Printer Friendly Forum Posts - PATS Bypass on F-150

Please HELP, I need to by pass the PATS system all together on a 2002 F150 supercrew, Im was installing a remote start alarm and decided to skip out on buying a PATS bypass unit and just jump the signal wires that go to the instrument cluster and now it wont even start with my keys, I tried to reprogram it by the one key in to one position then the second key in to the on position but nothing, I even left the battery disconnect all night and still nothing. I have to either learn how to program my keys back in or just forget about it and bypass the comnplete system all together as Im now at home stuck with a truck I can't even start up to drive it even if I wanted to just take it to the dealer to have them do it.......note to self "never go the cheap route again"

try here hope this helps some https://www.fordf150.net/howto/patskey.php

If you jumped the signal wires together, you probably fried something. I have no idea what made you think that would work. You didn't say if you put the wires back to the original way, but I'll assume you did. You are probably calling a tow truck on this one...and paying a good sized repair bill.

If the PATS system has been tampered with and cause a short in the system, you will need to replace the PATS computer and get new keys made. This is a VERY expensive process that Ford will kindly charge it's cusotmer's for. Definitely a learning experience for you and other member's........ don't cheap out on a $ 20 part when it comes to $ 1000 + repair bill posted_image

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Thanks for the replies,I need to get this thing started as I can't beleive there is no way around this system, if that was true and there wasn't then there would be no ford stolen vehicles except for the ones that get towed away.

Not true, the guys stealing these vehicles with PATS, can bypass an ACTIVE working PATS system, but if you short out the PATS, then your done.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I shorted out the RX and TX wires going to the instrument cluster. It seems it kills the fuel supply. I can cycle the key several times and it it to fire for a second or two. How can I test out the PATS to see what I need to replace. I will continue to try to decode this anti-thief system tring to elimate it all together please keep the replies coming in.

Im already in this neck deep, I need to get it started any help is appreciated.I will truy anything at this point.

Has anyone thats had there truck stolen then recovered seen what was done to bypass the PATS??

Time to call a tow truck. Why the hell did you short wires going to the instrument cluster? Did you mean the key cylinder, the only thing in the cluster is the light? If you fried the computer then you will never get the truck to start, what part of this is so hard to understand.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

The cluster is responsable for comparing and storing the PATS signals for up to 8 keys, the cluster is more than just the light, but anyways your right time for a tow truck I guess waiting until Tuesday when the dealer opens.

Don't you mean computer, ecu or like? The cluster is the thing you look at to see how fast you are going, fuel gauge, etc... By the way, there are reasons companies make bypasses for these.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Passlock system is an effective all-electronic theft detterent system which shuts off fuel delivery if the vehicles ignition lock or starter switch is tampered with or changed in any way.

This electronic system consists of the following components:

1. a passlock cilinder with a sensor and a magnet.

2 a paslock ignition/starter switch witch transmits an R-code to the IPC to signal the beginning of a start cycle.

3. a module in the instrument panel cluster (IPC) which reads and accepts or reject a voltage drop (R-code) transmitted to it when the lock cilinder is released from the crank position to "on".

If all the above criteria are succesful then the IPC will send a GO or a NO-GO output to the PCM in order to continue running (enable fuel).

If you insert a coded key in the ignition lock, this will recognise it as a "true" key and this ignition lock will sent a signal to the passlock ignition/starter switch. This ignition starter switch will then send an R-code to the module in the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC). This IPC will then send a signal to the PCM to enable engine fuel delivery.

It is almost impossible to bypass this system, without expensive computers and knowledge. How these car are stolen are usually because the thief has broken into a house and stole a key. Other than that it is almost impossible, or you have to be a very skilled computer freak, but then again, you would not be stealing cars, but rather be a millionaire with all that knowledge. Simple as that. This pats system is not an alarm system.

If you can start the car and it dies immediately (because of fuel delivery) then you have PATS problem.

Your only solution:

Take the car to the dealer and if you are lucky then your keys have lost all their codes. They will reprogram all the keys again. (200 dollars).

Worst case scenario: They have to replace the whole pats system (very expensive)

Even worst case scenario: You fried the PCM. (but I dont think so)

Even more worst case scenario: they have to replace the whole PATS system and a new PCM.

If you can start the car and then it shuts off, then it is PATS related. But if you cannot even crank the starter, then it might be something more dramatic like the PCM in combination with PATS.

Your only solution: Let the skilled technicians at Ford dealer look at it.

Keep us posted with what the Ford people say.

I trully hope that it is just key prgramming

I could be wrong, but to my knowledge that is how PATS works.

Keep us posted with your findings

Try these steps for programming a new key. It's s shot in the dark before calling the tow truck:

for Ford keys (Later 1998-newer Ford, Lincoln, Mercury)

If you want to initiate a new master key....

1. This requires that the vehicle be connected to special dealer equipment. There are two ten minute delays involved while this device erases all existing key programming and sets up the vehicle computer to accept new key codes. Two new keys should be ready because the system requires a minimum of two keys in the program. After the first two keys are programmed, additional keys can be entered individually by following the instructions for adding duplicate keys (below).

If you want to add a key....

**You must have two original keys to perform this procedure. If you only have one key, you WILL have to take it to the dealer to get it programmed**

1. Insert and existing (working) key into the ignition cylinder.

2. Turn the ignition cylinder ON (RUN) and back to OFF. Ignition should stay on for at least ONE SECOND.

3. Remove the existing key and, within TEN seconds, insert a second working key and turn it to ON (RUN) and the back OFF. Ignition must be in ON for at least ONE second, but no more than TEN seconds. Remove the key.

4. Insert the new key before TWENTY seconds have elapsed and turn it to ON (RUN). Leave it the ON position for at least ONE second and turn back to OFF.

5. The security light will light up for THREE seconds to indicate that the new key has been successfully programmed.

6. To program additional keys, repeat steps 1 through 5

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I have a simular proble a friend of mine brought his 1999 explorer in for service and had a remote start installed by some BUTCHER it worked for a while bu was intermitent and sometimes the car wouldnt start at all and now the explorer has been towed to our shop.
This is the problem I had a friend of mind bring his computer to program a key for this vehicle and it took the program no problem but the car still wont start it cranks but no go. I have tried to disarm the factory pats system by using the disarm wire but the factory pats system wont shut down I cant seem to get anythiong to work to get it started. I have repaired the install of the remote system but cant get anything to get this car started I need some help here other than short of sending it to the dealer and getting the pats replaced If anyone has replaced the pats system before please advise me on how or if to involved then tell me what moduels I might have to get hold of to get this vehicle running again.

sincerely: Dale

Datrick, Your correct and you have explained the Pats system exactly as I read it from the Ford service DVD ROM manual. These Ford trucks and cars (mustang 5.0) are getting stolen daily and ,most are without the keys but that a whole different thing. I hoping your senario with just they reprograming of the keys is it as the cluster thief light fast flashes indicating a unauthorized key. I have Fords Extended Warranty and I will try to just play dumb about what happened and see if they offer to cover the programing under warranty if not I guess I have no choice as I got to get it running. Thanks for your input and everyone elses I will keep you all informed as this will be a major learning experience for us all especially me....and fell free to continue any replies you fell fit.

i've heard that if you power up your no 1 coil by running an acc. power wire to it. it will also power up all the rest and then you can start your truck. the reason you cant start your truck is because pats is still working fine. posted_image

ive also heard that if you first remove the bcm or gem whatever fuse then turn your ign. switch to run position and then replace the fuse it skips the pats procces. all this info. ive received from car thieve thugs that come to my car audio shop and claim to steal tons of trucks like yours. then again these same jokers claim they can still steal any car our shop secures. im yet to see just one. good luck!

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gill secure

Also, you don't mention if your truck's under warranty still or not. If it is, put all the crap back so it looks absolutely factory and then call them from your cell phone and tell them that you just got stranded at some store while out and you need to have it towed into the dealership.

Even if you're not under warranty, you're much more likely to find a place that's going to be sympathetic and cut you a break. If they know that you were jerkin' around in your garage, you're screwed - they're going to put it to you.

And not to add salt to the wound, but I just (yesterday) put a PATS bypass in my F150 and it took all of about 5 minutes. I was actually suprised at how easy it was.

Good luck, please post your results in the event that someone has this problem again.

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Bill

I towed it to the dealer today around noon and haven't heard back from them, I have fords extended premium extended warranty since I'm out of the factory warranty.
Subsonic, too bad I read your post after the truck was at the dealer, if not I would of tested those hotwire thief tricks and let you know if it is a fact or a fiction. The fuse trick sounds like it might work, but the coil one doesn't seem like it's for the ford truck as the fords shut off the fuel, but sure seems like it might work on others. Good tip, Thanks and I'll keep you all posted.

5.0 mustangs get stolen because PATS wasn't introduced until 96 when the Mustang went to the 4.6 motor. Theft numbers on 99+ F150s are low as well due to the PATS system.

I'm not sure of the methods sub sonic posted but I do know of three ways to steal a PATS equipped vehicle.
1) use an NGS and clear all programed PATS codes, remove the cylinder and replace it with a keyed cylinder with key that you carry with you. Program your key and your set. The NGS isn't cheep and this method takes 10 min for programing. Also if you damage the ring around the cylinder when you switch it out you'll be in the same boat you're in now.
2) same as above but instead of reprogramming the cluster you bring your own.
3) Tow truck

One and two are impractical on the street, three is the only real way to do it.

I was going to give you some tips on how to track down what the problem was, but sense it's at the dealer now it doesn't matter. I do hope you told them what caused your problems. Every hour more that it takes 'em to track down the problem is $80+ that it's going to cost you.

Once you get it back running if you still want a cheep way to bypass the PATS system remove the chip from one of your keys and attach it to the PATS antenna on the cylinder. Your vehicle will only start now with NON PATS keys after you do this

The preferred way is to make your own bypass for the price of a relay and some wire.
here's a how to:
https://ftw.truckmoxie.com/mygallery.ten-id-153-album-12540

f150hiram wrote:

I towed it to the dealer today around noon and haven't heard back from them, I have fords extended premium extended warranty since I'm out of the factory warranty.
Subsonic, too bad I read your post after the truck was at the dealer, if not I would of tested those hotwire thief tricks and let you know if it is a fact or a fiction. The fuse trick sounds like it might work, but the coil one doesn't seem like it's for the ford truck as the fords shut off the fuel, but sure seems like it might work on others. Good tip, Thanks and I'll keep you all posted.

Car is still at the ford dealer? or is it up and running with no problem? Tell us what happened and how it was solved.

f150hiram: You gonna tell us what happened at the dealer. Might help us in the future.

They've had my truck in for 4 days now and yesterday they told me it should be ready for today(7-9-04) they said they had to order a new instrument cluster for it. If they do happen to finish it today I will give you guys a full report to the extent of my damages tonight.

Any info yet????????????????

Ditto. I've been checking this thread every day to find out the outcome. Consider this my own little Days of Our Lives.

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Bill

This is the third person today that I read about who is screwed because they are two cheap to buy a $20 bypass unit. Just like the other guy who took the chip out of his new and taped it to the colum and lost the chip. Why Why Why is the only thing I can ask. This is a valueble lesson to be learned for all new installers. Use the correct parts and speng the money if need be.

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MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy

I went on Saturday to see for myself what going on and to get a few things I needed out of the truck and when they walked back into the shop area, my truck looked like it was on life support! It had all kinds of computers connected to it, the dash and glove cmpartment areas are all apart and the mechanic working on it told me he working on it and doing all the diagnostics test, he replace the instrument cluster and did everything his book told him to do but still nothing, he was going to cut new keys and try that if not he was going to get a hold of Ford on Monday morning for some extra help.

What a mess this has turned into.

all over a cheap ass part.

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Best Buy Installer

loudsh*t wrote:

all over a cheap ass part.

-its a lesson learned, but i dont think he needs a reminder right now, chump.

-anyways, keep us updated.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

chump? ok

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Best Buy Installer

Hmm, still no resolution posted on here or f150online.com..

This is getting exciting!

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J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Still nothing, my poor truck!

so, what else have the technician tried?

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

Did the technician give you any indication that they knew about the remote start installation attempt. They can usually get some pretty good info from the truck's computer logs.

this is about stealing the cars with pats i know on the original PATS expedition,tarus,nav,etc you could just unplug the module under the steering colum (4 pin) and they would start thats what we did until the vehicle battery died on a navigator and all keys weere lost and the vehicle had to be reprogrammed after the pats was reconnected, this was before anyone had any real bypasses for transponders late 96

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tj

tjdurham, a few flaws in what you have posted.
PATS doesn't prevent the vehicle from starting, it allows the vehicle to start. Unplugging the PATS module will prevent the cluster from receiving a transponder code and the vehicle will not start.
Not sure what the vehicle's battery dieing has to do with it either as the transponder codes are stored in non volatile memory.
Also must have been one special Navigator to have had it in late 96 since Lincoln didn't release the Navigator until late 97 as a '98 model.

Steve, I have also heard that unplugging the PATS module will allow the vehicle to start. One of my coworkers used to work at a shop that would do that when PATS first came out.

I have a feeling tjdurham is referring to the 96 Taurus. The PATS module was located right behind the radio. You could actually reach up from under the dash and unplug it.

i am refering to most of the original PATS vehicles the plug in reference is the 4 pin at the steering colum on all PATS vehicles i have only done that a few times back in 96-97 until better tech references came out steve w i have forgotten more tham you probally will ever learn been installin as a pro since 91 so thanks for input but the car in orig reference was in fact 96 taurus\sable as knoledgeable worm easily figured out and if you unplug the connector it willlll start but read the 1st post as to what can happen if your battery drains

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tj

Sorry TJ, thought we were talking about PATS C (F150 Navigator) here. I missed that you had thrown PATS A (96 Taurus) in to the mix.

"i have forgotten more tham you probally will ever learn been installin as a pro since 91"

I think you underestimate my installation skills but that is neither here nor there. I'm not a professional installer, but that in no way effects my knowledge and training concerning the Ford PATS system which is the topic of this discussion.

So it's been a couple of days....how goes the epic battle with the truck?

Its hard to believe that not even Ford technicians can solve this problem??????? Its been more than 2 weeks. Any info???

the technitians are only human like us the computer that they use is hust a process of elimination and they probally have to order each part one at a time to test a simple $10 pkf would have saved all this

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tj

No, the technicians are probably morons that are following a list of things to do off of thier computer. If one procedure doesn't fix it then they start over at step one of the same procedure, and repeat. THIS IS HOW DEALERSHIPS DO THINGS. I have seen the list for certain problems.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Technicians at dealerships don't know how to troubleshoot. They just do what the book tells them. That usually means replacing modules and computers.

A couple examples I have seen....Once a Kia dealership replaced 3 different airbag modules in a Sedona in an attempt to get an airbag light to shut off. The problem was a connector came lose in the drivers kick panel.

A GM dealership replaced a BCM and fuse block for about $600 or so. Problem was a fuse terminal was spread too far apart so it wasn't making contact with the fuse anymore. A previous installer had used a fuse tap, and when it was later removed the fuse didn't complete the connection anymore.

Once a Nissan dealer wanted to replace the window switch on a customers Quest because his drivers window stopped working. Blamed it on a wire I had connected nearby for the doorlocks. Customer tried to put window down when it was frozen and a circuit trace melted. Told customer it was going to cost over $150. Customer called me and I told him to come in. I jumped a wire over the burnt trace on the circuit board....problem fixed. No cost.

I hate dealers....its always the remote starters fault, unless of course it was installed at the dealership.

i had looked at a friends 1999 f150 that already had an avital remote start/keyless installed. his problem was that the locks wouldn't lock/unlock consistently. after trouble shooting a bit, i checked all connections, including the pats bypass. (or lack thereof) i hope whoever put that thing in no longer installs because what they did to "bypass" the pats was to take the second master key and tape it to the antenna ring that they also removed from around the key cylinder. it was just lying atop the spaghetti of wires at the column! no zip ties, nothing. the key was not grinded down or anything. so i put the antenna ring back around the key cylinder so that he would maintain the factory security and suggested that he buy a bypass(555-f) and that i would install it for him. after looking at his truck and all was put back together, it was time to go.........or should i say no go. the truck would not start. all i did was untape the original key from the antenna. typical pats doing its job, i guess. well, he had it towed to the dealership and $600.00 later, it was up and running. the dealership reperesented the truck and its remote start when it was sold to him initially, yet when it was time to warranty, sorry, pay up sucka, was all that was said. this was about a year ago and i still wonder if it was something i did. who knows how long that key had been taped to the antenna, but i can only speculate as to me untaping the key somehow made it lose code? anyways, i just thought i'd share this while we all wait to find out the outcome of "the shorting of the cluster wires". posted_image

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do it right the first time....less warranty work=more money!:)

I'm gonna be p!$$ed if after 5 pages and weeks of reading I don't find out the end to this story. How does the story end?

mecpcert, unfortunately I see that type of install come in from other shops far too often.

Exactly, where the hell is the truck? and what dealership specifically? In this amount of time they could have put an entirely new harness, computers, interior, engine, suspension, etc.... Oh wait it didn't even take this long to build it.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

I am curious too!!!!! I find it hard to believe that the dealer is keeping the truck for so long. I have seen a lot of people putting lots of efforts into to this thread (topic) in order to provide the owner of the f150 (f150 hiram) some sort of possible solution or explanation. I hope that the owner of the f150 truck (f150 hiram (topic starter)), posts the outcome. Then we can all learn something. I have seen a lot of people starting a new topic with lots of question and then, once they are helped out, they dont even reply in the topic to say whether or not it helped them. So please post results.

Got my truck finally back!

What an headache. They wanted me to pay $1200 dollars worth of labor for there time of looking for the problem as they said someone untaped the factor tape around the wire harness to the instrument cluster.

They where billing for replacing the instrument cluster, the pats system, and the GEM but they said my aftermarket ford warranty would cover the parts but was only going to pay for 3 hours of labor and I had to pay for 16 hours ($1200)the rest, or I was going to have to pay for everything and they where going to viod my warranty. This pissed me off with the attidude they said it like they where doing me a favor by getting the warranty to cover a part of the repairs. I said I only signed for 1 hour worth of diagnostic labor and this would let me know if it would be covered or not, but not 16 hours. To make a long story short I got super lucky and it only costed me my $50 deductable. And the mechanic said the only thing they did was move/shift the RX and RT wire over one pin on the cluster harness.

I swear I counted right, but this was the whole problem, nothing else was wrong.
LESSON LEARNED! DONT CHEAP OUT ON A PART AND ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK AND THEN TRIPLE CHECK BEFORE GIVING UP!!!