2004 F-150 alarm/remote start (long post)

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=41978
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 3:33 PM

Topic: 2004 F-150 alarm/remote start (long post)

Posted By: Preyhunter
Subject: 2004 F-150 alarm/remote start (long post)
Date Posted: October 19, 2004 at 9:43 AM

If anyone would be so kind as to answer these questions for me, it would be greatly appreciated. In the posts above, it states that each door trigger needs to be diode isolated if the vehicle is equipped with factory keyless entry. I understand what a diode is and that I would need one for each door, but which direction does it go? What, exactly, does diode isolating each door do for me functionality-wise? Would it be easier to wire them differently somehow with a different configuration to give a different functionality? I'm asking because, as it currently stands, I press the OEM KE remote button once to unlock the driver door and a second time to unlock all doors. Is the purpose of diode isolating the door triggers to maintain this functionality? I would prefer that all doors unlock at the single press of a button on the alarm remote that I want to install. Would eliminating the diodes do this for me? Am I missing the boat on this and the diodes have something to do with triggering the alarm and nothing to do with KE functionality?

I have all of the components I need to install my Autopage RS-850LCD, but this diode isolating business is the only thing that's keeping me from attempting the install. I think I have a good enough handle on the rest of it. Again, any help with this would be greatly appreciated. If anyone in the DFW area would like to drive to Keller and watch over my shoulder to make sure it's done right, there would be food and any beverage of your choice available to you. ;) I really want to do this myself, I just need some guidance particularly in the diode area.

Replies:

Posted By: Preyhunter
Date Posted: October 31, 2004 at 2:21 PM

I have many questions about the input and output harnesses on the alarm and would appreciate any help I can get with these questions. This is an Autopage RS-850LCD alarm and I bought a DEI 556U for the PATS bypass for a 2004 Ford F-150. I think the only output function I'll be using is the Remote Start, no other functions such as window rollup or anything. If I'm wrong in my thinking about outputs, let me know. I am a complete noob at alarm installs. I have found all of the wires in the truck to make connections to except for the door triggers, which I was planning to substitute with the dome light. Will that work?

INPUT connections:

1. WHITE/ Black (-) neg safety shut down input for hood pin switch
I'm not planning to use the hood pin switch for the alarm or for remote start safety reasons, anything special I should do with this or just not connect to anything?

2. WHITE/ Violet (+) pos safety shut down input for brake switch
Connect this to brake wire

3. BLACK/ White (-) neutral safety switch input & (-) Remote start toggle switch input
Do not connect this one either?

4. Blue Zone 2/Instant trigger ground
Ground this

5. WHITE/ Green (-) Diesel wait-to-start
Will not use

6. Green Zone 3/Negative door pin trigger input
Not used?

7. Violet Zone 3/Positive door pin trigger input
Connect to dome light wire? (Dome wire is +)

8. WHITE/ Blue (-) instant start and turn off input
?

9. WHITE/ Red Tach
Connect to tach wire

OUTPUT connections:

1. Yellow (-) Ignition 3 control output
Not used (?)

2. BLACK/ Violet (-)200mA Channel 6 programmable output
?

3. BROWN / White (-)200mA programmable output
1. Horn Output (Factory Default Setting) or
2. Factory security rearm signal output
For horn output, a relay would be needed?

4. White (-)200mA Dome light control output
I believe this is just for interior illumination, don't need?

5. BLACK/ Red (-)200mA Channel 5 programmable output
?

6. BLACK/ Green (-)200mA programmable output
1. Channel 4 programmable output (factory default setting) or
2. Key sensor bypass output
?

7. Gray (-)200mA Channel 3 (trunk) output
not used

8. Pink (-)200mA programmable output
   1. 2 steps door unlock output (factory default setting) or
   2. Factory Security disarm signal output or
   3. start status (shock sensor bypass control) output
?

9. ORANGE / White (-)200mA grounded output when disarmed
10. Orange (-)200mA grounded output when armed
Ground both?

I may have door lock/unlock questions later, but these are the ones that are really blowing my mind. I can put scans of the instructions and/or diagrams up later if needed (I would have done it for this post, but I don't currently have easy access to a scanner). I wouldn't be opposed to someone in the DFW area helping me out by looking over my shoulder while I install. I could make it worth your time if someone wants to do that.

Could someone PLEASE help me out with this?

Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: October 31, 2004 at 2:53 PM

INPUT connections:

2. WHITE/ Violet (+) pos safety shut down input for brake switch
Connect this to brake wire *Yes GREEN (+)

3. BLACK/ White (-) neutral safety switch input & (-) Remote start toggle switch input
Do not connect this one either? *Tape up

4. Blue Zone 2/Instant trigger ground
Ground this * NO --Tape up

5. WHITE/ Green (-) Diesel wait-to-start
Will not use *Tape up

6. Green Zone 3/Negative door pin trigger input
Not used? *Tape up

7. Violet Zone 3/Positive door pin trigger input
Connect to dome light wire? (Dome wire is +) *Yes BLACK/ BLUE (+)

8. WHITE/ Blue (-) instant start and turn off input
? *Tape up

9. WHITE/ Red Tach
Connect to tach wire *Yes Coil or Injector

OUTPUT connections:

1. Yellow (-) Ignition 3 control output
Not used (?) *could use for ByPass Module

2. BLACK/ Violet (-)200mA Channel 6 programmable output
? *Tape up

3. BROWN / White (-)200mA programmable output
1. Horn Output (Factory Default Setting) or
2. Factory security rearm signal output
For horn output, a relay would be needed? *should

4. White (-)200mA Dome light control output
I believe this is just for interior illumination, don't need?*Tape up

5. BLACK/ Red (-)200mA Channel 5 programmable output
? *Tape up

6. BLACK/ Green (-)200mA programmable output
1. Channel 4 programmable output (factory default setting) or
2. Key sensor bypass output
? *Tape up

7. Gray (-)200mA Channel 3 (trunk) output
not used *Tape up

9. ORANGE / White (-)200mA grounded output when disarmed
10. Orange (-)200mA grounded output when armed
Ground both? * NO For Starter/Ignition Kill Tape up if not used

-------------
MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Posted By: Preyhunter
Date Posted: November 01, 2004 at 11:33 AM

Ok, I think I have all of that so far. My 556U documentation says only 3 or 4 of the 6 wires coming off of the wire harness will be used: black - chassis ground, red - +12V constant, and blue - status output from remote start. The Violet (+) keysense wire from the 556U may POSSIBLY be needed. Does that sound right? I'd just connect the blue wire to the Yellow (-) Ignition 3 control output as stated in mo12v's reply to my original post. Since the keysense wire is pointed out in the wiring info for the truck, can I assume that I will need to connect the keysense wire from the 556U, or should I try without first?

Now to the door locks. It looks as if the truck has a negative trigger door lock system (correct me if I'm wrong). All I have to do is connect the unlock and lock wires from the alarm to the unlock and lock wires from the truck and that will activate the relays in the truck, not requiring extra relays. Is that right?

It looks like I'm close to having all the info I need to complete this. mo12v, thanks a ton for the info you've already given me.

Posted By: Charles_R_H
Date Posted: November 01, 2004 at 1:51 PM

3. BLACK/ White (-) neutral safety switch input & (-) Remote start toggle switch input
Do not connect this one either? *Tape up

If you just tape up this wire, remote start will never be enabled

you really should hook this wire up to a ground toggle switch, the mechanical working on your vehicle re-connecting your battery will appreciate it a lot better than the vehicle starting itself magically while he is under the hood. if not then you need to ground this wire

in the last ten or so days I have installed the autopage 750 remote start into a 2002 nissan frontier, and the 855 in a 95 chevy pickup

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ELECTRONICS RUN OFF OF SMOKE, WHEN YOU LET THE SMOKE OUT THEY STOP WORKING

Posted By: Charles_R_H
Date Posted: November 01, 2004 at 3:32 PM

mechanic, sorry not mechanical LOL!!!

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ELECTRONICS RUN OFF OF SMOKE, WHEN YOU LET THE SMOKE OUT THEY STOP WORKING

Posted By: Preyhunter
Date Posted: November 01, 2004 at 3:39 PM

If I wire up the hood pin switch, can I ground the input #3 wire and net the same effect?

Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: November 01, 2004 at 6:10 PM

Whhooops..........Charles_R_H is right.......Guess I'm going blind from this posting stuff
U could use a toggle switch on #3 ..
I still would put Hood PIN switch on #1 Law suits R bad

-------------
MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Posted By: Charles_R_H
Date Posted: November 03, 2004 at 9:59 AM

got power windows??

you should install the auto page window module as well, priddy easy to install

gives you 1 touch up and down from your driver's side switches as well as venting from transmitter, roll up when armed, and other functions

i ran into a few bugs with it, but put in a diode here and there and it works great

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ELECTRONICS RUN OFF OF SMOKE, WHEN YOU LET THE SMOKE OUT THEY STOP WORKING

Posted By: johnnydi77
Date Posted: November 03, 2004 at 6:50 PM

ground the BLACK/ white or starter will not work

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John J. DiStefano Jr.

Posted By: Preyhunter
Date Posted: November 04, 2004 at 10:20 AM

Getting into the power window module at this point is a little too much for me. This is my first attempt at an alarm installation and I'm barely keeping my head above water as it is. I'm reposting these questions that I posted earlier...

Ok, I think I have all of that so far. My 556U documentation says only 3 or 4 of the 6 wires coming off of the wire harness will be used: black - chassis ground, red - +12V constant, and blue - status output from remote start. The Violet (+) keysense wire from the 556U may POSSIBLY be needed. Does that sound right? I'd just connect the blue wire to the Yellow (-) Ignition 3 control output as stated in mo12v's reply to my original post. Since the keysense wire is pointed out in the wiring info for the truck, can I assume that I will need to connect the keysense wire from the 556U, or should I try without first?

Now to the door locks. It looks as if the truck has a negative trigger door lock system (correct me if I'm wrong). All I have to do is connect the unlock and lock wires from the alarm to the unlock and lock wires from the truck and that will activate the relays in the truck, not requiring extra relays. Is that right? Will that unlock all of the doors at once?

Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: November 04, 2004 at 10:32 AM

Depending on your units output. Usually U can wire it that way, but U may need 2 SPDT Relays for a stronger Ground.
Yes it will UNLock all doors at once, unless you have a 2 Door UnLock wire. Then you will need to wire it at the Driver Door UNLOCK wire for Driver Door 1st.

Power Lock	PINK / YELLOW	DRIVER KICK PANEL
Power Unlock	PINK/GREEN	DRIVER KICK PANEL

Negative Pulse Door Lock Circuit

-------------
MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Posted By: davedyer79
Date Posted: November 04, 2004 at 3:29 PM

No, you shouldn't need the keysense and just tie the blue into the Pink/green and the green into the pink / YELLOW. Did this same setup this last weekend in my friends 04 F-150. Your really should look into the window module as stated above. If you can tackle this alarm the Autopage window module will be a breeze. I would also recommend the toggle switch idea in the center console or somewhere under the dash. The last thing you need is a Certified Ford Tech getting his arm cut off when servicing your truck. Could save a lawsuit. Just a suggestion. Good luck.

-------------
davedyer79

Posted By: Preyhunter
Date Posted: November 05, 2004 at 10:34 AM

Again, wouldn't the hood pin do the same thing? It would disable the remote start if the hood is up?

Posted By: Preyhunter
Date Posted: November 08, 2004 at 6:20 AM

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that helped me out with the info I've requested over the past week or so. I finished the install yesterday and everything is working properly. There's no way I would have gotten it done without the help I received in this thread. I do have to say, however, that it all started making more sense to me the longer I thought about how it should all work and especially the input-output relationship.

Again, thanks for all the help. It is greatly appreciated.