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Viper 350HV hood pinswitch

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=35428
Printed Date: June 02, 2024 at 7:01 AM


Topic: Viper 350HV hood pinswitch

Posted By: csx929
Subject: Viper 350HV hood pinswitch
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 7:44 PM

I've had the alarm in for a few weeks, and it was working fine. This morning, the alarm started having all kinds of false alarms, and was giving me the beep that signals that a zone is open. The door pinswitches are fine, so all that was left the hood pinswitch. The switch was due up for replacement anyway, but when I finally did, it doesn't work. I traced the wire from the brain to the switch, it's all intact. However, it won't set off the alarm when triggered, nor will the brain even acknowledge that it's there (it doesn't give me the "open zone" beep when I arm the alarm with the hood open.) Any ideas as to what may be wrong? Everything else in the alarm functions perfectly.



Replies:

Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 8:05 PM
what about the trunk switch. Are the trunk & hood on the same input. If they are maybe a bad diode.




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 8:10 PM
There is no trunk switch...i'm waiting until I order a motor so I can do my trunk release and pinswitch at the same time....




Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 8:19 PM
Maybe try another switch. Put a meter to the switch and ground see if you get countiunty. Depending on your car you trunk switch may be right in the kick panel. since you got your car apart (im guessing, since trying to figure out the hood switch) be less work in the future\.




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 8:26 PM

Maybe I didn't make myself quite too clear...

The car in question is a '65 mustang, so there's no trunk switch/release in any way, so it doesn't pertain to my situation at all....what i'm trying to figure out is why the alarm isn't reading my hood pinswitch, the one that is mounted in the engine bay so that it detects when the hood is open, and will set the alarm off if it is opened while armed....





Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 8:34 PM
since the 2nd switch aint working, maybe the first one was good and the problem lies in the brain.




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 8:56 PM
I take it there's no way in determing if the brain is at fault though....it's not like they're cheap....posted_image




Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 9:04 PM
Not sure on that, i would like to know. Did you install the alarm or had a shop do it. If a shop did it take it back, in not call the company back up and se what they will do. i seen severl places that they put a year waranty on it. If comes down to it well you can send it back for waht ever reason and dont want to buy a new one, use your door trigger or something.
Hope some one will post soon how to test the alarm see if it bad or not.




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 9:07 PM
Did the install myself....




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 11, 2004 at 11:39 PM
Well I metered the wire, and it gives me 12 volts constantly, doesn't change when I arm or diarm the alarm...is that what a a hood/trunk sensor wire is supposed to put out? I lost my installation manual, so I can't reference it...




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 4:02 PM

bobk]G wrote:

ound the wire at the pin switch and try to arm, if you get zone open look at the switch, if not look at the brain.The hood pin switch goes to ground if it is working.I think swamprat was trying to help you find the trunk stuff when you are ready to install.

So it is supposed to read ground when armed? I metered it yesterday, and was receiveing 12 volts all the time, which didn't sound right.





Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 4:21 PM
it should see ground when the hood is open...it sounds like your wire is open...did you meter continuity at the connector? i'll bet you a beer if you install a new switch and run a new wire everything will be fine....

-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 4:26 PM

kgerry wrote:

it should see ground when the hood is open...it sounds like your wire is open...did you meter continuity at the connector? i'll bet you a beer if you install a new switch and run a new wire everything will be fine....

I think I may try that. I'll probaby just connect a little jumper wire at the brain, and test it in the cab, saves having to re-run everything with no guarantee that it will solve the problem. Strange that the wire would read 12 volts constant all the time.





Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 5:19 PM
it will read 12volts until you apply a ground to it at which point it will read ground...just like a negative door trigger circuit would.....

-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 6:41 PM
Well I metered it again, but it still reads 12 volts all the time. I tried using a new wire and switch, but still no good. So I hooked up the hood sensor the negative door trigger, and works like a charm now. Are there any drawbacks to how I have it wired up now?




Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 6:47 PM
Only draw back would be say an alarm went off cant say if was a door or hood.
Just make sure to use diodes.




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 6:50 PM

swamprat323 wrote:

Only draw back would be say an alarm went off cant say if was a door or hood.
Just make sure to use diodes.

Well the postive trigger is connected to the doors, and the negative to the alarm, so I think i'll be alright. Are you saying to use diodes, thinking that I have both the doors and hood hooked up to the same negative trigger?





Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 6:57 PM
I though wrong, but should be good to go. i know i mention b4 but have you check with the company you bought it see if they have a warenty, most i seen do, this warenty wont be DEI warenty but a store one.




Posted By: csx929
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 7:54 PM

swamprat323 wrote:

I though wrong, but should be good to go. i know i mention b4 but have you check with the company you bought it see if they have a warenty, most i seen do, this warenty wont be DEI warenty but a store one.

Well the company I bought it from folded, so I'm stuck with what I have, I guess. But it works now, so thanks a lot everyone.






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