Hello all,
I'll admit it right off, I'm looking for a short cut here. I think I've already found a short-cut to wiring both door triggers independently. Seems there's a single wire lead after the GEM that triggers the 'door ajar' light on the guage cluster that can be tapped. Makes sense, huh?
It got me doing more thinking. The GEM on the ford shuts down after a few minutes, thus immobilizing the power locks. There's some wiring you can do (that's a little much if you ask me) that allows any aftermarket remote to first wake-up the module, and then unlock the doors (by using the 2x pulse). My question is this. If all you're doing is re-supplying power to the door locks (by waking it up), why not just run a constant lead to the locks? Am I missing something there, or just over simplifying?
Thanks all.
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Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark; professionals built the Titanic!
You shouldn't have to wake up the GEM on a 2001 truck (regular negative pulse doorlocks) but you will if it's an '02. It's not too hard and you won't need double pulse. You can just diode isolate the negative unlock output from the alarm. Connect one of the legs to the unlock wire (of course) and tie the other leg into the Yellow/Black driver's door pin wire at the central security module behind the right side of the dash panel. If you operate the doorlocks, you'll hear the doorlock relays clicking inside of it. Now, keep in mind that this is only the case if the truck came with OEM keyless entry. If it didn't, you have to do a 5 wire (reversal rest at ground). If that's the case, you don't have to wake up the GEM since your relay pack will have constant 12 volts. I hope this helps some.
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Mike
Sales/Tech Support - KICKYRIDEoCOM mobile electronics
MECP 1st class-Security Specialist