1998 mustang, clifford 3.5, factory arm

Ok I have a 1998 mustang. alarm is a clifford 3.5 responder  ( not useing the remote start)

The alarm has a rearm factory alarm wire.

According to the place I bought it, they said that the 1998 mustang factory alarm rearms itself on a timer after the ignition is turned off .and I dont need to use this wire. Is this correct?

IF it is correct is there another way to hook it up, I can not have it rearm itself will I sit in the car after turning the ignition off.  My job requires me to do just that.  Thanks  Brad

First of all 3.5, awesome alarm. never had problems putting in any car.

Newer mustangs have something called a "wake up" system for their factory brain that messes with aftermarket alarms.  After the car has been shut off for I think 30 minutes the cars brain sends a pulse though various parts of its system.  When an aftermarket alarm is installed it picks up these pulses and thinks the car is getting broken into, which sets the alarm off every 30 minutes.  What you have to do is double diode isolate the doors.  I think (I cant remember right now) that ford has two seperate door triggers for each door on the mustang, both of those have to be isolated (typical diode isolation) then cut the door trigger wires from the car.  On the wire that you cut, put a diode on the cut wire that goes to the brain and connect all the wires back together.  This will prevent the brain from sending false information to the aftermarket alarm. good luck

use darck GREEN/ purle in the drivers kick for factory alarm disarm, or Anti Theft Control Unit located left rear of trunk behind trim panel.

ive never had problems with the wake up, if it really has it.  techsoft and directechs say nothing about it having a GEM module which does need a wake up.  for door triggers use grey in either kick.

i doubt youll have a problem.

now, on the wiring for a 1999 mustang the wiring for triggers lists a *1 and *2 see notes below, so we go to *1 and *2 below.

*1Also found at the GEM module located above the drivers kick panel to the drivers side of the steering column.  *2 There are two door trigger wires. Use yellow/black for the drivers door and gray/red for the passengers door. Both wires are found above the drivers kick panel in a 20 pin connector. Use both wires and diode isoate each. See direct fax document #1076 for wiring information. 

Thanks to both of you ,I will try to install it without  diod isolation first,,

 If it end up needing it latter then I will isolate it....

I will post a follow up so you both of you know who was right and can help others with same trouble. for the 1998 mustang model

I think he is right, I dont remember what year the wake up was incorporated in the mustang, it might have been in 99.  but if he said the direct fax 1076 was in 99 then that was the year.  sorry for any confusion.  1076 is the diode isolation schematic, not for 1998.  My apologies

Ok  Another Question.... The (+) parking light circuit ,does it draw 10amps or more????

If it draws 10amps or more  then it says I have to use a relay??? Could you tell me the layout for relay conection if it needs one???

I am familar with the pins 85,86,87,87A,30

Ok Thanks agian,, Here is I hope the last ???

As I stated earlier, I am not useing the Remote start features..

There is a set of wires that are called ,the relay key switch interface wire connection. they then plug into Remote start secondary harness, and then plug into the Alarm brain through ribbon wires....

Do I have to hook these wires up... I think they may be for the remote start features that I am not going to use.. Am I correct???

If I dont hook these up, IS there another way for me to have a hood pin trigger as the triger wire is part on the ribbon wire connection that goes to the Remote start secondary harness.

That is correct it is the grey wire, but I am not useing the remote start feature, What I am wonding is if i can still use just that wire from the wire harness ,  Or if there is another way to sire for the hood latch pin...

Also good luck on your install. this is a great fourm for help....

im using the grey wire and it works just fine.  if the hood opens about 4inches the siren goes off and the remote shows the hood icon.  ill take a video of it tomorrow if you really want to see it work.  if the alarm isnt armed the remote start wont work with the hood up.

i believe it may have something to do with the hood/trunk option on the remote programming.  but it works for me.

What A minute are you saying that is I do not hook up the satalite Power leads and the purple and green for starter kill the alarm will not work..... I was told that I could set it up so that I do not use the remote start....Isnt the other model the same without the remote start???

The main alarm harness has it own power lead... So why do I have to use the power leads for the satalite remote??

My Car has the PATs system I am not worried about someone driveing off woth it just monkeying around the interior...It is a vert...

I plan on installing tomorrow...Please help

if you didnt want remote start you should have bought the 2.5 thats what its designed for... alarm only.

if you are doing dome lights, i urge you to use a relay even if you use (-) door triggers.  the current with out a relay could damage the brain.

Well I Got the 3.5 because it hadd more extra chanels for expansion latter.....

But my ? is do I have to hook up the satalite box to get power to the alarm??? I thought the brain  has its own power lead? would,nt  that power the alarm?

ok sure the brain has a POWER lead... but how will it get ignition, even for using the optional ignition controlled door locks if nothing else, sensing that some theif thurned the ignition on and what about the starter kill?  even with PATS i still want the starter kill to work.  that comes from the purple and green wires from the relay pack.

and besides.... they both have 5channels... i think even the non 2-ways like the 160xv remote start) and the 350hv (alarm) have 5.

if a sales person sold you on the channels for th 3.5... you got played for some extra $$$