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Viper 791, 96 Accord LX

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=37363
Printed Date: July 14, 2025 at 4:31 PM


Topic: Viper 791, 96 Accord LX

Posted By: smurfx7o7
Subject: Viper 791, 96 Accord LX
Date Posted: August 14, 2004 at 1:58 AM

hey wussup everyone.... i recently had a viper 791 installed on my 96 accord lx. and my problem is: when i remote start my car, my ac won't turn on untill i turn the key. what can i do to fix this?

and one more question.... i have that extra module that makes the windows go up and down but i don't know how to install it... can u guys help me out?

thanks everyone




Replies:

Posted By: tbirdman74
Date Posted: August 14, 2004 at 6:29 AM
sounds like one of the ign or acc wires is not getting power from the relay pack.  You may have to add another relay to tap into the wire.  you can check by testing which wires show power when you remote start, and when you start with key.  probably one that will not show power when remote started that will show power with key.  As for the extra module, is it the 530t from DEI or another brand?  can make a world of difference on how big of a PITA it will be to install.

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If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!




Posted By: dBDevil
Date Posted: August 14, 2004 at 11:55 PM
The car appearantly has another acc wire that was not hooked up. It would be proper to wire another relay into the relay pack. Use the orange wire off the small 4 pin plug that also has a pink, purple, and another wire on it. Wire the orange to either 86 or 85 on a SPDT relay. Put 12v on the other (85 or 86). Put a strong 12v on 87 and wire 30 to the second acc wire on the ignition harness. Or you could do it half-assed and loop the orange wire already there to the wire.




Posted By: smurfx7o7
Date Posted: August 15, 2004 at 12:24 AM

wowzers sounds complicated... can u simplify that for me? sorry, im not good with this stuff at all

and yup. the window module is a530t from dei





Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: August 15, 2004 at 1:21 AM
Ignition #1:   BLACK / YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition #2:   YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Accessory:   WHITE/ BLACK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

check the ignition 2 wire or any of those wire above. most likely its the ign 2, yellow.

look at the heavy guage wire goin to the ignition wires locates below the steering shaft.

pink- ign1
pink/white-ign2
orange-acc





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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).




Posted By: dBDevil
Date Posted: August 15, 2004 at 1:42 AM

Get a relay......bottom looks kinda like.           (87)    __

                                                                   (86)  |  (87a) __  (85)  |

                                                                               (30)     |





Posted By: tbirdman74
Date Posted: August 15, 2004 at 2:39 AM

locate and test to confirm the following wires under dr. door panel near switch.

RED / blu        dr up
RED / yel         dr down
blu/yel         pass up
blu               pass down

once comfirmed you will cut each one and then you will connect the wires from the 530t as follows:

Heavy Guage wire harness
vio                  to bare metal ground under dash
grn                motor side of RED / yel
blu                motor side of RED / blu
red               12+ capable of high current draw (preferably 10ga wire or straight to battery)
blk                (-) ground
vio/blk           to bare metal ground under dash
grn/blk          motor side of blu
blu/blk          motor side of blu/yel

Light Guage wire harness
brn            switch side of RED / blu
wht           switch side of RED / yel
RED / wht     (-) aux. input (this is your (-) output from alarm to trigger windows down)
org            (-) ground when armed (have to diode isolate)
gry             (-) output during activation (for disabling shock sensors if neccesarry)
brn/blk       switch side of blu/yel
wht/blk       switch side of blu

be sure to make solid connections on all wires since some power windows can draw extremely high amperages and melt wires and connectors.  when you get done with making connections, take a look at the wires and if you see a heavy guage wire going from the 530t to the window switches, or a light guage wire going into the door, STOP AND RECHECK EVERYTHING!
530's are excellent products but a small mistake in wiring will let the smoke out and we all know electronics run on smoke.  I like to leave the RED / wht and org wires unhooked till the very end, that way you can test the windows without using the alarm, by just holding one or the other to bare metal.  Reduces the amount of racket in the bay.  most of the time with viper alarms, you dont have to hook up the gray wire to disable the shock sensor because I think the alarm does so when it activates the channel 3 or 4 output.  Also must program whatever output you are going to use to validity output, which means it stays on until you release the buttons on the remote.  There are also 5 dip switches next to one of the plugs, four are to program the amount of force need to roll the windows, and one sets the polarity that it looks for on the switch wires.  There should be a diagram in the manual of the 530 that shows how to set, if not let me know and i'll get one to you.  Last but not least, if you are not absolutely, positvely, 100% sure of things, get some help with it.  It is far wiser to ask for assistance than to buy more parts.  May the alarm gods be with you. 



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If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!




Posted By: smurfx7o7
Date Posted: August 15, 2004 at 11:24 AM

Dopeness...... thanks everyone for the hlep

im going to try and do this tomorow.... i'll let ya'll know if this works for me.

thanks again






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