window rollup module not working
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=28571
Printed Date: May 15, 2025 at 1:54 AM
Topic: window rollup module not working
Posted By: coolcat14
Subject: window rollup module not working
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 6:54 PM
I just installed a "smart" window rollup module from asian wolf. The module can roll my 2 windows up and down. Well, the thing is it doesn't do that. It will put my left window all the way down when the truck is running and stop there not even trying to put the right one down. I try to put up my windows (all this via remote) and they won't budge. Now if the engine is not running the left one goes down about 3 inches stops then proceeds to roll down the right window 3 inches and stops. I try to put the windows up and they will go up in the same fashion that I described above, about 3 inches and stopping. - 1.What changes whether the vechicle is running or not for the up operation? In fact I did this: the input to move the window is (-) so I grounded the wire while the truck was running and nothing. As soon as I turned off the engine the windows tried to go up!! My constant 12 is constant so no problem there and my ground is good. What could cause this I have no idea.
- 2. Why doesn't the module roll my windows all the way down while the truck is not running? This is why I bought in the first place.
I am very sure that it is installed properly. I'm thinking the unit is crap but I wanted to check here if anything would come up. Thanks- Chris ------------- Save a Tree
Kill a Beaver
Replies:
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 6:57 PM
what is the yr of the truck ------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 8:06 PM
My Friend,
This whole operation is triggered by your alarm, obviously. Don't make the mistake of blaming the truck, when the windows operate as normal from the trucks window switches, yes?! It's the way in which you have the Module and output trigger wired, and the pulsed/latched settings on the alarm trigger option for the output your using. Verify that you are in fact using a "ground when armed" only output. I am also using the same unit from the same merchant- no problems. I would further guess that if you still have the motor wires "tapped" with the module's control wires instead of truly passed through the module, this would create the confused "reverse polarity show" you are experiencing. One other item of note, if by chance you are tapping a pulse/lock window switch circuit where the drivers window rolls all the way down when triggered, this can in some instances cause the module to freak. A diode or two can take care of that with ease. Take a deep breath, and go back to your tie in points and make sure you have the module's motor and switch wires correct as I mentioned,and that the settings for the alarm output are set such that you have at least 3sec. on the trigger's operation. These sound like the culprit.
I hope this helps.  ------------- elrock-SS
Posted By: coolcat14
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 8:28 AM
The truck is a 95 silverado. I never really thought it was the truck, sorry if I pointed in that direction. Yes, the switches operate the windows as normal. I haven't had a problem there. Its when the module tries to control the windows. My output is 2 (-) auxiliary wires (one for up and one for down) from my remote starter, they work just fine when testing them with a meter. I have changed the output back and forth from .3 sec to 5 sec. The module needs a single pulse and the windows will try to go down (1 by 1) but stop at about 3 inches. The right window , once in a while, will go down about 6 inches and every time it does I think: "its gonna work, its gonna go all the way down!!" but no, it stops. [:(] This all when the truck is off. If its running the left window will go all the way down and the module won't even try to put the right window down. Back to the pulse output. When I had it at 5, the left window will go down, stop, put the right one down, stop, then (since the ouput pulse is still negative) the left window will go down another 3 inches, stop, and put the right window down 3 inches. Its like the module thinks something is impeding the motion of the windows so I pushed down on the windows and the same result. Do you know how these modules operate? How does it know when to stop? from the current draw or from the drop in voltage from the battery line? Also does this unit automatically put down the windows a few inches when in extreme temp? If so will it roll them back up? And can you stop it from venting at all? I have had the wires cut and they pass through the module like the install paper showed. The plug going into the truck switch has only 6 wires: +12, (-), L window up, L window down, R window up, R window down. When these wires get +12 and the oppisite operation wire is grounded, the window will go in the +12 direction. I appreciate the replies already, I hope this might clear somethings up. I'm thinking the module could be fried to some degree. Thanks again ------------- Save a Tree
Kill a Beaver
Posted By: danida
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 8:56 AM
Hi, I'm trying to install a car alarm/starter. I've never done it. I have a big problem understanding all the wires from the ignition and the start motor. There is any place that I can go and find the electrical diagram for dodge caravan 98. My car doesn't have powero door/locks. One more thing...what means 12 vd with a PLUS sign inside a circle. Thanks, David
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 10:51 AM
David,
Look here under wiring diagrams here for your vehicle, you should find what you need. TAKE YOUR TIME!! SOLDER AND HEAT SHRINK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS. Since you are interfacing all your vehicles primary circuits, disconnect the battery before beginning your install. Don't attempt this if you don't have the proper tools. There are a huge number of resources on this site that can help you get prepared to do it, USE THEM ALL. This can be a great experience, or a horrible regret on your part, it's all about your approach. If you don't have a digital multimeter, get one and read/learn how to use it to verify voltage on your vehicle's circuits, rather than a traditional or powered test probe. Your vehicle has certain aspects of its electrical system that are not forgiving when interrogated by a grounded or powered probe, your SRS/ airbag circuits for example. Get the wiring diagram and verify all the related wiring matches and their location so that you can interface the alarm/ starter module. Lastly, IF you feel queezy about biting in to doing this yourself, or you can't gain the proper info on the electrical, FEEL NO SHAME OR DEFEAT in taking it to a pro shop and having them install it. The down side to an improper install of this kind is very dangerous, costly,and can leave you literally stranded due to a dead battery, burned starter/ignition system. Having the guts is cool,but Wisdom is key.
I hope this helps getting you going in the right direction, and answers some of your questions.
Good Luck, ------------- elrock-SS
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 11:01 AM
The "12vd +" means 12 Volts DC or Direct Current, which is the control voltage and supply that the device, as well as your vehicle's electrical system operates on. The "+" is for Positive Voltage and is represented by the red jacketed posts on your vehicle's power sources, the battery and alternator.
------------- elrock-SS
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 11:11 AM
Coolcat,
Does the module click or buzz after the windows perform their movement? With what you lat mentioned I am thinking you might indeed have a bad/smoked unit. Has it blown the supply fuse at anytime during your attempts/ since you installed it?
------------- elrock-SS
Posted By: coolcat14
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 4:42 PM
Yes, when the windows stop you can hear the module clicking (probably just the relays inside it), signaling that the module is no longer trying to put the windows down. No, the fuse has not been blown yet. Do you know how the module works? In that I mean how the module knows to stop putting the windows down? Thanks for your replies so far! It has been a help. I'm considering just buying a new one from them to replace it, if you say yours works just fine. ------------- Save a Tree
Kill a Beaver
Posted By: coolcat14
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 4:43 PM
Yes, when the windows stop you can hear the module clicking (probably just the relays inside it), signaling that the module is no longer trying to put the windows down. No, the fuse has not been blown before. Do you know how the module works? In that I mean how the module knows to stop putting the windows down? Thanks for your replies so far! It has been a help. I'm considering just buying a new one from them to replace it, if you say yours works just fine. ------------- Save a Tree
Kill a Beaver
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 5:13 PM
There has to be a resistive triggered switch on each circuit, being on the up as well as down. These sense the sudden change in rate of current flow decrase, hence the increase in resistance and go open cutting the current and stopping the motor. They come in a number of forms, to include IC chip type. Getting to that level, I'd say just get another one. How long has it been since you purchased this one? I think they(Asianwolf) have a breif warranty, but I am not sure. They have them cheap enough, if buying another one is your only option.
I hope you have as good of luck with your new unit as I am with the one I have, They are sweet!
------------- elrock-SS
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 5:17 PM
There has to be a resistive triggered switch on each circuit, being on the up as well as down. These sense the sudden change in rate of current flow decrase, hence the increase in resistance and go open cutting the current and stopping the motor. They come in a number of forms, to include IC chip type. Getting to that level, I'd say just get another one. How long has it been since you purchased this one? I think they(Asianwolf) have a breif warranty, but I am not sure. They have them cheap enough, if buying another one is your only option.
I hope you have as good of luck with your new unit as I am with the one I have, They are a sweet option!
Hang in there and don't give up until you get em remote,OK?!!  ------------- elrock-SS
Posted By: coolcat14
Date Posted: March 18, 2004 at 5:43 PM
Thanks for your speedy replies. I was so excited when I found out you can get these kind of modules, I think its awesome to sit in your house on a hot day and roll your windows down to keep it cool in there. I've installed 3 remote starters now. My friend said it was easy and 1/2 installed the one in my truck. So it left me with finishing the job so I learned a lot. I installed another in a car. Then replaced the one in my truck for a 2-way. Wow , the range step up was awesome and now finishing the job with this module but having some trouble so came here. I'll probably run some more test to give it one more shot then just buy another one. I'm not aware of any other place selling a module that does 2 windows up and down? u? Also has your module ever put your windows down for "venting"? I didn't know how hot it had to get for this operation to happen. Thanks again! ------------- Save a Tree
Kill a Beaver
Posted By: danida
Date Posted: March 19, 2004 at 6:40 AM
Elrockss wrote:
David, Look here under wiring diagrams here for your vehicle, you should find what you need. TAKE YOUR TIME!! SOLDER AND HEAT SHRINK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS. Since you are interfacing all your vehicles primary circuits, disconnect the battery before beginning your install. Don't attempt this if you don't have the proper tools. There are a huge number of resources on this site that can help you get prepared to do it, USE THEM ALL. This can be a great experience, or a horrible regret on your part, it's all about your approach. If you don't have a digital multimeter, get one and read/learn how to use it to verify voltage on your vehicle's circuits, rather than a traditional or powered test probe. Your vehicle has certain aspects of its electrical system that are not forgiving when interrogated by a grounded or powered probe, your SRS/ airbag circuits for example. Get the wiring diagram and verify all the related wiring matches and their location so that you can interface the alarm/ starter module. Lastly, IF you feel queezy about biting in to doing this yourself, or you can't gain the proper info on the electrical, FEEL NO SHAME OR DEFEAT in taking it to a pro shop and having them install it. The down side to an improper install of this kind is very dangerous, costly,and can leave you literally stranded due to a dead battery, burned starter/ignition system. Having the guts is cool,but Wisdom is key.
I hope this helps getting you going in the right direction, and answers some of your questions.
Good Luck,
Posted By: danida
Date Posted: March 19, 2004 at 6:50 AM
Hi Elrockss, Thanks for answer me and believe me that I have no problem in give it to a professional to do it. I was just trying to do something diferent because I love electronics and I like to play with it. I know how to use a meter and I could check all volts and stuff, but , as you could see on my note, I'm not confortable touching and cutting star motor wires, air bags, etc. I couldn't find elect. diagrams. Any sugestions where to go? Thank you very much and when everyrhing is set and done I'll let you know. Thanks, David
Posted By: coolcat14
Date Posted: March 19, 2004 at 11:01 AM
David, I'm not trying to be rude, but thought I would let you know that you should start a new topic if your going to talk about another subject then the one that is being discused. No big deal, just thought I would let you know. Thanks Chris ------------- Save a Tree
Kill a Beaver
Posted By: danida
Date Posted: March 22, 2004 at 10:43 AM
Hi, Sorry. I'm knew here and I don't understand the system yet. Does it means that once I have response on one matter I can't follow up with more questions? Thnaks, David
Posted By: coolcat14
Date Posted: March 22, 2004 at 5:30 PM
No, you can follow up with more questions. What I'm saying is you need to start a new topic if you want to talk about something other than the current topic. For example you entered the topic "window rollup module not working" and then asked a question about your remote starter. Just click on the button on the top right of the page "new topic" to bring up a fresh page and type your question there. Hope this makes sense, Chris ------------- Save a Tree
Kill a Beaver
Posted By: coolcat14
Date Posted: March 24, 2004 at 6:48 PM
Back to my window problem, I finally figured out what was going on. My constant 12 wire was the problem. I ran a temp. wire from my battery to the module and it worked great. The thing is I tested the constant 12 wire and it really was constant!! So thenI tapped into the constant 12 going into my brain and the window module did the same thing (putting the windows down about 3 inches and stopping). So now I'm thinking I might have to run an isolated wire directly from my battery to the module. We'll see if I can find another way, I don't want to have to drill through the firewall if I don't have to! Thanks to those who replied, especailly Elrockss -Chris ------------- Save a Tree
Kill a Beaver
Posted By: Elrockss
Date Posted: March 25, 2004 at 2:05 AM
Chris,
If it would had a snake it would have bit us!!
I was thinking in the back of my mind this afternoon to have you check the power and ground for continuity or even a resistive joint, but it seemed those bases were well covered already??!
Nonetheless, an oversight. No matter how well you think through your troubleshooting, never leave out the obvious, right?!
Well, I am so glad you found the fault, and its simple to resolve.
You really shouldn't have to go directly to the battery, just hit one of the main hots that feed your fuse block circuits. With the module being fused itself and fairly excessible, you should be fine. That long of a power run for just that module really isn't needed, especially when you have a few open battery positions at the fuse block anyway. Keeping that wire as short as possible will also help prevent an unwanted voltage drop to the module.
I didn't do much, but glad to help!  ------------- elrock-SS
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