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bonneville trunk release

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=40849
Printed Date: May 08, 2024 at 5:52 PM


Topic: bonneville trunk release

Posted By: piddle
Subject: bonneville trunk release
Date Posted: October 13, 2004 at 11:19 PM

I installed a remote starter/alarm that included the keyless entry for my 95 Bonneville.  Everything worked except for the trunk release which I attempted to interface at the trunk release switch on the driver's door.  I opened the driver side door and found a blue wire on one side of the trunk release switch and a ORANGE / black on the other side.  The volt meter indicated pressing the switch put 12 volts onto the ORANGE / black wire.  This lead me to think that all I needed to trigger the release was to have the remote put 12 volts (using a relay) to the ORANGE / black wire.

However, after I tried to open it with the remote, it didn't release the trunk AND the trunk switch doesn't work anymore!  I found the wiring for installing alarms at this web site indicates using the blue (-) wire in the Drivers Door Boot.   If thats true then the trunk release switch is really switching in ground from the ORANGE / black wire and NOT the 12 volts I originally thought.

Now the question is how do I fix the switch?  Where does the ORANGE / black wire go?  I bought a Chilton repair manual but it doesn't give all the wiring details (no trunk wiring details).

Also there are several blue wires coming out of the door. How I find the correct one?    

Also the remote's installation wiring for this car said to use the BLACK/ white wire in the driver's side kick panel and use a relay to switch in 12 volts.  However, I'd prefer to skip the relay if all I need to do is use the remote's output which happens to be ground when activated.




Replies:

Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: October 23, 2004 at 9:50 AM
Check fuses.

What I usually do to test a possible negative trigger on most vehicles is to use a fused jumper. All it consists of is a, ATC fuseholder with 18ga leads on it, and a 1A fuse in it. Blow the fuse when taking something to ground, then you know it can't be driven with an alarm's low current output, and you need a relay. The blue output on the factory switch should be the trigger for the trunk release at the switch. What did it have on it for voltage? 12V? less than 12V?

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......




Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: October 23, 2004 at 12:42 PM
If your vehicle has trunk ajar indicator on the dash, then the *RED / black* wire which is located low in the drivers kick panel, may be used.

The trunk is (-) negative BTW, and IF you havent noticed the orange / black wire can be obtained from either the trunk light, or the switch.

You require a relay, redardless to do this properly.


30 = To trunk release switch / soleniod.

85 = Fused +12 VDC

86 = (-) Trigger output from RS / Alarm unit.

87 = (-) Chassis ground, affixed with a star washer, SS screw, proper ring terminal, and dielectric grease compond.



Regards

EVIL Teken . . .




Posted By: piddle
Date Posted: November 28, 2004 at 9:20 PM

First I want to say thanks for the help!

I recently had my mechanic print out the wiring info when he fixed an unrelated issue with the bonniville so now I see what I did wrong.  The ORANGE / black wire is switched to ground by the transaxle gear selector when the car is in park or neutral (which makes sense from a safety standpoint).  So when I wired it wrong I was putting 12 Volts to the gear switch to ground which obviously burn't out the switch.

Now I have two solutions, 1) wire the relay on the other side of the trunk switch (blue wire) and have a relay switch in ground from the RS/Alarm unit.  OR 2) use a relay to directly power the trunk release via the BLACK/ white wires to run to it.

Just wanted to let everyone know what the problem and the correct wiring was.  Thanks again for the help.






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