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always starts on 2nd attempt

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=28559
Printed Date: May 13, 2025 at 3:49 PM


Topic: always starts on 2nd attempt

Posted By: markcars
Subject: always starts on 2nd attempt
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 4:42 PM

My remote-start always starts my car on the second attempt.

I hear the starter crank for about 1 second, then stops, then after the programmed delay, cranks again for about 1 second and the car starts ok. This is now happening every time I start my car with my remote-start. (Works normal when start with key). Anyone has any ideas?



Replies:

Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 4:56 PM
set your crank time a little longer

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 5:28 PM
Or re-program your tach wire and make sure that you have your car run idle for at least 5 minutes.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: rudbwoy69camaro
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 5:58 PM
I know on my Tahoe, when it's cold it does the same thing.  The RSX3.5 doesn't allow enough time to prime/power the fuel pump.  It'll start on the second try, weird-like as if I wired the ignitions out of sequence.

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Posted By: markcars
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 7:57 PM
I already tried reprogramming the tach signal (which goes up to 6v on my car) at least 3 times. The alarm manual says to program the tach by putting it in "learn mode", which should be complete when my LED turns green. Well the LED turns green in less than a second. Maybe I should set it to learn-mode and leave it for 5 minutes in idle like Jeff says. I will give that a try.

What happens if you reverse IGN 1 and 2 wires from RS unit to Car?   Does that make this happen?




Posted By: sroth140
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 12:45 AM
sometimes ign2 can drop out during crank.  some units do that.  what did you use for your tach wire, what remote start unit, and what vehicle are you talking about.

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MECP certified installer




Posted By: tcool
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 2:19 AM
I am having the same problem on an 04 Toyota Highlander. I thought it might be a transponder issue, but I haven't checked it out yet. What model car is doing this?

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bzzzzttttt




Posted By: markcars
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 4:39 AM
Sroth140, I am using an OmegaMax remote start unit on a Highlander 03. I used the tach signal wire from the engine ECU going straight to the tach input of the RS unit.

tcool, which Remote Start unit did you use? Like sroth140 said, it could be the two ignitions either out of sequence or ign2 dropping out during crank. I am almost certain he's absolutely right. On the first attempt, it looks like power is not given to the fuel pump circuit which somehow gets power from backfiring from other circuits, but not full power so the unit shuts off. On the second attempt, the fuel that was pumped from the "trial" at teh first attempt is barely enough so the engine starts. I don't know if this can damage the car in the long run. I am going to change my wiring sequence to my ign's asap.

I don';t think it has anything to do with the transponder since if that was the case, the car would never start. Since it attempts to start, the transponder stage is out of the question.




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 6:47 AM
Second Ignition is BLACK / YELLOW and primary ignition is BLACK. The pictures I sent to you have all this information on there. Did you use a designated 2nd ignition output wire from the OmegaMax starter ? If so was it a (-) trigger or was it a (+) trigger  ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: markcars
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 9:03 AM
The Omegamax has only 1 ignition output however, the accessory output can be converted to a 2nd IGN output by changing the jumper position inside the brain, which makes the ACC become a 2nd IGN. But then you lose the ACC which won't let the heater work even though the blowers work. I thought I don't need the ACC if it powers the radio since I won't be in the car while remote-starting anyway. But no, the heater doesn't turn on. So I changed that again and put back the ACC to its right wire and put back the jumper to its original state. I then added 3 relays which works just like I want it to, but there is a slight delay in IGN2 getting ignited and that seems to be the cause, so I am going to change that again. My last options are an extra switch or a dedicated relay that is energized from the brain's satellite outputs. I ordered this already and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. This time I am sure it will work. If it doesn't I will post results again.

Thanks. Also I was reading the repair manuals and if I remember correctly, ign1 and ign2 were reversed.




Posted By: sroth140
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 2:59 PM

ahhh, after i looked up the wiring on Directechs Directwire, i remember doing one of these.  on the one i did, it didnt need the transponder ring :o .  lucky me i guess.  i dont think i used the tach wire tho, directwire said it was at the ecm behind the glove box and i didnt feel like messing with it.... ha...

did you do keyless entry too?  i remember that being fun, you have to use a relay and a handful of diodes.  kinda goofy setup but it worked.  we use DEI products (avatal) in our bay and they come equipped with two 12v, one starter, one accy, and two ign wires.  i guess that setup was perfectly fine, everything worked.



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MECP certified installer




Posted By: markcars
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 3:16 PM
ya you were lucky in the sense that you had 2 igns. about the transponder it really isnt that much of a problem since all you have to do is connect just one more piece. I guess I was lucky too as I dont have one either but I used my tach. And about the door keyless entry, that was the most fun. I had to get inside the doors to cut the wires and add more wires through the tube that connects the car to the door. was fun indeed other than it rained when I was testing all my wires with the door opened and cut wires and DMM barely connected to live unprotected wires.




Posted By: sroth140
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 3:26 PM
you went into the door?  that sucks.  i did it in the passenger  kick, the 3 wires are layed out right in the open.  you can trace them from there into the door boot.  Grey, Blue/White, and Lt. green.  thats only on the 01+ highlanders.  good to know for the future tho.  for people who have access to directed documents, its #1070.

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MECP certified installer




Posted By: markcars
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 4:09 PM
well sroth140, I take it you did it the less fun way without the dual stage door unlock. If you do it in the passenger side, you won;t get dual stage but one press to unlock all doors. I wanted the dual-stage unlock, so I had to get into the driver's door. There's no other way since the door ecu is inside the door and switch in there too, therefore getting between them, you gotta get into the door.




Posted By: sroth140
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 6:10 PM
yup thatll do it, i didnt know you went for that setup.  sometimes i forget thats an option.  i think ive had one customer ask me to do that and it was on an 01 santa fe or something...  cool choice tho.

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MECP certified installer





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