2000 nissan sentra/door trigger

Hello room,

I'm here in Chicago and have the 550esp viper almost complete. I'm at the door trigger and have the red wire at the module that controls the driver door and the RED / white covering the pass door as well as the other doors. My question is that can you make a y connection without diodes or is it needed. If so which diode can I use? The RED / white was showing all doors but after I tapped into it, it only covered driver and driver rear. I'm guessing that the red in the module is needed in order to work properly. I'm only here for another day and half. Please let me know as soon as possible.

Thankyou!

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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!

Whats up Sound Pressure.. sounds like you have two door trigger, one for the left 2 doors and one for the right 2 doors... or in most cases, one for the driver, one for the other 3 doors. How many ever you have, they have to be isolated with a diode. If they all ran from one trigger wire, you would be all good, but it sounds like you have multiple door triggers. Hope this helps.

oh yeah.. 1 amp diodes are good enough.

Good deal thanks guys,

Hopefully I don't run into any other problems. I will only be here another day. But I appreciate the help. I got the diodes. I should be good to go. Oh since I did not install the remote start on the car when I do if it has an immobilizer it should not turn on, but if I can avoid that all together what does this module look like? Where can it be found? Just incase.

Thanks,

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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!

Im assuming your talking about the immobilizer?? If so, im not sure about the viper. I know Clifford has a wireless Immobilizer. Some may not be wireless and just part of the alarm (on-board). In any case, you not hooking up the remote start shouldnt have any effect. Good Luck

A little problem that I ran into.

I checked all wires, even the wires on the plug running into the alarm, all good and powered. Problem, when pressing number 3 on the remote no activation on the alarm brain. Relays do not attempt to energize or click. They all have power, all grounds that have to be connected for remote start are good. Can the brain be bad? 1,2,4, all work. Even though I do not have channel 2 connected if you hold it down the alarm relays activates that channel. So I'm wondering why channel 3 is not even clicking. Any ideas? Please let me know, today is my last day here in Chicago.

Thanks,

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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!

Well,

I think that the alarm is defective. Tried every thing in the book. No luck. I even tried programing remote start into a different button, no luck. Trunk release, door locks, door triggers, parking lights, siren works perfect as it should. Just the alarm will not activate remote start heh! Very wierd for this alarm to do that, first one actually that ever went bad on me. I tried using the momentary switch to start, no luck as well. I have a few hours in the morning but I still think that the alarm is bad. All wiring is staying in the car until I can get this brain swapped out. Back to sunny Florida wheather

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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!

could be that the wires that connect throughout your ignition aren't wired properly. You could be right though, it could be defective.

Hey guys,

Well, I got back home and tested the alarm brain. Come to find out that the brain is ok! Great! Now I was thinking and remembered that there are two start wires on that car. I did a y connection for the starter kill but not for the remote start. The one wire that goes from the remote start relays to the starter was only connected on one of the start wires. This most likely is the problem. What do you guys think?

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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!

• You need both starter wires engergized at start up for the car to start. That would be a big problem if the starter disable wire is only on one of the two wires. Test to be sure that the two starter wires are getting 12 volts at remote start , and if only one is... there's your problem.
• Another thing is to check to make sure that it's not in manual transmission mode ( if applicable ). Not sure with the DEI but the units that I have you need to tell the system wether or not to go through a sequence prior to the remote start and if the sequence is not followed through, the system will not even engage.
• Check to see if you are in valet mode as well
• make sure all trigger points are closed

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Thankyou Jeff,

I appreciate the help as always. I somehow forgot to add that same y connection that I made with the starter kill to the two starter wires from the remote start. "Dooh" I'm glad that the alarm is not bad though. I was a little hesistant to think that it was the alarm but just did not go back far enough to think that. Anyhow again thankyou Jeff!

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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!

If you do not use the neautral saftey wire also ,you must make sure it is grounded or the remote start will not operate.also the trigger for the hood is only for the hood that way if the hood is up it will not start for saftey.If it is a late model gm it probably has a vats passkey system.If the key has a little chip in it measure it with a digital meter whatever the ohms on the chip reads thats what resistor you need