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So I go to start the vehicle this morning (newly installed ProStart CT-3300). It's below freezing here and it struggles to start. The crank speed doesn't seem as fast as it should be. It tried a few times and then I cancelled it. I went out to start it with the key and she fired right up. It seems to crank faster when using the key.

So did I miss something? I know the vehicle has a second ignition wire, and according to the wiring info on this site, it is identified as ...

Ignition2 - BLACK / YELLOW or BLACK/ Green - Ignition Switch Harness Cold Start Wire

I remember seeing this wire. Should I be somehow tieing into this wire as well? What does "Cold Start Wire" mean?

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

Sounds like you aren't giving the starter wire enough voltage. I would think this would be due to a poor 12 volt constatnt wire(s) connection. Wire gauge too small on primary power connections (12 volt+ supply, and or starter wire).

Read the voltage output of the starter wire with a dmm during a remote start and then compare to a manual start.

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JKJ

Murph,

I connected the unit to the tach wire (near the coil) and ran the autotach programming. It seemed to pick it up pretty quick.

JKJ,

I connected both power wires from the module (red wires) to the one power wire in my ignition harness. Is this maybe where I'm loosing power? Should I try connecting these to another source? Maybe directly to the battery with a heavy wire?

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

This or these constant feed wires should be near the ignition switch. Basically you want the same wires that feed the ignition switch. These wires should be at least as heavy as the car's starter wire or larger.

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JKJ

Thanks JKJ,

The vehicle ignition wiring harness has one fairly heavy wire with constant power. I tied BOTH wires from the starter module into this one wire. The new wires were slightly smaller than the single supply wire.

I'm thinking of disconnecting these two new wires and bringing a new heavy feeder wire from another 12V source - possibly directly from the battery. The installation manual talks about this as a potential "lack of power" solution.

Do you think this might be my problem?

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

Good idea especially if the install book addresses this partitcular problem and solution....Please make sure to add a fuse to any wire you are going to add to the battery within 18" of that connection at the battery. That make sense? Also don't forget to use a gromet anywhere the wire passes through the firewall at least. Let me know if it works.

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JKJ

Thanks again.

The 2 constant power wires coming from the module each have fuses in them (I believe they are 30amp). Do I still need to fuse the new feeder? If "YES", what amperage should it be and is it supposed to be 18" from the battery?

Also, what gauge should the feeder wire be (distance from battery approx. 6 to 8 feet).

Thanks again for the help - - I love the internet... ;-)

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

I would still fuse any wire from the battery. Yes, place the fuse 18" or closer to the battery. Depending on the gauge wire you use and the load you plan on carrying on it will be factors in determining the fuse. But if you are only going to suppliment the remote start unit with this wire then I would fuse it at 30 amps also.

The whole purpose is to make sure that wire will go dead if it shorts. If any part of the wire shorts between the battery and your first fuse there will be nothing to keep it from from catching fire, melting something expensive, or randomly welding things.

Good luck.

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JKJ

Thanks,

So, any recommendation on wire gauge - - just to make sure I have the power I need?

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

10 to 12 gauge. Just make sure it is larger if not as large as the heaviest ignition wiring at the key switch.

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JKJ

Thanks again Man - I'm hoping I'll get a chance to try this tonight.

I looked in the installation instructions and it says to ensure the OEM supply (if not using the harness wire) is fused at greater than 30 amps. I'll see what's available at my local auto parts store.

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

is this for the nissan? did you hook up both starter wires??

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Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta

extreme1 wrote:

is this for the nissan? did you hook up both starter wires??

Yes this is for a 1992 Pathfinder. I think there were 2 ignition wires (one smaller than the other), as I mentioned in the initial post. Do I need to hook the second one up as well?

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

Actually, I just looked at the manufacturer's instructions and there is an additional high-current output lead in the module's wiring harness that I didn't use. It says it can be used for 2nd Ignition, 2nd starter or 2nd accessories wire (depending on the jumper settings). The module has a high-current, programmable 5th relay (programmed by the jumpers).

I guess I should try hooking this lead to the second Ignition wire on my OEM harness.

Do you think this would work?

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

All wires must be attached.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

Just to expand on Teken's post a little-- you should definitely hook your cars Ign2 wire (BLACK/ green???) up to that programmable 5th relay, and program that relay as 2nd ignition. I'd try this before trying running new wire-- I think it has a better chance of working.

Me

Thanks for all the help Guys, I think I (with your help, of course) have fixed it up.

I installed that fifth relay on the second wire yesterday. The wire in the OEM harness was actually a Starter only wire (not ignition). So I set the jumpers on the module to "Starter", tested it for current, and hooked 'er up. Cranking seemed better right away. So I let it sit over night and tried again this morning. It was not as cold as the previous morning, but still pretty cool. She cranked over real well and fired up as quick as she would using the key.

I THINK I GOT IT !!!!

Now I just need to figure out why my trunk lead is sending a continuous signal rather than a pulse, and I should be set.

Thanks again for all the help - - like I said before, I LOVE THE INTERNET !! The information available is absolutely amazing.

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

The trunk release will be a programmable setting. Look for stuff about "Latching" vs. "Press and hold".

Me

Thanks "Me". ;-)))

I assume this setting is programmable, but the manufacturer's literature does not seem to get into this. The manual does talk about "pulse" (for trunks, etc) vs. "press and hold" (for sunroofs, etc.).

What my mudule is doing is sending a continuous signal. In other words, I press and release the button - the trunk (rear window hatch) solenoid releases the latch. But instead of the signal being a "pulse", allowing the latch to close immediately afterward, the signal remains, keeping the latch open. This signal seems to remain constant until I physically pull the connectors off of the relay (which I used to reverse the pulse signal from (-) to (+)). I'm not sure what's up with this.

Any thoughts on this?

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Zilverado,
Backyard Mechanic
1986 Chevy Truck & 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

Slow Cranking