are all good.....I may head out tonight and check everything over.

Man, I gotta stop with that cold medication.....I should probably throw the key in the ignition, turn it to on, and then try the remote start, that will tell me if it's the VATS or not@!! lol. I suck.

As for that other posting.....I'm still pretty sure that blue wire shows Sensor 2 on the LCD and not TRUNK. In the instructiuons it says nothing about connecting it to the trunk trigger, but does say to cennect an optional sensor to it, if wanted.

See, this is another one of those contradictory things.....in the wiring instructions, it says the blue wire is for an optional extra sensor. In the chart diagram, it shows it as the trunk trigger. So, I'm guessing it's for the trunk, but now, where do I hook up my second sensor so that it shows which sensor is triggering on the remote?

I'm very confused, and a little annoyed. lol

you have to pay attention to which harness has that color. There is a good chance colors are reused BUT they are always on different harnesses.

You really have to read the directions and look at the scematic on the last page on the install guide.

Brian

OK, I've read further into this sensor/trigger/input/annoyance. It makes sense that the blue wire is for the - trunk. Fine. The instructions show all sorts of different things for which zone is which and I think they assigned a new person for every page to write the instructions. Anyways, there is a diagram showing the addition of a secondary dual zone sensor to the shock sensor port, simply by cutting the green shock sensor wire and splicing the sensor side green to the blue wire....then splicing the blue and green of your optional sensor to the alarm side of the green shock sensor input. Now, it also reads you do not need diodes to isolate, whoich is fine, since your not running 2 signals on one line, but this does kind of eliminate the purpose of dual stage sensors, when on the otherhand the alarm doesn't work with 2 triggers for 2 zones, it works on timing (less than 0.8 sec is warn away, otherwise full trigger). Hopefully everyone's following. Now, my question is:: The icon which reports sensor 1 and sensor 2 (little box on remote), does this report the green for 1 and blue for 2 (or vice versa) for the shock sensor port, because if it does, it would make WAY MORE SENSE!!! and all of this crap would be so much easier!! If anyone knows...please tell me. I guess if you've installed an optinal sensor and noticed if the sensor icon changed with stage one or stage two of the sensor....then that would be it. I'm really dragging on here!!

God this is tiring me out!! haha 

I was confused too.  Here was the answer to my question:
https://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_CGI/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001687

Check this out too:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=27701&KW=dual+zone+sensor

Sweetness. Glad to hear I'm not the only one in this boat. I did know about the seperate power sources tho....already ran into that problem with my old alarm....no power to the radar sensor means no worky, and false alarms when there's a spike.

Just one question....when I hooked the extra sensor up, I read in those postings, I should connect the ground to a ground when armed on the alarm?!? Why is this necessary? Can't the sensor be on at all times, as long as the alarm is disarmed, it won't trigger anything?!?!?! That confused me a little.

Puddy905 wrote:

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Just one question....when I hooked the extra sensor up, I read in those postings, I should connect the ground to a ground when armed on the alarm?!? Why is this necessary? Can't the sensor be on at all times, as long as the alarm is disarmed, it won't trigger anything?!?!?! That confused me a little.

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The sensor is "on at all times," only when it is armed will the alarm brain recognize the triggers.

You can,

but I would use the "ground when armed".     This is just my idea:   I think if something is on all day and all night long, that might reduce its life span.   This just seems logic to me.     I have never tested this theorie, but I think that a radar sensor that just comes on with arming the car has a greater life span than a radar sensor that is on 24 hours a day.

Greetings

OK. Everything is sorted out on the alarm, with no problems. The remote start on the other hand, is a different story. Here's what's happening:

I press the button(remote start), it gets to the point where it's about to crank (starter moves in) but no crank.

If I put the key in the ignition, press the remote start, the engine cranks, turns over, then shuts down right away.

If I put the key in the ignition, turn it to run, hit the remote start, the engines starts, runs fine, but 3 seconds later, it cranks again.

I checked my VATS, and it's hooked up properly, I used the - disarm wire on the H2 harness to trigger the relay. I have my tach wire hooked right into the PCM, yet when I run the car, and try to do a tach learn, nothing happens. My old remote starter didn't have an ignition 2 + wire (only a - wire which was used to trigger the VATS relay), so nothing was connected to the ignition 2 on the car, so I left that the same. Also, I idn't connect the green wire (onboard starter kill) bc I'm sceptical on cutting the starter kill.

If anybody thinks either of these wires (Pink/White and Green on heavy harness) are the problem, let me know....but it seems like I have a series of problems!!

HELP!!