Print Page | Close Window

2002 4Runnner

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=3231
Printed Date: May 06, 2025 at 3:03 AM


Topic: 2002 4Runnner

Posted By: ANNAMAL
Subject: 2002 4Runnner
Date Posted: August 31, 2002 at 9:53 PM

I was wondering if anyone could tell me what type of door and window system there is on a 2002 Toyota 4Runner? Thanks in advance.

-------------
ANNAMAL RULES



Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: August 31, 2002 at 10:16 PM

|     DOOR TRIGGER|lt. GREEN/ black     |-  |behind drivers side junction block in a 13 pin plug  |

|  LF WINDOW UP/DN|lt. green - blu/yel |A  |inside drivers door         |
|  RF WINDOW UP/DN|lt. green - blu/yel |A  |inside passenger door       |
|  LR WINDOW UP/DN|RED / blue - RED / yel  |A  |drivers kick panel          |
|  RR WINDOW UP/DN|yellow -  green     |A  |drivers kick panel          |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE|blue/white - white  |A  |at switch or motor          |

The window system is a rest at ground system.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 01, 2002 at 7:50 AM

Power lock is BROWN / white, negative trigger.  You'll find it in either kick panel (coming in from the door harness), or in a plug on the front of the fuse box, just below the fuses.  You test this wire by twisting the key in the door, NOT by operating the "Lock" button on the door panel.

All-doors unlock is GREEN/ YELLOW, negative trigger.  It's found in the passenger's kick or at the fuse box.  Twist the key in the passenger's door to test.

I can't remember the wire color right now, but you can also get two-stage "driver's priority" unlocking in this truck.  Find the wire that shows a negative trigger while you twist the driver's door key to the "unlock" position.  One pulse to this wire will unlock the driver's door; a second pulse will unlock them all.  You'll find this wire in the driver's kick or at the fuse box.

The DEI techsheets I use also state that you must pulse the "unlock detection wire" while unlocking the doors.  This wire will show a negative the whole time the door is unlocked, and it'll go dead after you lock the door.  The passenger's detection wire is blue / YELLOW, in the passenger's kick or at the fuse box.  I forget the color for the driver's door, but it's going to be in the driver's kick or at the fuse box.  You would want to split your alarm's unlock output with a pair of diodes; one goes to the normal unlock wire, and the other to the "unlock detection wire."

NOTE:  Despite what DEI says, I don't believe you have to worry about the unlock detection wires on a 4Runner.  I have done about two dozen 2002 4Runners so far, I've NEVER hooked up the to the detection wires, and not one of them has come back.

Also, how would you like to roll your tailgate window up or down with no special parts?  All you need is a relay or two, and extra auxillary outputs from your alarm.

At the plug in the fuse box where those door lock wires are, locate a red wire, and a RED / black one.  Those are simple negative-trigger wires that will roll the window down or up.  I forget which wire does which, but you can easily test this by operating the dashboard switch while the ignition is on.

Here's how to set up your relay:

85:  Two connections go to 85; the auxillary output of your alarm, AND the car's red or RED / black window control wire.

86: 12V+ constant (fused)

87: 12V+ constant (fused)

87a: empty

30:  goes to the car's main BLACK/ red or BLACK / YELLOW ignition wire, found at the ignition switch.  (I believe it's the BLACK / YELLOW, but just make a temporary connection until you are sure.  If the window doesn't go down, move to the other wire.)

NOTE:  Many "trunk pop" channels from car alarms only put out a one-second timed output, which won't work well.  Since the window takes a good four seconds to roll down, you need an alarm channel that puts out a negative pulse for the whole time you are pressing the button on the remote.

NOTE:  When you press your remote button to roll down the rear window, the dashboard warning lights, seatbelt buzzer, and heater fan will come on.  This perfectly normal, and it will all stop as soon as you release the button.

NOTE:  With my wiring method, the dashboard up/down switch will now function at all times, even if the car's key has been removed.  If this is undesirable, insert a small diode between terminal 85, and the car's red or RED / black wire.  (I always forget which way the diode goes; try it both ways until it works properly.)

P.S.  The instructions I've given you will only move the tailgate window in one direction, up OR down ( your choice, depending on whether you use the red or RED / black wire).  If you want it to go in both directions, you'll need another unused channel from your alarm, and another relay.  Set up the second relay exactly as the first, and tie the 85 into the OTHER of the red or RED / black wires. 

(Remember, there's no safety protection with my setup.  Only roll the window up by remote if you can look at the car, to make sure no one's arm is in there.)

As you probably know, the tailgate simply unlocks with all the other doors; no need to worry about that.






Print Page | Close Window