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1995 Bronco, Blowing door lock fuses

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=38199
Printed Date: July 15, 2025 at 10:23 AM


Topic: 1995 Bronco, Blowing door lock fuses

Posted By: traceman
Subject: 1995 Bronco, Blowing door lock fuses
Date Posted: August 27, 2004 at 5:45 PM

This is a great site! To start, this is my first alarm install. I am putting an Autopage RF-310 in a 1995 Bronco. I do not have keyless entry. Everything is working great except the door locks. I researched this site before the install, and put in two SPDT relays. I have wired the 87 and 86 to 12 volt constant, and 85 to the alarm output. I cut the Pink / YELLOW wire in the passenger side kick pannel and ran #87a to the side going up to the passenger door switch and the #30 to the other side of the cut wire. Did the same for the Pink/Green. Now, all it does is blow fuses.  I took off the alarm outputs and tried to get it to work by grounding the relay wire, but that blows the fuses also. I ran the Green alarm wire to the lock side, and the blue alarm wire to the unlock side. Any ideas from you alarm experts? Also, what size wire and fuse should I be running for the 12 constant to both relays? I put the relays in the passenger kick pannel about 4-5 feet from the power source. Thanks so much!!




Replies:

Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: August 27, 2004 at 6:10 PM
sounds like you may have the switch and lock sides reversed on the doorlock wires... disconnect one and meter it... the switch side should have voltage on it when using the switch, the motor side wont.... if these are reversed it will blow the fuse everytime because you are taking a power to ground.....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979




Posted By: tbirdman74
Date Posted: August 27, 2004 at 6:20 PM
according to my notes, it is ESSENTIAL to use drivers switch when testing for switch and motor sides. The wires are much easier to access on the passenger side due to the E-brake blocking the drivers kick panel.   If I remember correctly, had the same problem about a year ago.

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If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!




Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: August 27, 2004 at 9:25 PM
swith your wires you hooked up, it should take care of the problem.

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2005 Toyota Corolla S
    1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!




Posted By: traceman
Date Posted: August 28, 2004 at 1:29 PM
Thanks everyone! I metered my hookup from the drivers side switch and sure enough the 30 and 87a were reversed. I switched them and everything works fine. Thanks again, and now time to donate to this site!




Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: August 30, 2004 at 12:26 PM
no problems mate... this is what it's all about.....

-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979





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