I have an Ungo MS2005 which has been recently installed in a Volkswagen 76 Super Beetle. The car has power door locks and power truck. The MS2005 is a "remote-start" based alarm. However, because this car is a manual transmission, the wiring necessary for remote starting will not installed. Here's the problem... the parking lights and horn both have relays to allow them to be controlled by an alarm system. They are both negitive based. When the wire from the relay is grounded the lights will come on and the horn will sound. (respectivly), the way it is suppose to. Now the alam I have, has the outputs to "flash" the lights and "honk" the horn. But when I connect them to the alarm nothing happens, the relays do not even "click". Everything else works on the alarm. The doors lock, and when connected to a siren --it chirps, LED's go on, etc. Now I know for this alarm, the "light-flash" polarity can be changed from either a positive output to a negitive output, and It is set to negitive, however the lights still do not flash. The horn output is a 500mA negitive output, clearly for use with a relay. The horn is corrctly wired to a relay that will allow it to sound when the relay is grounded by the alarm (I have tested it manually as well by manually grounding this wire and the horn sounds.) I have used my multimeter to see what is happening at the alarm's light flash and horn honk outputs, but it displays no voltages across the outputs. And when checked for coninuity to ground when the the remote's buttons are pressed, the meter still displays infinate resistance. I am not sure what is going on. It is a brand new unit. I have put all of the proper jumpers in place, and made the necessary DIP switch settings. I have tried everything I can think of. If anyone could help I would greatly apriciate it. Thanks!
Bad brain !! Get warranty for this as it seems to be a defective CPU.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Are you sure it could be the brain. I mean this is a brand unit.
Doesn't matter if it's new or old....you always get a lemon sometime or another. If the outputs of the brain have no voltage when you activate the respective circuit, then you ahave a defective CPU and you will probably get a new one. From what you did in your post ( i would have done the same thing ) it sounds to me like it all checks out and the brain to me is defective.
Did you test the iwres with the red lead on 12 volts constant and the black lead to the target output wires on the CPU ? If the alarm CPU was functioning properly you should have gotten a momentary 12 volt reading on the DMM. If you did not then either the CPU is defective or the polarity did not change. Check with the leads reverse and have the black on ground and the red on the target wire. If the DMM reads 12 volts, then you did not change the polarity properly. Double check this with your connections and post your results.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Okay I've tested the voltages across the alarm's main power lead and the output leads. Here's what the DMM read.
Terminals Tested: Reading: Reading (Button Pressed)
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Main 12 V+ 0.367 mV NO CHANGE
Parking Light Flash (output)
Parking Light Flash (output) 0.007 mV 0.009mV
Ground
Main 12 V+ 0.896 mV 1.021 mV
Horn Honk (output)*
* Jumper set to negitive polarity
What do you make of this? Perhaps one of the componets, a diode maybe, on the PCB has broken down. I see what you were saying that when the button is pressed the DMM should have read the same voltage as the main power wire, since a path to ground is supposed to be made. But this is not the case. I am going to take it back and get another one.
Yup, sounds like a bad brain to me alright !! Take it back and they should be able to test it on the test bench at the place you bought it from.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA