Basic install stuff and GM questions

I am installing a viper 791xv into my 2003 Chevy S-10. I have most of the system figured out but I have a few questions before I start tomorrow.

1. My truck has retained assecory power meaning the radio and stuff stays on for awhile after shutting down until a door is opened. How do I setup the system to turn off the RAP after shutting down remote start.  Apparently I need to hook up a wire to send a - pulse to the door open trigger to get it to shut off.

2. How do I setup the door locks? Do I need to use relays for lock and unlock? How do I set it up so that it only unlocks the driver door on the first push and then the passenger door with the second push?

3. In my truck is it possible to rearm the factory alarm? I've read you need to carry the factory FOB to get the factory "alarm" to work. Although I think that is just honking if the door is opened right?

4. With my GM how do I setup the neutral safety toggle switch? Do I need to do the huge complicated looking diagram in the manual?

5. For powering all of the little constant +12v can I just use one 10 ga wire off a constant source with a fuse and then just tap into that wire for everything else?

6. What is the WHITE/ blue wire that is used for remote start activation? Looks like you put a switch on it to turn on remote start but you could only hit the switch in the vehicle so that doesnt really make much sence to me.

Thanks for the help hopefully I will get this down this weekend.

theres a few ways to do #1 so ill let others post

#2  if you read the manual for the 791, youll see that it has built-in relays for +/- locks.  your truck has + trigger so jut follow the blue/green for + .  if you want drivers door priority, youll need a relay and youll have to use the second unlock pulse option.

#3  there is a factory alarm re-arm wire from the 79, but your truck does not have one.  my guess is that the factory remote controls it with lock.  and it is just honking, forget about it an just let your 791 take care of it.  make sure you use the factory alarm disarm wire tho, its always a good idea to hook that up.

#4  the GM part doesnt matter if you are talking about the little switch that comes with the 791.  to use that, take the main ground and the BLACK/ white to chasis ground.  cut the BLACK/ white and crimp/solder the toggle in series with the BLACK/ white.  all it does is make/brake the remote start ground.  the alarm ground stays solid.

#5  you truck should have a red and RED / white 12v constant.  use both of those for the 2 red remote start wires.  anything else you need 12v from can be soldered in there too.

#6  the activation input is mostly used for adding a remote start to an alarm thats already installed.  if you think about it aux channels are (-) outputs, so if you need to trigger the remote start, take the alarm (-) channel to the blue/white and the vehicle starts.  you can use a switch as a push start too.  i use it as my 5th channel to trigger remote start with defogger.  my regular remote start is without defogger.

you will need a 555L to work with the passlock II system for successful remote starts.

Ok I'm still thinking about the drivers door priority thing and how to set it up. According to the chart on this site:

It would look like I could just hook the lock to the light blue and then the primary unlock to the tan and the secondary unlock to the white. Would this work? Since I am only unlocking 2 doors.

Or something like this

Ok so if I tie the rearm wire directly to the (-) door pin wire it will shut down the radio.

1. Is the (-) 200mA output it provides enough?

2. Wont that be a constant output to the door pin telling the rest of the vehicle the door is open? (Leaving the dome lights and stuff on). Or is that rearm  pulsed? It doesnt really say in the manual.

Anyone more comments on how to setup the door locks so the driver opens first?

I just finished a Viper 350HV install in my 2000 Chevy S10 on Fri.  I tapped the door triggers at the Pin switchs.  On the Drivers side you will see 2 wires coming off the switch under the dash, the Tan in the trigger, and on the passenger, just take out the glovebox and you will see an orange wire, thats the passenger trigger.  Make sure you Diode Isolate these, theres a great article on this site for that. 

If you need help with the starter wire, its not a thick guage wire, its yellow and about 18ga.

-Rich

Did you just use 2 1N4004 diodes (1 per switch) between the pin switch and the green wire from the alarm?

How did you setup your door locks?

Thanks

The reason I asked if you used 2 diodes is because in this diagram: https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1073.pdf 

they used 4. I dont really know if the 2 diodes seperating the BCM from the switches are necessary.

I think I may have found my solution to my door locks.

https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1041.pdf

On page 20 it looks like that diagram would work. In my mind the top relay is used just to change the polarity of the 2nd unlock pulse and since it is in between the switch and the factory relays it would unlock all the doors. The bottom relay is used because you tap into the drivers motor after the factory relays and the brain output cant power the motor so you use a relay. To me this makes sense, is this the way it is done? Anyone know the color of the wires or if I have to go inside the door to get between the relays and the motor?

I used 2 n4001 diodes, 1 coming off each door pin wire, and ran these to the green alarm trigger wire. Make sure you face the diode in the proper direction.  See here.....https://www.the12volt.com/carsecurity/page5.asp

I dont have power locks, so not sure on that one.

Hope this helps...

-Rich