Remote start won’t work without key
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=33002
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 11:16 PM
Topic: Remote start won’t work without key
Posted By: godown
Subject: Remote start won’t work without key
Date Posted: May 30, 2004 at 8:36 PM
I'm installing an old Code Alarm Remote Start in a 1990 Cadillac Eldorado. The only way it will work is if the key is in the ignition. Is this because of the security feature built in the key? Please help! Also, I used the wiring diagram from this site, but some of the wire colors don't match mine. For instance, it said that the purple wire is the starter, when it's a fat yellow wire in my car.
Replies:
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: May 30, 2004 at 8:44 PM
is there a black chip in the blade of the key????
Make: Cadillac
Model: Eldorado
Year: 1990-91
This Database Was Last Updated On: 4/7/2004
Index #: 7807
Alarm
Constant 12 volts RED / WHITE AND RED (3) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts PINK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light WHITE (-) ]IN SWITCH OR AT COURTESY LIGHT
Trunk Pin Switch DARK GREEN (-) BODY CONTROL MODULE
Parking Lamp BROWN (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Power Lock LIGHT BLUE DRIVER KICK #202
Power Unlock BLACK PANEL
#202- See Positive Pulse Door Lock Diagram.
Remote Start
Tach Signal WHITE AT DISTRIBUTOR
Ignition #2 DARK BLUE/WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS *
Ignition #3 ORANGE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS *
Accessory BROWN IGNITION HARNESS
Neutral Safety ORANGE / BLACK (-) AT GEAR SELECT SWITCH
Brake Light LIGHT BLUE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Light LIGHT GREEN (+) AT GEAR SELECT SWITCH
Rear Window Defrost
* There Are 4 Ignitions Total To Be Powered By Remote Start Unit. Ignition #1- PINK (Primary Ignition). Ignition #2- D BLUE/WHITE (Engine Control Module). Ingition #3- ORANGE (Heat/Ac). Ignition #4- PURPLE / WHITE (Heat/Ac). #235- See Powering Extra Ignitions Diagram.
------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: godown
Date Posted: May 30, 2004 at 9:09 PM
WOW! That was fast! I'm going to go try it right now. Thanks!
Posted By: godown
Date Posted: May 30, 2004 at 9:47 PM
Still not working. I thought for sure I had everything hooked-up right, but nope! Any other ideas?
Posted By: Manoftools
Date Posted: May 30, 2004 at 9:51 PM
There is probably a black chip on your key. You need to find the resistance of this key and wire a resistor into a relay. The wires you tap into are in an orange coating, there are two very thin guage white wires.
Posted By: godown
Date Posted: May 30, 2004 at 9:58 PM
Here's what I have comming out of the Code Alarm. It's a CSM-3 (ancient, I know) 1&2. Red (12V Constant) 3. Black (Ground) 4. Lt. Green (Unlock Output) 5. White (Safety Input to Brake) 6. Dk. Green (Hood Switch) 7. Brown (Door Input+) 8. Pink (Door Input -) 9. Gray/Black (Tach) 10. WHITE/ Red (Crank Output) 11. Lt Blue (Locks) 12. Yellow (Heater/ACC Output) 13. Yellow/White (Heater/ACC Feed) 14. Lt Blue/Black (Ignition Output+) 15. Orange (Parking Light Output) 16. ORANGE / Black (Parking Light Polarity) 17. Tan (Trunk-) 18. Purple (Active Out/Dome) and yes, it does have the security chip in the key. (forgot to answer that earlier)
Posted By: godown
Date Posted: May 30, 2004 at 10:01 PM
Manoftools wrote:
There is probably a black chip on your key. You need to find the resistance of this key and wire a resistor into a relay. The wires you tap into are in an orange coating, there are two very thin guage white wires.
Oh Yeah. I just remembered seeing something like that in the Bonneville I took it out of! Thanks!
Posted By: Manoftools
Date Posted: May 30, 2004 at 11:03 PM
I forgot to attach the diagram in my previous post. This will show you how to wire the relay. 
Posted By: godown
Date Posted: May 31, 2004 at 12:42 AM
Manoftools wrote:
I forgot to attach the diagram in my previous post. This will show you how to wire the relay. 
It's not showing up for me.
Posted By: Teamrf
Date Posted: May 31, 2004 at 5:25 PM
If there is a black chip on the key you are going to have to bypass that chip. Also 4 ignition wires need to be powered to successfully start the vehicle via the remote. ------------- ~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.
Posted By: godown
Date Posted: May 31, 2004 at 7:53 PM
Teamrf wrote:
If there is a black chip on the key you are going to have to bypass that chip. Also 4 ignition wires need to be powered to successfully start the vehicle via the remote.
Yes, it has the chip in the key. I took the unit out of my old car (it was in it when i got it). It had a resistor at the end of the two white wires in the orange installation, but no relay was hooked up to it and it worked fine in that car. I went and got the resistor out of that car and tried it in my Caddy, and it didn't work. Also, I ran the trunk wire all the way to the trunk and hooked it up to the black wire on the trunk release, but it doesn't work either. I tested the wire from the remote start, and it IS sending a ground when I hit the switch. Thanks to everybody trying to help. Believe it or not, I've installed a few alarms in my day, and never had this much damn trouble. I'm about to say screw it, and just use it for the keyless entry!
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: May 31, 2004 at 9:46 PM
you will need to bypass the VATS system.... ------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: May 31, 2004 at 10:42 PM
[/QUOTE]
I went and got the resistor out of that car and tried it in my Caddy, and it didn't work.
[/QUOTE]
The chip you have in your key is different resistance then the one in the other car. ------------- Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: May 31, 2004 at 11:03 PM
godown wrote:
I went and got the resistor out of that car and tried it in my Caddy, and it didn't work.
You need to measure the resistance in the key for your current vehicle. It will most likely be a different value than the resistor in your old car. You can hook it up the same way as the old car but the resistance has to be correct. If you just wire it across the 2 wires as it was before then you will be defeating the security of the key resistance. In other words, any key cut the same as yours will work in the ignition even one without the resistor pill in the key shaft. This is acceptable but it is just one less security feature that your vehicle will have once it has been permantly bypassed. If you wish to maintain the security feature and bypass the key resistance only during a remote start attempt then follow the diagram below using a relay.
GM V.A.T.S. Bypass Diagram
godown wrote:
Also, I ran the trunk wire all the way to the trunk and hooked it up to the black wire on the trunk release, but it doesn't work either. I tested the wire from the remote start, and it IS sending a ground when I hit the switch.
Your better off just running it to the push button switch up front (glove box, most likely). You should use a relay that makes a good solid connection to ground when you pulse it from the alarm's trunk output. The output itself is probably not strong enough to trigger the opening of the trunk. The output has a low current output capable of driving a relay. Follow the first diagram for a NEGATIVE trigger trunk pop relay.
Negative Trunk Pop Diagram
Have fun and good luck. Steve 
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 01, 2004 at 8:16 PM
^^^^ That is what I meant.
-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
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