okay i'm going to attempt the install it myself.
honda accord 03 ex v6 AT
compustar 2wssr w/ 1 way remote. cm3000 brain. antenna box with BLUE sticker.
bypass module: PASS4 from Omega remote start
(this came with the compustar)
wiring diagram. for security and remote start.
both from directechs.com
k now here are some questions i have while doing my research.
1-do i need to use the 2nd relay? 2nd ign/acc/starter?
in the diagram. my car doesn't have 2nd ign/starter. but it does have 2nd accessory
2-in diagram my car have a key sense wire in the ignition.
my bypass module, from Omega require a key, and use a antenna ring around the ignition. can i connect the antenna wire to the keysense? if i don't want to give up a key, do i have to get another bypass or can i use the same one? i read that some DEI module 555? doens't need a key, will that work on my 03 accord
3-how do i do ignition lock? when the door lock when the car starts and when unlock when i remove the key? will it work if i wire up all the wire correctly? w/o extra module/programings?
4-on the brain connector #3 pin 5 and 6 (+)/(-) door trigger
from the diagram i see (-) door trigger, but not positive, where will that be in m y car?
https://www.directechs.com/directwire/wire_body.asp?action=select&yr=5234&product=Remote%20Start
5-connector #4 pin 4 and 5 (+)/(-) lock output
manual says "this wire is the (+) lock output that doubles as a (-) unlock output" and vice versa. what is this for and where can i find the connection in the car?
6-how can i do auto window up on arm? will this need xtra module?
thank you in advance to everyone that reply.
any further tips and instruction will greatly appreciated.
thanks again.
I would say you should install the 2nd ign might not be nessary, however it may help with problems down the road like check engine light... and crap like that..
Yeah i think dei makes a dei 555h, or something like that doesn't require a key..
DEI doesn't make a "no-key required" bypass module for your car. You can get a PKH3 from bypasskit.com that works.
Not the easiest car for a first timer.
Good luck running wires into the door for factory alarm arm and disarm. Might want to consider a HODL2 from bypasskit.com
Omega hasTransponder Bypass # DB-PKH3 NO Key.............
Constant 12 volts | WHITE | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS |
Ignition 12 volts | BLACK / YELLOW | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS |
Starter | BLACK/ WHITE | IGNITION SWITCH AHRNESS * |
Dome Light | GREEN/ RED (-) | GREEN CONN. BEHIND FUSEBOX |
Trunk Pin Switch | BLUE/BLACK (-) | DRIVER KICK PANEL REAR BODY HARNESS |
Parking Lamp | RED / BLACK (+) | WHITE CONN ABOVE FUSEBOX |
Power Lock | PINK/BLACK | GREEN CONN LEFT SIDE OF FUSEBOX |
Power Unlock | PINK/BLUE | TEST FROM PASSENGER SWITCH |
* Installing A Starter Kill Relay At The Ignition Switch Harness Before The Starter Wire Enters The Driver Side Fuse Block May Cause A "Check Engine" Light To Come On. Starter Wire Should Be Accessed After Fuse Block.
Window Up | D\ RED / BLK P\ RED / BLU D\ RED / WHT P\ RED / WHT @ EACH #211 | |
Window Down | F/ RED / YEL F/ RED R/ BLU/BLK R/ BLU/BLK MOTOR * | |
Ign Key Warn | | |
Trunk Release | YELLOW /GREEN (+) | DRIVER KICK PANEL #231 |
OEM Horn | GREEN/ YELLOW (-) | STEERING COLUMN HARNESS |
Headlights | | |
OEM Alarm Arm | | |
OEM Alarm Disarm | | |
* Due To Multiplexing Window Wires Must Be Accessed At Each Window Motor But All Are Reverse Rest At Ground Type Circuits
Tach Signal | BLUE/RED | ECM/PCM AT CENTER CONSOLE * |
Ignition #2 | BLACK/ RED | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS |
Ignition #3 | | |
Accessory | WHITE/ RED | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS |
Neutral Safety | | |
Brake Light | WHITE/ BLACK (+) | SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL |
Reverse Light | | |
Rear Window Defrost | | |
. * Passenger Side Panel Of Console- WHITE 31 Pin Connector PIN #25
-------------
MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
JWorm] wrote:
EI doesn't make a "no-key required" bypass module for your car. You can get a PKH3 from bypasskit.com that works.
Not the easiest car for a first timer.
Good luck running wires into the door for factory alarm arm and disarm. Might want to consider a HODL2 from bypasskit.com
hello, thanks for your help
i check bypasskit.com and it look good. but i can't order straight, only dealer are allowed.
my compustar have all of the functions from HODL2, correct me if i'm wrong.
what is the advantages/differents in HODL2 and PKH3
beside the obvious xtra functions?
i rather use all the feature in my compustar, then buying another black plastic box.
i check other site and found the same unit same product code (pkh3) but with a different brand.
like OMEGA
https://www.dragondistributing.com/omegaalarmaccess.htm
bottom page
CODE Alarm
https://www.audiooutfitter.com/store/PKH3.html
CrimeStopper
https://www.theinstallationshop.com/browseproducts/Crimestopper-Honda--Acura-Type-C-(7-wires-in-connector)-Transponder-Bypass-PKH3-II.html
can you tell me where to order the right one and not some mock up model?
thanks again for your help.
The reason why you would us the HODL2 is that all the connections are made inside the vehicle, otherwise you have to run wires into the door for your factory arm and disarm. Getting the two wires into the door boot is not that easy! This way you can connect the wires from your compustar to the HODL2. The PKH3 is bypass module for your honda.
shawn
snguyen wrote:
The reason why you would us the HODL2 is that all the connections are made inside the vehicle, otherwise you have to run wires into the door for your factory arm and disarm. Getting the two wires into the door boot is not that easy! This way you can connect the wires from your compustar to the HODL2. The PKH3 is bypass module for your honda.
shawn
okay, in that case HODL2 is a good choice. but the HODL2 is a bypass module just like the PKH3 right?
do you know any where i can purchase the HODL2?
thanks again.
The HODL2 is the accord doorlock and alarm interface kit. It will interface door locks, arm/disarm, trunk....etc. The PKH3 will allow you to bypass the transponder for you remote start.
last set of questions before i start working on the alarm
the compustar brain ask for both positive (+) and a negative (-) parking light output
i have both do i need to use both or which should i use?
the diagram say that some newer vehicle require a (-) output instead of the standard (+) output.
for my 03 accord, the (-) is found in the steering column cover and the (+) is found in a white plug above the fuse box
there are two pre-wired relays. one for the starter kill
the other for 2nd ignition, 2nd starter or 2nd accessory.
there is a constant 12v for the 2nd relay
if i connect a wire from that relay to a (-) negative 2nd acc/ign/starter 200ma ouput wire from another connector it'll give me a (+) trigger output on another wire in the 2nd relay
wat is all the 2nd acc/ign/starter for? and do i need this?! my car wiring diagram doesn't show 2nd ign/starter but it does for 2nd accesory.
compustar is asking for a (-)200ma trunk release. this let you open the trunk with the remote. diagram show a (+) trunk release not a (-) trunk release