Passlock II Bypass Help

V.M. gave me a link (https://www.the12volt.com/downloads/file.asp?ID=250) to a Passlock 11 bypass relay method. I have a couple of questions/confirmations about it though.

1)Will this diagram work on a 1999 Tahoe? If so, then I have the following questions –

The drawing shows what appears to be a resistor coming of the left hand relays 86 pin "To ground when running from car starter (-)". Is this a resistor, if not what is it? Does this wire just go to any ground, or is there a special starter ground?

Also just to confirm, I place my matched resistor(s) on the ORANGE / black wire where it says "resistor or trimpot" right? And when adding up resistors, they go end to end right (series)?

Thanks,
Steve

HEY ,  FORGET THE RESISTORS, AND RELAYS.....  JUST GO AND BUY A DEI PASSLOCK 1AND2 BYPASS FROM YOUR LOCAL DEI DEALER.

  MODEL:  555L  PROBLEM SOLVED. ITS ALSO EASY TO INSTALL

I already bought one by bypass module, but it wasnt a DEI.  Do you remember how much the DEI's module costs?  Last night I set up the above mentioned relays, and now am waiting to here back on my "ground while starting" wire.

Steve

My remote starter (https://www.commandoalarms.com/comboinstall.html) does not have a unique wire for ground while remote starting.  Will this relay system work for me?  And if so, what diode do I use?  I found the DEI 555L for $30, so if this wont work, I'll just order that.

Steve

Steve,

You say your remote starter doesn't have the correct output?  What you're looking for is a wire that outputs a ground whenever the remote starter is active.....not just while cranking, but the WHOLE time the remote start is turned on.  Most any decent, modern remote start should have such a wire.

At my job, we use Audiovox's AS-GM4, which is just as easy to use as the DEI 555L.  The AS-GM4 automatically "learns" the car's R-code just like the 555L, and they seem to be reliable.  Just another option for you.

I can barely read that Passlock bypass diagram you link to, but it looks to be about right.  Do you know how to measure the car's R-code with a multimeter?  If not, I'll tell you.

You can also permanently bypass Passlock forever by using just plain resistors, no relays or anything else.  One large downside to this is that the car is easier to steal.  More importantly, though, if you use resistors that are slightly off, the car will not start at all, and you'll be stuck.  A bypass module (or the relay setup) only functions during remote start....meaning that if there's a problem, you can still start the car with your key and get to work.

You also asked if resistors should be placed in series (strung end-to-end) or in parallel (all spliced alongside one another).  Well, that depends.  I'll explain.

Let's say you have a handful of 100-ohm resistors, for discussion's sake.  And remember that more ohms=more resistance.  If you were to put two of those resistors in parallel, you'd end up at 50 ohms.  If you put two of them in series, you'd have 200 ohms. 

 Now, let's say you want 150 ohms; how do you do that?  Easy.  Place two of the resistors in parallel, which is 50 ohms.  Place another resistor in SERIES with that pair.  50 ohms (the first pair, twisted together) + 100 ohms (the one single one placed in series)= 150 ohms total.

Based on what size resistors you have on hand, and what resistance your car requires, will influence your decision of whether to put the resistors in parallel, series, or some combination of both.  You can engineer such a setup either in your head or on paper, but in any event, rig them up in a temporary fashion and verify the reading with your meter, before making a permanent installation.

I had some great sucess today!!!  An a earlier thread I started with my problems, Chris suggested that I use the "Stop 'N Go" feature to trouble test my remote start.  So after trying this feature, and having it not work, I when back to the drawing board.  I checked all connections, and everything seemed to be fine.  I had not hooked up the orange accessory wire as I didnt care about AC or heater.  Well, I figured, what the heck, its the only wire not hooked up, so why not.  Well, this was the trick.  I guess this wire does MUCH more then just AC and heat.  I was able to engage the stop n go, and pull the key out while the car was still running.

I then set the resistance on my passkey ii module, and it remote started twice, then no more.  I tested the resistance again, and it had changed from 590 to 1380.  I reset the bypass but it still want autostart.  Is there any hope with this module, or should I just go ahead and order a "smarter" module?

Also Chris mentioned bypassing the passkey, can some one tell me where in line I would place the resistors to do this?

Steve

Steve 

We sell a learning bypass module that will learn the changing resistances of the Passlock II systems. We have installed lots of these and have not had a single return from any of our customers. They are $ 45.00 for these but will learn your resistance even as it changes with heat and cold. Let me know if you want more information on this by emailing us at velocity@valleycable.com

Holly crap you guys are talking about passlock 1 and 2 and passkey, lets first start by saying that this vehicle has got passlock 2 and yes the orange wire that you didn't energize is very important in the remote start sequence, passlock actually energizes at the acc position of start, you're best bet is to do what everyone else says to do and use the most reliable means of integrating into the passlock system, via dei'5 555l passlock module, what happens to just plain resistors when they are sublect to extreme hot or cold temp conditions ????  the resistance value changes and it may change enough to seriously change the rcode value on the passlock system giving you a no start situation.

the simplest way to defeat passlock being passlock 1 or 2 is while the vehicle is running cut the rcode wire this now keeps the last known resistance value stored in the ecm of the vehicle  BUT the security light will always be on, and you could end up with other problems, just do it the correct way the first time and use a proper passlock module, if you make the passlock system go into complete failure you're now dealing with an expensive dealer bill to repair it.

Do it right or dont do it at all

Terry

I agree with Terry here; get the proper, self-learning module.

The shop I work at used to do a lot of them by permanently bypassing the Passlock with just plain resistors.  Whenever the weather changes, the cars come back, often on the back of a tow truck.  Just had to fix a 2000 Monte Carlo for this yesterday.

Steve, do one of three things.  1.  Go to your nearest store and pick up a DEI 555L.  2.  E-mail me and I'll sell you an Audiovox AS-GM4.  3.  Order Jeff's self-learning piece.  Any of those three will work for you.

Also, just a curious question---if you don't care about operating the car's climate controls, why on earth would you be installing a remote start?

To look cool!!!  Duh!  Actually, I was looking forward to the climate control features, but have been installing the alarm in order of importance, with all the security stuff first, then R.S., then cliamte stuff.  Then Im going to install a 2nd siren and battery backup, and maybe a 2nd motion sensor in the back of the car. 
Its taken me a couple of months to get this far (2 weeks in the shop for body work due to a not at fault accident) but Im going to keep plugging at it.  I will order the module from someone tommorow.  Its not the money, I just kept thinking I could get mine to work ;-(

Thanks all for your help and suggestions.  Hopefully when I get the new module, everything will work for me.

Steve,

I sure don't blame you for wanting your existing module to work!  I know how you feel....it's not like a new module would be that expensive....but you already paid good money for the one you have, and it would be wasteful to throw it away.  Let's try one more time to go over it.  I'll try to lightly touch on everything you need to know.  Also, even though I prefer the self-learning modules.....even if your module should fail, you will still be able to start the vehicle with the key.... so at least you're not going to get stranded.

1.  Are you sure you have the correct Passlock wires?  I believe there are actually three yellows in the main steering column harness---a thick one for the starter, and two smaller, identical yellow ones.  Here's how to find the correct yellow wire.

Locate the bundle of wires coming down from the steering column, and follow it until all the wires go into a large, black rectangular plug.  On the middle row, about three pins in from the side, is the ORANGE / black Passlock ground wire.  Now, move over sideways until you're three pins over from the OTHER side of the plug, and there's a thin yellow wire there; this is the Passlock resistance (or R-code) wire.  You'll notice that on the top (or bottom?) row there is another yellow wire in the middle; this is NOT the one you want.  If I'm not being clear, let me know.

2.  I'll go over the proper procedure for measuring the car's R-code.  I follow the method outlined in the instructions for Audiovox's AS-PASS III.  (It's a user-adjusted module like yours; I hate using it, but the instructions are very good.)

A.  Strip some insulation off the ORANGE / black Passlock ground wire (without cutting it).  Cut the yellow R-code wire in half; strip both ends of it.  Set your multimeter to Ohms and get ready.  Attach one meter lead to the ORANGE / black, and the other lead to the yellow R-code wire, on the side that comes out of the steering column.  (For right now, ignore the other half of the yellow wire; the one going down into the black plug.)

B.  Set the parking brake.  Turn the key forward just a little tiny bit, and place the car in Reverse.  (Since the car won't even attempt to start while in Reverse, no matter what you do, you won't be able to accidentally cause the Passlock system to "lock" itself up.)  As a safety precaution, though, keep your left hand on the brake pedal just in case.

C.  With your right hand, turn the key to Start and release.  Wait a second or two, and record the reading on your meter.  (I'm sure you know this, but don't forget the symbols that will pop up on the meter's display:  2.0k means 2000 ohms......hey, we're all human, and I've made the mistake before.)

D.  Turn the key backward as far as it will go (while leaving the car in Reverse).  Take your two meter leads and switch them around.  Turn the key to Start again and release; record your meter reading again.

E.  Of those two meter readings you took, the lower reading is the correct one.  Now's the time to follow the instructions included with your module to set its resistance properly.  Passlock II will tolerate a 5% difference up or down----using a calculator, multiply your meter reading by .95 and by 1.05; these are your minimum and maximum settings you can use on your module.  Ideally, though, you want to get it as close as possible.

3.  Of course, you'll be connecting the two halves of the cut-in-half yellow R-code wire to your module.  It's a common mistake to get the two wires hooked up backwards, so double check.  In your module's instructions, you'll see that one wire goes to the ignition switch side, the other goes to the BCM side (which is the side going to that black rectangular plug).  Even if you've already checked ten times, go check again and make sure you got them right.

4.  You should make sure your module is being powered up properly.  It should have connections for constant power, chassis ground, ignition, and "ground while remote start is on" coming from the remote start unit.  Let's go over these four connections. 

A. Constant:  Obviously, you know what constant power is...just make sure the fuse is good. 

B.  Chassis ground:  Ideally, you'd want to tie the module's ground wire into the ORANGE / black at the column, even though the module's instructions often don't say so.  It is best that the module "sees" the exact same ground as the factory key cylinder.  But a regular ground at chassis metal is also acceptable....I usually use the factory 7mm bolt by the parking brake release.

C.  Ignition:  This goes to the car's pink ignition wire.  Or tie it into your remote start's "ignition 1" output, becuase that's connected to the pink anyway...whichever is more convenient.

D.  "Ground while remote start is on":  Every remote-start manufacturer seems to have a different name for this wire, so you'll have to read the instructions closely.  You're looking for a wire that puts out a ground just before the remote start process kicks in, and keeps on putting out ground until after the remote start is shut down---whether you shut it down by remote, or opening the hood, or stepping on the brake, or just plain getting in the car and driving away.  This is the wire that "tells" your bypass module:  "Hey, I'm about to start the car.  Wake up and get that Passlock bypassed for me, okay?"  If your remote start doesn't have such an output, you're not totally screwed, but you're going to need a couple of relays and some more labor.

HINT:  Put your hand on your bypass module, and activate the remote start.  You should feel/hear the relay(s) inside click on just before the car tries to start.  Then, shut the remote start down....a couple of seconds later, you should feel/hear it click off.

Thanks again Chris.  I tried your tips but still no luck.  When the temp got to be 100 degrees, I said enough.  I went to Best Buy and got the 555L (Good Guys also sells it) for $50.00  Twenty minute later I was remote starting!!!! 

I wired a couple of the wires perhaps not right on accident, but its working.  I used the cars ground for both the Passlock ground wire and the Ground while remote start is on.  The only wire I could find that resembled the (-) output from the brain was an optional wire for a vacuum switch for auto sensing.   I figured I would try the cars ground first and its working.  The passlock ground was an accident, but I guess the passlocks ground is the same as the whole car.

I think Im done.  Hopefully others can find this thread in the future and take advantage of all the good tips and ideas here.  (Mainly just get a "smart bypass module")

Thanks All!

Steve