Hi - first post
I notice that every published method for bypassing Passlock security (for a remote starter) invloves cutting the security wire that goes to the lock cylinder. I don't know about anybody else, but I absolutely hate cutting factory wires. I much prefer to leave the factory wiring intact so that there is no chance that I will be stranded.
I examined that circuitry for the ignition on my 98 Sonoma and found that the factory bypass resistor is "open circuit" when the ignition switch is off, or moved to the acc or run positions. The resistor is "brought in" to the curcuit when the ignition switch is moved to the crank position. The resistor is "kept in" the circuit when the ignition is released back to the run position.
Therefore, during "remote starting" the ignition switch is NEVER moved to the crank position, and therefore the factory resistor is ALWAYS open circuit. Even after you put the key in the ignition and move it to RUN, you have not moved it to CRANK, and therefore the circuit is open. Since the circuit is open, you can put a bypass circuit in parallel with the factory resistor. That is, you need only ATTACH your bypass circuit to the existing wires without cutting them. Your bypass circuit would be triggered by the remote starter's bypass output, and would use a relay to "switch in" your bypass resistor across the factory wires. You also want to "seal in" this relay after the car is started (just to prevent the security light from illuminating). You can do this with relays (I used CMOS logic as it is more reliable than relays and works up to 18V with no prob).
I feel a lot better knowing that I haven't cut anything and it should should always be as good as factory. In addition, I notice that some of the published methods will "switch in" the bypass resistor, even during normal starting with the key! That's just asking for trouble.
Cheers
Or you can use a GMBP or PLDATA from trilogix. 4 wires no cutting. done.