Ford/Merc. Double Diode Info?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=29767
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 9:26 AM
Topic: Ford/Merc. Double Diode Info?
Posted By: Dragorus
Subject: Ford/Merc. Double Diode Info?
Date Posted: April 05, 2004 at 10:36 PM
Would like to know the proper way to double diode isolate the door triggers??.....I have read the posts here and have seen two ways and am not sure which is the acurate way... 1= Twist the two ends together example = twist neg with neg and pos with pos.... 2= connect back to back= in series.. Which is the actual way to double diode....the first way does'nt seem logical because the 100ma backfeed will still go through untouched...The 2nd way however seems right beacause the first diode cuts in it half then the second diode eliminates it...... Please some one explane the propper way for me thanx sooooo much!!
Replies:
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 1:23 AM
If you use method one you are adding the blocking diode amperage up and if you are using method two you are not really doing anything at all as far as blocking any more current.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 6:08 AM
When I hear the term double diode isolate I was under the impression that meant to CUT the door trigger wire in the car and stick a diode inline on that wire. Then also put a diode on your wire and connect to the door trigger. I've never had to do either way so not positive on this one..
Mike
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 6:41 AM
I'm not sure why it's referred to as double diode isolation really, since you have to use 1 diode per separate trigger. The easiest way I've found to hook them up(assuming this is a late model Ford with multiple negative door triggers) is to twist the non-striped side of the diodes together, hook them up to the alarm's door trigger input, and hook each of the striped sides of a diode to one door trigger wire.
Putting a diode inline on the door trigger wire is necessary on vehicles where the door triggers go to a control module that shuts down some time after the vehicle is shut off, such as on late-model Fords or Chrysler minivans. In this case, you have to cut each door trigger wire on the vehicle and wire a diode inline with the striped side facing towards the doorpin and the alarm's input.
Posted By: Dragorus
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 7:21 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:
I'm not sure why it's referred to as double diode isolation really, since you have to use 1 diode per separate trigger. The easiest way I've found to hook them up(assuming this is a late model Ford with multiple negative door triggers) is to twist the non-striped side of the diodes together, hook them up to the alarm's door trigger input, and hook each of the striped sides of a diode to one door trigger wire.
Putting a diode inline on the door trigger wire is necessary on vehicles where the door triggers go to a control module that shuts down some time after the vehicle is shut off, such as on late-model Fords or Chrysler minivans. In this case, you have to cut each door trigger wire on the vehicle and wire a diode inline with the striped side facing towards the doorpin and the alarm's input.
Will this cause problems with the GEM module by doing this......Do the doors need to see that backfeed....??
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 7:37 AM
tell us what kind of car you have......we can tell you how to hook the doors ups............ ------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: Dragorus
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 9:47 AM
draasch wrote:
tell us what kind of car you have......we can tell you how to hook the doors ups............
1997 Merc. Mountaineer AWD
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 10:25 AM
i dont show you needing diodes on that car...
Make: Mercury
Model: Mountaineer
Year: 1997
Alarm
Constant 12 volts YELLOW (2) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts L GREEN/ PURPLE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter RED / L BLUE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light BLACK/ L BLUE (+) AT COURTESY LIGHT *
Trunk Pin Switch SAME AS ABOVE
Parking Lamp WHITE/ BLACK (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Power Lock PINK / YELLOW DRIVER KICK #201
Power Unlock PINK/L GREEN PANEL
* BLACK/ L BLUE (+) Wire Also Located At Interior Lamp Switch. #201- See Negative Pulse Door Lock Diagram.
------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: Dragorus
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 12:21 PM
draasch wrote:
i dont show you needing diodes on that car...
Make: Mercury
Model: Mountaineer
Year: 1997
Alarm
Constant 12 volts YELLOW (2) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts L GREEN/ PURPLE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter RED / L BLUE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light BLACK/ L BLUE (+) AT COURTESY LIGHT *
Trunk Pin Switch SAME AS ABOVE
Parking Lamp WHITE/ BLACK (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Power Lock PINK / YELLOW DRIVER KICK #201
Power Unlock PINK/L GREEN PANEL
* BLACK/ L BLUE (+) Wire Also Located At Interior Lamp Switch. #201- See Negative Pulse Door Lock Diagram.
Thats because your showing the domelight as the door trigger which isn't good due to domelight delay & Timeout.......With this vehicle you have to go to door triggers for propper operation.....
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 12:52 PM
Driver’s front: yellow/blk
Driver’s rear: Lt GREEN/ YELLOW
Passenger’s front: grey/red
Passenger’s rear: pink/blue
Lift gate: WHITE/ pink
All wires are neg. and can be found at the module. Pins #4 5 6 7 8
Pin 4 is for the lift gate and 5-8 are the doors.
If you have a hood or trunk wire, wire it up to the lift gate. The rest you will need to diode isolate.
------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: Dragorus
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 2:14 PM
draasch wrote:
Driver’s front: yellow/blk
Driver’s rear: Lt GREEN/ YELLOW
Passenger’s front: grey/red
Passenger’s rear: pink/blue
Lift gate: WHITE/ pink
All wires are neg. and can be found at the module. Pins #4 5 6 7 8
Pin 4 is for the lift gate and 5-8 are the doors.
If you have a hood or trunk wire, wire it up to the lift gate. The rest you will need to diode isolate.
k...Thanx alot
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 3:09 PM
Also, I don't think the Mountaineer has a GEM that shuts down, so doing the inline diode thing I mentioned earlier shouldn't be needed. The reason for those diodes was, when the GEM shuts down it causes a voltage change that can cause a false trigger of the alarm; the diodes block that from happening.
Posted By: Dragorus
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 3:28 PM
chriswallace187 wrote:
Also, I don't think the Mountaineer has a GEM that shuts down, so doing the inline diode thing I mentioned earlier shouldn't be needed. The reason for those diodes was, when the GEM shuts down it causes a voltage change that can cause a false trigger of the alarm; the diodes block that from happening.
I have confirmed that it is shutting down....and backfeeding a slight ground over all 5 door lock wires!
Posted By: Dragorus
Date Posted: April 06, 2004 at 3:31 PM
Also I did the 5 wires with diodes & with the relay in line of the alarm and works flawlessly now....Thanx all Now the backfeed is not strong enough to switch the relay only when you open the door it switches to ground now.......Thanx for the person that emailed me the diagram......
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