1997 Expedition Lock Circuit Verification
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=37566
Printed Date: September 11, 2025 at 4:03 PM
Topic: 1997 Expedition Lock Circuit Verification
Posted By: Blk02Xtreme
Subject: 1997 Expedition Lock Circuit Verification
Date Posted: August 17, 2004 at 5:38 AM
Finishing up this installation this morning on 1997 Expedition with factory keyless. Remote Start Alarm model is Viper 550ESP. I am planning on using the Pink / Yellow (Lock) and Pink / Light Green (Unlock) wires from the factory keyless module. Set the brain on the 550 ESP for negative pulse lock/unlock, per the factory Negative Pulse 'Type B' lock circuit. It seems as if all that needs to be done is to connect the, Green Harness4 / A [(-) Unlock] wire to the Pink / Yellow (Lock) wire, and the Blue Harness4 / C [(-) Lock] wire to the Pink / Light Green (Unlock) Pretty striaght forward, common Type B setup. I'm concerned about diode usage in this case though. Do the Pink / Yellow (Lock) and Pink / Light Green (Unlock) wires need to be diode isolated, or can I just connect the wires directly as stated above? I know some Fords shut down the module after a few minutes, want to make sure this is not one of them so the alarm doesn't go crazy. I realize this topic has been covered before, and I have read quite a few posts on the subject; many of the posts are not entirely clear though and I'd like final word if at all possible. Thanks much for your time and assistance! Regards, Matt J.
Replies:
Posted By: raydawg357
Date Posted: August 17, 2004 at 8:40 AM
You don't need to diode isolate these wires. Your year expeditions doesn't have the " wake-up" system. That comes with the newer models
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Do it right the first time
Posted By: tbirdman74
Date Posted: August 17, 2004 at 8:43 AM
shouldn't be anything out of the ordinary, just hook them in and tie em up. I just did a 97 Eddie Bauer about a week and a half ago, and didn't have any problems. But if I may, are you doing the windows also? And if you are, were they extremely hard moving windows or did they move pretty freely? Just wondering if it was all expiditons or just this one.
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If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!
Posted By: Blk02Xtreme
Date Posted: August 17, 2004 at 11:10 PM
Thanks for the responses, guys. Hit the wires direct with no problems, locks are perfect. tbirdman74 - I'm not doing window operation on this one. But it is a '97 Eddie Bauer, and the power windows all seem to move at different rates. Freely, but some noticiably slower that others.. odd..
Posted By: tbirdman74
Date Posted: August 18, 2004 at 1:48 AM
Yeah it is strange, on this last one, seperated window from regulator, and window moved freely by hand, and regulator went up and down freely and fast, but when I put the nuts back on the little studs coming from window, ran really slow, and burned a couple of low rate window modules. Finally convinced them to go with 530t, yet still had to use the resistor modification to get it to work correctly. maybe just certain vehicle insist on being a major PITA. Thanks.
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If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!
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