Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Viper Remote Start issue

I have a really weird one here. I recently installed a viper 791 xv in my 2000 sunfire gt. The alarm works fine, but when I try to remote start is when I run into trouble. I push the button twice and the car flashes the lights and I heard relays clicking, and the fuel pump charges up, but then it just shuts down and restarts the start cycle... I know that the starter is hooked up right cause when you pull the fuse in the ignition wire and remote start it, the car will crank, but will not fire (obvisouly because there is no ignition power) but as soon as I touch that ignition wire back up, the starter dies out and it restarts its cycle. I talked with dei a bit and they told me they have no idea why it does it. I had a remote start in the car before the viper and it worked fine, so I'm wondering if its the module? have any of you heard of this or had problems with this? Thanks

Do you have an anti theft devices.

Notes:
NOTE: This vehicle has the passlock II immobilizer system that, when adding a remote start, must be interfaced with. Use DEI part 555t or 555L.

My car is factory equiped with passlock 2 which I have bypassed using the dei 555L module. That atleast worked correctly on the last alarm... and appears to be working correctly on this alarm. The passlock system is not capable of shutting down the starter motor itself, but rather shuts down the power to the injectors and fuel pump if a resistor code is not sent to the pcm when the key is physically turned in the ignition. The 555l is sending that resistance for me.

Thanks

Did the alarm learn the tach that if it set up that way.

ya, I learned the tach

does the shutdown diagnostis read anything

I don't know what the shutdown diagnostis is.. Does that have to do with the pc tool that you can buy for the alarm? Cause I don't have that.

no, its in the install manual. read the proceedure. look at the LED, comapre it to the number of flashes on the chart.

did you use both accy wires? and did you get the passlock wires right off the passlock harness, or further down where you might not have grabbed the right ones? also, what did you use for the tach?

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MECP certified installer

Go to page 52 of the instal manural. it tell of a few reason that why the car shut down.

Hey, I don't have the manual, I only have the install book. Is it the manual you can get online in pdf? I took from the passlock wires right after they come out of the ignition switch. I know they are right.... the old remote start on the old alarm worked fine... and I didn't change them when I put the new one in. I used the heater ac wire, the ignition wire, and the starter wire. And of course their power wires. I didn't use second ignition, because I don't have one in my car.

i just said install manual, not owners manual. and actually, the table of contents says shutdown diagnostics .

and i asked if you used both accy wires. there are two. orange and brown.

if it was a passlock problem the car would crank and die. if its not cranking at all you have a problem either with the tach, starter wire, or you arent energizing all of/the right ignition switch wires. i assume you have a cut starter wire and you soldered the purple wire towards the motor side and the green towards the key side, right?

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MECP certified installer

Oh, sorry, I mis read your post, sorry. I kinda thought I answered your second question however by saying that I hooked up the heater ac(orange). I don't think that I have any power going to the brown wire. I thought that was just like power windows and stuff. I know the starter wire will work cause like I said, if I unplug the fuse from the ignition wire on the relay sat, and then remote start it will crank the engine, but obviously the fuel pump and stuff won't fire up. My starter wire is in fact cut. It runs in the green, and out the purple then straight out my firewall. Oh, and thanks on the shutdown thing, I hadn't seen that in the book. I did that and it flashes a three for low or no tach. That is weird to me cause I would expect no rpm cause the engine wasn't turning... perhaps I just am not understanding properly. I have my tack wire hooked up to a wire comming out of the coil pack setup that is white with violet I believe, and it read like 9 volts ac when the engine was running.

Thanks

did you hookup the neutral safety wire?

if the neutral safety wire (BLACK/ white) wanst grounded, the remote start sequence wouldnt start at all, no parking lights or fuel pump. take your piink/white heavy gauge ign2 wire from the viper and wire that up to what ever accy wire you still need to hook up, and program the viper option (menu 3-9) to 2nd accy.

also, on a sunfire the tach shouldnt read that high i dont think... but thats the right tach wire.

try the 2nd accy and see if that changes things. if you didnt need it than techsoft and directwire would say (not needed for remote start), but you do.

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MECP certified installer

Ok, does it say the brown wire is needed? or the second ignition? Cause I thought the second ignition was for like the automatic transmission or something. It was listed as a white wire on my car. I have a manual, and don't have a white wire at my ignition switch. And yes, as you say if the neutral wire wasn't hooked up it wouldn't do anything... plus it would throw that code for it. I have mine hooked to a magnetic switch that is attatched to my shifter which shows ground only when the shifter is in top dead center.

I will hook the pink with white wire up to brown wire if that might help. Also, if you want, I can hook the tack wire to a fuel injector if you think that might be a better place for it.

Thanks!

I tried the 2nd accesory and all it did was power up my ability to roll down the windows and put my top down... and turn my amps on cause they are wired into that brown accessory cause I use a factory head unit. There is something that is denying it the ability to crank because I put it into voltage checking mode and it powered up the ignition wire, and it sat there for quite a bit then tried again... blah blah blah... then I tired turning engine checking off and just forcing it to crank for .6 seconds, and it wouldn't crank, but it just stayed in "running" mode until I shut it down. Could there be some anti grind or wire from my dei 555l that could be causeing problems?

sounds like you might still have a Passlock problem.... BTW, some passlock systems interuppt the starter and are not a fuel shutoff system.... i learned this the hard way after spending about 3 hours on an 03 Alero, only to find i had a bad passlock ground... the vehicle wouldnt crank at all

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Hood pin switch????

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JKJ

The Alero must have a newer or different paslock system then the sunfires cause sunfires only cut fuel, but will still crank. The hoodpin switch would act similer to the neutral saftey... it wouldn't do anything, or it might notify me that its open then not do anything. Ultimately it doesn't matter cause I found that I had the starter wires out of the relay sat backwards. I had the green running out the firewall and the purple switch side. Thats why it wouldn't work... She works like a dream now. Thanks alot guys for you suggestions, I really appreaciate them!!

"i assume you have a cut starter wire and you soldered the purple wire towards the motor side and the green towards the key side, right?"

thats why at the end i asked if you had the starter wire cut right. atleast its working now posted_image

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MECP certified installer

I aslo hav ethe 791 and mine start and immediately goes dead. I was wondering if you could help me on mine since you got yours to work. If i turn the key on it will crank and run fine. Not sure if I have the right tach wire because I can't find the coil so i just hooked it to a gray/white wire from the cluster. Wonder if anyone knew. It' a 2003 Jeeep wrangler 2.4L thanks

what color is your key, grey or black?

and for the tach, grab the grey at the coil or coil pack. to find it, follow the spark plugs to the coil pack, and there it is. look in each harness and AC test any grey wire you find in those harnesses.

also you have one ign, and two accy wires.

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MECP certified installer

I don't have the transponder key, I just have the black key. It has those spark plugs that are deep in a hole in the engine, but I followed the wires and all four go to a pack with the 4 inputs on it, but I see no gray wire. Out of the back of the pack is three wires but no gray one. Thnks

I would just take from the injectors then. Take the wire that is not the same color on all the injectors and run the tach wire to that and learn it. If you hear the fuel pump and the gauges come to life, then it cranks, and wont start then it is either pass lock or rpm's. Do you have a bypass module for passlock? If its passlock then the first time you start the car remote start after starting with the key the car should fire up, then die out, then when it retrys it won't fire at all.(it will run for a second or so off the gas that was allready in the lines) I think the the theft light on the dash would blink too or something.