VW Golf Gti, Need Professional help

Hey all you pros out there !! I got a brain teaser for you all and just wanted to see who's man ( or woman  ) enough to figure out this for me seeing that I'm stumped. I have a 1996 VW Golf GTi and I need to know if the clutch wires are accessible inside the car or if it's outside in the engine bay boot where the clutch cable runs. Doesn't seem to be any wires attached to the pedal so I need some help.

Other thing is that I isolated the parking lights and verified that the wires that I used got 12 volts when the lights were turned on to the first position and I wired it according to the independant (+) relay diagram as normal, but no parking light flash when tested. The wires that went to the light side, both are receving 12 volts but no light flash ?? Any ideas ?

BTW: The lights operate as per normal with the relays wired into the system. All other functions are great aside from these two things. OK people..... line and help out a member in need :D

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

jeff heres is all the info I could come up with on the golf

park lights are grey/black (dr) and grey/red (ps)  (+) at light switch, and they are a split parking light system, have to use two S.P.D.T. relays or two 6 amp diodes to isolate.  This is what my info says, although I have never personally done one I dont think.  As for the clutch wires, I am of no help to you.  Best bet if no wires on or near pedal, look on outside of firewall, around resevoir if it has a hydraulic clutch, or on tranny.  Hope you find them.

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If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!

Heres something else that may be of use for the lights:

VOLKSWAGEN, GTI, 1996, Parking Lights+

Hidden release tab for light switch on upper left side of switch. Use relays to isolate the switch side of parking light wires from seeing 12v, or the igniton circuit will pulse with the light flash. It is also possible to use the hazard lights. The colors are BLACK/ white and BLACK/ green, and are positive trigger. They can be found at the alarm module or steering column.

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If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!

I found a service manual for the car, HERE, 56k DO NOT TOUCH THIS LINK. It is a zip and the manual is in pdf. Document 64 is full electrical diagram. Document 64 page 37 may be of some use for the starter circuit.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

hey jeff, i'm guessing you're installing a remote start on this vehicle. according to memory, the 1996 gti's do not require the clutch to be depressed prior to starting the car. again, i'm just assuming that you're trying to do a remote start, so you shouldn't need to find clutch wires at all. starting from 1997, the clutch does need to be engaged to start the car.

as for the lights, i'm stumped if you're stumped. i'm guessing you've found the right wires....it's really a simple connection and i've done many of these cars just simply using diodes to isolate. as tbirdbman said, grey/black and grey/red sound correct. if you're doing remote start, i recommend that you do NOT use the hazard lights.

i know they're really convenient to access because they're right at the factory alarm module, but don't do it because i've made that mistake before myself. those hazard lights go towards the brighter side of the 1157 bulbs at each corner of the car, which, as you know, are brighter and burn hotter. when you remote start and have the car running for some time, they heat up far too much due to being constantly on rather than intermittently, and end up melting the surrounding plastic. when the day comes that the bulb needs to be replaced (as all bulbs eventually do), you'll find that you can't remove the bulbs easily due to the surrounding plastic being melted out of shape!

Thanks for all the help guys !! I will try the remote start without the clutch bypass and as far as the lights go, I have all that information but still can't get the stupid lights to react properly. I have the isolation diagram for the relays to separate the switch from the lights and that all works fine ( nothing wrong with the output from the CPU either ). I'll try to do a diode isolation on it instead of the relays, but I'm not sure why it won't work with the relays ? I'll post my results.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA