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Ground while remote start is on

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=29528
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 7:53 AM


Topic: Ground while remote start is on

Posted By: eblend
Subject: Ground while remote start is on
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 1:12 AM

Hello

I read a topic on this about passlock doing a search, and it was metnioned that if your remote start does not have this connection i cna still use my passlock bypass module, but i need some relays to make it work. I need to know the info on how to wire this up in my 2000 grand am. I got everything else, just not a wire on my remote start that would provide a - when on.

Thanks




Replies:

Posted By: sroth140
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 1:32 AM

hmm.... lets see, you could do some polarity floppin with a relay... i guess take an ignition wire to pin 86 on a relay, then ground 85 and 87 together, then take 30 to the wire you need the (-) for.

the ign will be the trigger to activate the relay and ground will go from 87 to 30.  pretty simple.



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MECP certified installer




Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 7:41 AM
just go out and use a 555l, hook it up and it learns the resistance by itself saving you the pain of hooking up two relays.

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2005 Toyota Corolla S
    1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!




Posted By: eblend
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 8:40 AM

daniel2002p wrote:

just go out and use a 555l, hook it up and it learns the resistance by itself saving you the pain of hooking up two relays.

i already have the bypass module for passlock, kinda same thing as the 555L, i just don't have a Negative when running wire on my actual remote start...that would be the wire that would activate the bypass when remote starting.

So if i hook it up like posted with that relay, it will burn on the bypass and then it would attempt to start correct? Thanks





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 8:49 AM
sroth140 wrote:

hmm.... lets see, you could do some polarity floppin with a relay... i guess take an ignition wire to pin 86 on a relay, then ground 85 and 87 together, then take 30 to the wire you need the (-) for.

the ign will be the trigger to activate the relay and ground will go from 87 to 30.  pretty simple.


You can not do this because the relay will not shut off current to the bypass module when the driver takes over remote start after they hit the brake. This means that there will be two Passlock signals going to the Passlock computer whenever ignition is on. You have to wire in a switch  in line of the ground( to pin 30 ) or ignition power ( at pin 86 ) to break the current after you insert the key into the cylinder. As you press the brake pedal, turn off the switch. This is a manual way of doing it, if you want an automatic way of doing this you will need to wire in more relays that will cut current from pin 30 of the first relay and have it triggered by the brake pedal or e-brake.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: eblend
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 8:53 AM
Velocity Motors wrote:

sroth140 wrote:

hmm.... lets see, you could do some polarity floppin with a relay... i guess take an ignition wire to pin 86 on a relay, then ground 85 and 87 together, then take 30 to the wire you need the (-) for.

the ign will be the trigger to activate the relay and ground will go from 87 to 30.  pretty simple.


You can not do this because the relay will not shut off current to the bypass module when the driver takes over remote start after they hit the break. THis means that there will be two Passlock signals going to the Passlock computer whenever ignition is on. You have to wire in a switch  in line of the ground( to pin 30 ) or ignition power ( at pin 86 ) to break the current after you insert the key into the cylinder. As you press the brake pedal, turn off the switch. This is a manual way of doing it, if you want an automatic way of doing this you will need to wire in more relays that will cut current from pin 30 of the first relay and have it triggered by the brake pedal or e-brake.


would you mind explaining how to wire these relays together? a diagram would be awsome. Not very good with relays and how they work, good with wireing them together though :)





Posted By: eblend
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 8:55 AM

someone on the another forum mentioned that i could use the orange wire in the diagram below

https://www.the12volt.com/images/starterkill.gif

but doesn't that negative dissapear once it tries to remote start?



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Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 9:20 AM
Only problem with this wire is that the module will always be on when the system is armed. This means that the Passlock is disabled when the alarm is armed and when it is set off, the wire is still (-) so someone can still steal the vehicle because the passlock bypass system is still engaged.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: godsegoizhuge
Date Posted: April 02, 2004 at 10:37 AM
I know on like the omega systems they have a 3rd ign. output that is like a (-) pulse.




Posted By: eblend
Date Posted: April 03, 2004 at 12:55 AM

Velocity Motors wrote:

Only problem with this wire is that the module will always be on when the system is armed. This means that the Passlock is disabled when the alarm is armed and when it is set off, the wire is still (-) so someone can still steal the vehicle because the passlock bypass system is still engaged.

but it will still remote start right? just would go without having passlock protection..i can live with that :)





Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: April 03, 2004 at 8:02 AM
First off, what kind of remote start are you using? Just want to double check make sure there is no wire to use since many have it labelled under different names.. Next if there really isn't anything, it's a simple 2 relay hookup no big deal.

Relay 1:

85: To ignition 1 wire (+) on remote start
86: To Ground
30: To 12volts positive (FUSED!)
87: To Ignition 1 wire in the car

Relay 2:

85: To ignition 1 wire (+) on remote start
86: To Ground
30: To Ground
87: To the (-) activation wire on your passlock bypass.


Very simple.. Good luck,

Mike




Posted By: eblend
Date Posted: April 04, 2004 at 3:46 PM

thanks alot! excellent, i think i will go with the relay setup so that i still have passlock protection instead of the whole bypass.

Just a quick question...these 2 relays don't directly connect to each other or does that 85: To ignition 1 wire (+) on remote start  wire the one that is connecting these 2 relays together correct?  And this will disable passlock module when car is not starting correct?  Also, i want to have starter kill...how do i mingle it with all these other relays....simple picture maybe? thanks alot for everything!

ohh and i am sure my alarm doesn't have this lead....as a mater of fact...there is a little note that says.."If you have factory imobilizer, then remote start feature won't work" and all the wires that are labled are all directed towards specific functions (doors, trunk, door triger and all that) I am sure its not on there, i have done a few alarm installs including one with immobilizer before, but not one when it didn't have that wire





Posted By: bmf1000d
Date Posted: April 04, 2004 at 3:57 PM
IF you intergrate this into the system you wont need a starter kill thats is what the passlock is for.

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"Big" Mike
Double Take
Fremont, Ne
remember to check all your wires with a dmm not a test light!!
i take no responsibilty whatsoever for the vailidty of the info nor consequences thereof




Posted By: eblend
Date Posted: April 04, 2004 at 4:58 PM

Okay cool, well here is a pic of the relays...thats correct right?

posted_image

and what do i do about this ....relay connecting wire...

i attached a picture of the instruction manual (can u tell its google translated? haha)

What do i do now that i don't have thar relay it shows at the bottom?

posted_image





Posted By: bmf1000d
Date Posted: April 04, 2004 at 5:20 PM

that should hook up the same as shown if you want to use that starter kill. Otherwise dont use that wire. The diagram is correct



-------------
"Big" Mike
Double Take
Fremont, Ne
remember to check all your wires with a dmm not a test light!!
i take no responsibilty whatsoever for the vailidty of the info nor consequences thereof




Posted By: eblend
Date Posted: April 04, 2004 at 7:22 PM
its possible to have them both hooked up thought correct? Thanks :)




Posted By: eblend
Date Posted: May 23, 2004 at 9:11 PM

hello. I finally got around to doing this...well i did it like is shown on the diagram above...but something is wrong..it seems that the module turns on...but car will not start..not even with the key. When i unplug the module the car starts fine with the key. Any ideas? i have not been able to make the module work yet...when i first insalled it..i turned on the car and everything was fine (with the key) but second time i tried to start with the key it wouldn't let me anymore...its like the module learned something and now turning the potentiometer isn't doing anything :(

Please help!





Posted By: revmatt99
Date Posted: May 25, 2004 at 9:39 PM
Actually.. it will bypass the passlock all the time. Which in itself isn't too bad i guess.. not what I wanted, but a HUGE downside it that even though it is a very small current drain it will eventually drain your battery.. believe me I had it happen.. if you dont run your vehicle for a few days or maybe a little longer.. or maybe in colder weather you will come out to a dead battery.. It happened to me and Hopefully you willlearn from my mistake and not do it this way.. good luck.. thanks




Posted By: revmatt99
Date Posted: May 25, 2004 at 9:40 PM
Actually.. it will bypass the passlock all the time. Which in itself isn't too bad i guess.. not what I wanted, but a HUGE downside it that even though it is a very small current drain it will eventually drain your battery.. believe me I had it happen.. if you dont run your vehicle for a few days or maybe a little longer.. or maybe in colder weather you will come out to a dead battery.. It happened to me and Hopefully you willlearn from my mistake and not do it this way.. good luck.. thanks





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