Wiring a PKH1 bypass

I'm trying to wire this bypass into my 2000 Prelude. One question... What is that brown wire on the bypass? It says it is a "negative out when running". What does it mean and what should I connect it to?

On your remote starter unit you will have a ground out when running wire. Connect this wire to the bypass unit brown wire.   You want to turn this bypass unit on temporally during a remote start and off the rest of the time or else you are defeating the purpose of the anti-theft immobiliser. The ground out when running wire is basically a ground signal that the remote start unit send out during a remote start. Once the key is place in the ignition, the remote starter is disabled and so does the ground signals that it is sending to the bypass module. I hope this helps.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Oh, ok, I see now what it's for.

Now, don't these bypasses make the immobilizer system vulnerable? A thief could simply power the starter wire and at the same time ground this brown wire and start a car, right?

Literally speaking yes, but if the unit is hidden and install well out of reach, tape up with black tape it does require a bit of work and knowledge as well as time to get it to start up.    

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Ok, I just installed the PKH1, but when I remote start the car, the starter is just keep cranking the engine and the car won't start :( Why is that? I know my remote starter is perfectly fine, because it used to work with another bypass that uses a key and it also worked if I left the key in the ignition switch. What could be the problem?

With the PKH1, you must use the BLACK head key to program the module. Did you do this ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

The BLACK key is the one I normally use to start the car? That's the only key I have.

In the manual it says the red LED will blink once the bypass is programmed. Well, it blinks and seems to crank the engine, but something must be missing or just ain't right...:(

did you move the jumper back to normal from program ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Yes, I did. The LED stopped blinking as it said it will in the manual. Anything else that could cause this?

If the module programmed properly, then it would be your wiring from the remote start to the ignition wires. Did you test the ground out when running wire to ensure a (-) when remote started ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I know for a fact that remote starter works fine. The wire that sends a (-) during the remote start procedure is fine too, because it used to work with my old bypass module. And if this wire wouldn't work properly, then how would the engine crank? If it cranks, that means the key part (bypassing immobilizer) is fine, and if it's fine, then PKH1 is actually activating and does its job, but something, somewhere has a problem that won't let the engine catch and start. That's what I'm thinking.

I believe the bypass module is the main cause for the car not to remote start if I read you post correctly. Try this, leave the black key in the ignition and do a remote start. Did the car start up? If it did, then you have wire everything up correctly on the remote starter side of things. Now take the black key out of the ignition and try to remote start. If the car cranks and won’t fire up then you know that the bypass module is not set up properly.

“the wire that sends a (-) during the remote start procedure is fine too, because it used to work with my old bypass module. And if this wire wouldn't work properly, then how would the engine crank?”

Check you ground out when running wire again and see if you got a signal coming out of it and that it is correctly connected to the bypass module. Even if you don’t have a ground out signal connected correctly to the bypass module the engine will still crank.

“ If it cranks, that means the key part (bypassing immobilizer) is fine”

Correct, if you mean the immobilizer system inside your car is working. It is because it sense’s that someone is jacking the car.

“ and if it's fine, then PKH1 is actually activating and does its job, but something, somewhere has a problem that won't let the engine catch and start. That's what I'm thinking.”

NO, the PKH1 is activating but it’s not sending out the correct message to the immoblizer system inside your car to let it know that you are trying to do a remote start on the car and not jacking the car.

Try reprogramming the PKH1 unit again. I think this is the problem. I don’t have a list of bypass module in front of me so check and make sure you got the correct bypass module made for your car.



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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

vbel]I wrote:

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know for a fact that remote starter works fine. The wire that sends a (-) during the remote start procedure is fine too, because it used to work with my old bypass module. And if this wire wouldn't work properly, then how would the engine crank? If it cranks, that means the key part (bypassing immobilizer) is fine, and if it's fine, then PKH1 is actually activating and does its job, but something, somewhere has a problem that won't let the engine catch and start. That's what I'm thinking.

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Number 1 waste of time in the installation bay is ASS-U-ME something . NEVER assume anything especially when it comes to electronics. If something worked in one vehicle, doesn't mean that it will work properly in another. Have you contacted the manufacturer of the module to see if it is possible to use this module for 2 diffrerent vehicles ? The hard writing of the encrypted code may only allow you to do this once, not twice.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

>Try this, leave the black key in the ignition and do a >remote start. Did the car start up?

Not anymore. It used to start like that before I installed the PKH1.

> If it did, then you have wire everything up correctly on > the remote starter side of things.

So, you're saying then probably I connected wrong wires together? Hm, I doubt it, but I can of course recheck that.

>Check you ground out when running wire again and see if >you got a signal coming out of it and that it is >correctly connected to the bypass module. Even if you >don’t have a ground out signal connected correctly to >the bypass module the engine will still crank.

Ok, I'll check that tonight. Could it be that the signal is not powerfull enough specifically for PKH1? The wire is also split in 2, one goes to the clutch bypass (directly, no relay) and the other to the immobilizer bypass module. As I said, the old Omega bypass module that takes a key inside worked just fine.

>Correct, if you mean the immobilizer system inside your >car is working. It is because it sense’s that someone is >jacking the car.

No, I meant the immobolizer is bypassed and the car should start. When the immobolizer is NOT bypassed and you have no key in the ignition, then the car won't even crank and a "key" will blink on the cluster panel.

>NO, the PKH1 is activating but it’s not sending out the >correct message to the immoblizer system inside your car >to let it know that you are trying to do a remote start >on the car and not jacking the car.

Then it's a programming issue and I tried to reprogram it twice yesterday and nothing helped, though the LED acted just as it was suppose to...meaning the programming part went succesful.

>Try reprogramming the PKH1 unit again. I think this is >the problem. I don’t have a list of bypass module in >front of me so check and make sure you got the correct >bypass module made for your car.

Yeah, it's correct, for a Honda Prelude 97-01.

>If something worked in one vehicle, doesn't mean that it >will work properly in another. Have you contacted the >manufacturer of the module to see if it is possible to >use this module for 2 diffrerent vehicles ? The hard >writing of the encrypted code may only allow you to do >this once, not twice.

No, no, this was all done in the same car, with 2 different bypass modules. I had to get a new one because I wasn't able to make a second startable key for my car, 'cause I don't have the red key. So PKH1 is my only hope to have a remote start in my car.

"Ok, I'll check that tonight. Could it be that the signal is not powerfull enough specifically for PKH1? The wire is also split in 2, one goes to the clutch bypass (directly, no relay) and the other to the immobilizer bypass module. As I said, the old Omega bypass module that takes a key inside worked just fine."

Run a relay.


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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Relay to the clutch? It's working fine, without the relay. Or to the bypass? I'm thinking may be temporarily ground it to the chassis and that will give it a stronger ground signal. May be that will do something...

First things First, put the black key in the ignition cylinder. Get the remote starter to work with the key in ignition first. Worry about the bypass afterward. If you haven't got the car to start with the key in then you haven't wired up everything correctly. Check and check and again untill you get it to start with the black key inside the key cylinder.   

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Everything with remote starter/alarm is wired up correctly! It used to work with the old bypass. Used to start with the key in the ignition. Now it doesn't! Cranks, but does not start.

Ok, so miracles do happen! I rechecked everything, all my wiring, tried to run a constant ground and all that - same story. Then I unplugged the bypass, tried to start with the key and doesn't start (well, duh!). Plugged it back in, reprogrammed it and then it worked like a charm!! :)

Well, stuff like that did happen before to me with electronics, but I gotta say, the build quality of PKH1 is the worst I ever saw...it looks like home made crap.