APS-996a in 98 Expedition

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=31393
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 4:47 PM

Topic: APS-996a in 98 Expedition

Posted By: ErickSaint
Subject: APS-996a in 98 Expedition
Date Posted: May 01, 2004 at 3:42 PM

My bud posted this in General I think, but I thought we would get a better response here.

We just installed a 996a in his expedition. We followed a wire diagram from Directed that I had asked for here earlier in the week. Everything works as it should except once he got in and drove it a while we noticed that upon acceleration the "Door Ajar" light comes on, and if you put on the brakes to come to a stop the doors try to lock when you let off the brake.

All these problems seem to be related to the keyless module which I had tapped for the door trigger as well as the lock/unlock. Is it possible something here needs to be diode isolated? There was no reference to this on the directed wire diagram. Do the door light and the locking all have something to do with the keyless module wires being tapped? Or is there some programming in the 996a that needs to be changed?

Anybody ever run into this problem before? If so where should we be looking?

Thanks.

Erick

Replies:

Posted By: ranquist
Date Posted: May 01, 2004 at 5:04 PM

hi, did you use t-tap or scochlocks to tie in to these circuits. If you did get rid of them. Take off some of the plastic from wire split the copper strans so as to create a hole weave the wire from the unit into the hole. either soider or rubber tape it.

Posted By: ErickSaint
Date Posted: May 01, 2004 at 7:00 PM

no scothlocks at all...everything was soldered into the existing wire by stripping about 1/2" from the wire needed and wrapping the alarm wire to it and soldering.

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 02, 2004 at 9:22 AM

When you put the unit back up into the dash, this could have loosened something o might be touching ground somewhere. Take the unit down from where you had it and then go for a test drive to see if the problem occurs while the unit is not mounted up under the dash. Post your results.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: ErickSaint
Date Posted: May 02, 2004 at 2:27 PM

Just to be clear which unit are you referring to? The alarm module or the keyless module? I did take the keyless module out at well so that i could unplug the harnesses and make the wires more accesible.

I will pull everything out some time this week. I did tape the hell out of all of my soldered connections, but I will double check everything.

Posted By: relicwolf72
Date Posted: May 03, 2004 at 8:04 PM

OK, today we pulled the unit and it was still giving the problems even with the alarm module disconnected completely. I found that I had the door trigger wired to the instant trigger rather than the dedicated door trigger. When I moved it to the door trigger input, the problem with the "Door Ajar" light went away.

There was still a problem with the doors locking when the brake was put on. I unplugged the harnesses from the keyless module and the problem has gone away as well. It doesn't seem to have any ill effects with the keyless module disconnected. Not sure if this is supposed to work this way or not. There was no mention anywhere of keeping the module disconnected afer the alarm install...any input on this?

-------------
drl

Posted By: tjdurham
Date Posted: May 04, 2004 at 12:29 AM

did you use a anti grind or starter kill relay if so make sure that you have 85 going to true ignition not jumped to start cause if it is hooked to start you will get different things happening like winshield wipers not working and windows not rolling down all kinds of stuff so try that

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tj

Posted By: ErickSaint
Date Posted: May 04, 2004 at 1:00 PM

Actually at this point we have not added the starter kill relay. Since the starter kill for the 996 needs the alarm box to operate, we have not installed it yet. That way if the box was bad we wouldn't have to reverse the install of the starter kill. According to the manual if the alarm box is disconnected the car will not start. That is generally the last thing that I install.

Posted By: bmf1000d
Date Posted: May 04, 2004 at 1:08 PM

the doors have a automatic locking when the brake is pressed it usally wait untill the car is put into gear before locking the doors i will do some resarch and see if you can maunal shut down that.

-------------
"Big" Mike
Double Take
Fremont, Ne
remember to check all your wires with a dmm not a test light!!
i take no responsibilty whatsoever for the vailidty of the info nor consequences thereof

Posted By: ErickSaint
Date Posted: May 04, 2004 at 1:19 PM

Yeah when I unplugged the keyless module he told me he lost that option. He said it used to lock the doors when he got up to like 25 MPH or something like that. We just programmed the alarm to lock and unlock with the ignition.

But with the module plugged in it was still trying to lock the doors everytime he steps on the brake. Even without the alarm hooked up. So I'm not sure what was up. The battery had died on us at one point and we needed to jump it, but there is nothing in the Haynes book about having to reset anything when the battery dies or is changed.

Posted By: bmf1000d
Date Posted: May 04, 2004 at 1:26 PM

ok to make sure you have the right wires hooked up here is what i have for that vehicle

Also when you jumped the car it could have shorted something in the brain..

IF it did have keyless then it is a postive door locks

Ford

Expedition

1997-2003

Remote Starter Wiring Colors and Notes
Function	Vehicle Color	Location
Start:	RED / L BLUE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
Ignition #1:	D BLUE/GREEN	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #2:	RED / BLACK	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #3:	GRAY / YELLOW	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS***
Accessory:	BLACK/ L GREEN	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Brake Light:	L GREEN (+)	AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Tach Signal:	WHITE/ PINK	AT POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE *
Parking Lights:	BROWN (+)	AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Headlights:	RED / YELLOW (+)	AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
OEM Alarm Disarm:	D GREEN/ PURPLE (-)	DRIVER KICK PANEL
OEM Alarm Arm:	N/A
Diesel Glow Plug:
Clutch Bypass Wire:
Notes:	* Ignition wires may be small awg. This Vehicle May Be Equipped With Ford's PATS Anti-Theft System. Use Univiversal Alarm Bypass Module or See Installation Note #144 - Bypassing Transponder Theft Systems. Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Located On Passenger Side Of Engine Compartment On Passenger Wheelwell. **All DesignTech remote starters except the 2xx22 have an ignition 3 output - it is the WHITE/ black in the 'control harness.' This wire will be used to control the bypass module, if needed. (No Diode Isolation is required.)

Ford

Expedition

1997-2003

Alarm and Keyless Entry Wiring Colors and Notes
Function	Vehicle Color	Location
Constant +12 Volts:	YELLOW (2), ORG/YEL &	L GREEN/ PURPLE (2) IGN. SW. HARNESS
Starter Kill:	RED / L BLUE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
Ignition +12 Volts:	D BLUE/GREEN	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Lights/Superv:	BLACK/ L BLUE (+)	PASSENGER KICK PANEL
OEM Horn:	D BLUE (-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Power Lock:	PINK / YELLOW	DRIVER'S KICK PANEL ***
Power Unlock:	PINK/L GREEN	DRIVER'S KICK PANEL ***
Trunk Release:	N/A
Alarm Input Wire:	BLACK/ L BLUE (+)	PASSENGER KICK PANEL
Notes:	*** Without OEM Keyless Entry See Note #203 - Reverse Polarity Door Lock Diagram, With OEM Keyless See Note #202 - Positive Pulse Door Lock Diagram. Note: 2003 wire colors and locations for door lock may be vary

Posted By: ErickSaint
Date Posted: May 04, 2004 at 2:26 PM

Interesting, I used a Directed wire chart I requested on here last week and it shows the same color wires, but says they are negative.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=31064