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CRIMESTOPPER ON 99 CIVIC

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=4309
Printed Date: July 27, 2025 at 5:26 AM


Topic: CRIMESTOPPER ON 99 CIVIC

Posted By: asianboi
Subject: CRIMESTOPPER ON 99 CIVIC
Date Posted: October 09, 2002 at 3:03 PM

Can someone take a look at that diagram and tell me if I really need a relay for the DOME light.  By the way, my siren came with two wires, but there is only one BROWN wire from the alarm's brain.  How can i hook that up?  Can you please explain to me as much as you can. Thanks a bunch!

posted_image




Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 12:32 AM
Yes you will need a relay because most systems that have a dome light circuit in it's board only gives this wire a 200ma output current, enough to flip over a relay but not enough to energize the dome light. The BROWN wire is the 12 volts + of the siren. The other wire on the siren you GROUND to the frame of the car somewhere near it.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 6:34 AM
Only use the relay if you want to hook up domelight supervision. That means if you want the dome lights to light up when you disarm the alarm. If your asking about the dome light trigger wire, you will only need to use the green wire from the alarm to hook up straight to the negative trigger of the car. You don't need to hook up the violet wire. Hook up the brown wire from the alrm to the red of the siren. The black from the siren you must ground to the car.

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My Personal Installer Note: Connectors are easy, neat, and professional. But do you know how to crimp properly?




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 6:49 AM

Ok, lets say that I want to hook up the "domelight supervision", I would definitely need a relay right?

Can you look at the diagram again where you see the BLACK/ WHITE(dome light output).  There is a relay in between the wire.  It seems to me that I need to put the relay between the BLACK/ WHITE wire that is from the alarm.  Does that mean I have to cut it in half or something like that? Why there has a + sign in the circle?  Where does that connect to? What about the box that has the + or then an arrow down, what is that?

Another thing, Can you look at the Orange wire too? I can see that I would need to hook at wire to a relay #86, but what about #85, where does that connect to, is it IGNITION ON & START? Is that mean #85 is hooking up to another wire that is called the IGNITION on & start?

Then I have to CUT the starter wire and wire one end to #87A & the other end to #30?

Where can I find the Passenger UNLOCK output wire in the car, is it the same wire for the unlock wire??

I'm really sorry to confuse yall.  I hope my questions are clear enough so you guys can help me with the explanation.

Best regards,

Brian





Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 7:00 AM

85 goes to the ignition wire for the starter kill.

As far as the dome light, you need to test the the wire that lights up the domelight. Most likely it is positive. In the box you are asking about, you need to hook up the same kind of power (negative or positive that would light up the dome light).

The relay is between the alarm and the dome light to show where you have to put it. If you notice, negative is coming from the alarm. You will use the relay to convert to positive in order for the domelights to work.



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My Personal Installer Note: Connectors are easy, neat, and professional. But do you know how to crimp properly?




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 8:12 AM

"The relay is between the alarm and the dome light to show where you have to put it. "

So the BLACK/ WHITE wire has to be connected to be connected to Relay # 86 instead of #85?  The picture is kinda blurry, and I'm very sorry about that.





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 8:37 AM

posted_image



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 8:47 AM

ahhh thanks for the picture! Let me know if I understand this.

To sum up, #86 goes to alarm dome light(the wire from the alarm)
#30 to the pin Door(which mean I do not need to connect the violet wire to the (-) pin door, since it will be used by #30)
#85 will be connected to a 12volt wire or to any fuse that has 12 volt??
#87 will be connected to a (-) or ground

If I am right, then I have to get extra wires for those legs.(#85,#87)
Sorry for sounding so dumb





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 8:53 AM

You still need to connect the GREEN ( not VIOLET ) to the alarm system otherwise the alarm system won't activate if the doors are open. You can piggyback wires when using a relay.so make sure that you take the GREEN wire of the alarm and attach it to the door trigger wire of the Civic ( LIGHT GREEN/ RED ) and to pin 30 of the relay. Other than that, everything else you posted is correct.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 9:26 AM

Oh no.. just found out something and I want to ask.

There is a yellow wire in the diagram that is connect to the FUSE BOX then that little circle with the - sign.  Can you tell me what that - in the circle is.. it is the keywhole like one on the bottom right corner?

IF NOT, then I guess the yellow wire can be hooked to the fuse box inside the car right?

Can you tell me which wire is for the PASSENGER UNLOCK OUTPUT? BEcause it is shown in the diagram.

Thanks a million for your great effort! You guys are the bomb!!!

Brian





Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 11:16 AM

the yellow wire just goes to the ignition wire of the car right by the steering column.

One wire should control both doors to unlock , from the alarm and from the vehicle.



-------------
My Personal Installer Note: Connectors are easy, neat, and professional. But do you know how to crimp properly?




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 12:22 PM

Sorry again!

Ohmz said: "the yellow wire just goes to the ignition wire of the car right by the steering column."

Then what should I connect to to the relay #85 ORANGE WIRE? Isnt that another ignition "on & start"??

There are two different ignitions wires?





Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 12:30 PM
I usually use the same wire. Just tie it in.

-------------
My Personal Installer Note: Connectors are easy, neat, and professional. But do you know how to crimp properly?




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 10, 2002 at 12:48 PM

Thank you everyone for helping me out. I will install it this friday or in the weekend.  Again, thank you. I hope I wont burn anything up..

Regards,
Brian

P.s All of you are the bomb!!! Keep up the good work.





Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 11, 2002 at 8:34 AM

Hi it is me again.

I found some of the wires that I saw in the wiring diagram for my honda civic in this site.  I wanted to test out the LOCK & UNLOCK wire.  What I did was:
I used the fuse tester(I think that's wat it called), and punched it in the GREEN/ orange wire to see if it unlocks or not, BUT I dont see anything happens to it. Yes my other end of the tester is connected to a GROUND.  I turned my key to the ignition level too, but I still do not see it.  Is it how it is?

I want to see if it works or not before I splice the wire.  Sorry I am not good with explanation.





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 11, 2002 at 9:27 AM

I would not suggest using a light tester and probing wires that you are not sure is the target wire posted_image. You may find yourself a Honda bill for a new BCM or CPU in the near future. PLEASE go and spend about $ 30.00 at a Radio Shack or something and get a digital multimeter. This $ 30.00 will save you time and costly repairs to delicate electronics in the vehicle. The wire that you are testinf ( GREEN/ ORANGE ) should test GROUND (-) when you press the door unlock switch and 12 volts when nothing is done. It is only a pulsed signal as well so DO NOT LEAVE the probe sitting on the wire or else you will fry the motor.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: October 11, 2002 at 12:07 PM
You won't see a ground output from the UNLOCK WIRE with the tester you have if you grounded it; it has to have 12 volts constant. Jeff is right.. you should get a proper tester. If thats the correct wire you can PULSE the wire with a ground. (YOU CAN EASILY BURN SOMETHING IF YOU LEAVE IT CONSTANT) Once again do not try this unless you KNOW you have the CORRECT wire.

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My Personal Installer Note: Connectors are easy, neat, and professional. But do you know how to crimp properly?




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 4:59 PM

Hello again, I'm dead! I"m in the process of cutting the starter wire.  I cutted it and connected as shown. Below picture is what I did.  I cannot start my car now.  I dont know what I did. Can someone help? huhuhposted_image

posted_image





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 5:26 PM

Do you have the right end of the starter wire to the right pin out. Try reversing the two wires on 30 & 87.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 9:37 PM

Starter wire is BLACK/ WHITE right? SO everything I hooked up seems right, but now I have to reverse the 30 and the 87 right? I"ll do that tomorrow morning.  Please respond back though so I can start on it

Please keep in mind that I hooked the organge wire to #86, Ignition wire to #85, the starter wire to the KEY HOLE to #30, and the other end to #87.
By the way, i use a 4 pins relay instead of the 5 pins.  I dont have #87A on my relay, in which it requires in the diagram. DO you think this is a problem why? One more question, where is the best place to put the sensor? Please respond to all my questions as possible so I can finish my project up tomorrow.

Thanks Jeff & the other members for your great help!

Brian





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 11:50 PM

This is the way you should have it hooked up:

  • 86 - Ignition
  • 85 : ORANGE wire from alarm
  • 30 : Motor side of START wire
  • 87a: Keyside of START wire.
  • 87 : NOT USED

The BLACK/ WHITE wire you had to cut in half...one side is the keyside and the other is the motor side. You need the 5 pin relay in order for this circuit to work the way I have above. If you are referring to the impact sensor have it attached to a  flat plastic or metal piece in the front of the car ... either the driverside kick panel or the metal bracing that covers the steering column.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 11:57 PM

SO i did followed the instruction correctly, but my problem is I dont have a 5 pins relay. I cannot find it at AutoAdvance parts, nor AutoZone. =( That's why I had to buy the 4 pins.  Is there another way I can do with that 4 pins?? =(





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 9:20 AM

We normally do not use 4 pin relays for any of our applications here at the shop. It's not a hard peice to  find, go to your local electronics store and they will have it. Auto parts store will not necessarily have this relay ( I don't know why though ?? )



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 10:02 AM

Got the 5 pins relay. I can start my engine now. But when I hooked the white wire(parking light) to the one in the Alarm's brain, I am no longer be able to lock the door or unlock it with the remote. HOwever, I can open my trunk with the remote though.  Do you think I burnt the brain?  I took the white wire off and tried it again, checked fuses, nothing is burnt but still doesnt work.  Is there a way to test the brain?  What seems to be the problem now? I"m dead?





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 10:14 AM
Where is the WHITE wire coming from ?

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 10:18 AM

Jeff,

 The white wire is from the green connector.  Which is where the HONK wire is.  Do you have AIM?





Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 10:24 AM

=( i dont remember if i connected the whtie wire from the alarm to the parking light(green connector) or not.. but i put a NEgative ground in that white wire from the green connector..

Remember that fuses are still fine everything is ok.. still can open my trunk with the same remote,

Brian





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 12:44 PM

 What wire did you hook up to for the parking lights ? This should have been a RED / BLACK wire that test (+) 12 volts !! NOT GROUND. If you tried to ground out the output of the WHITE wire you may have fried something.... check the fuse on the WHITE wire to see if it is blown ( use the DMM to check this, instead of a visual inspection ). Check to see if the RS unit is outputing a (-) signal to the door lock wires GREEN & BLUE on the CS unit. Post your results.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 4:19 PM

Jeff,

 I think I screwed up.  I think I hooked up the wire to the wrong wire that's why it is no longer working. Yes, you are right, it should be RED / Black not the WHITE wire from the GREEN CONNECTOR where the HORN wire is.

I think i hooked up the GREEN wire(from the unit) instead of the white.  I totally forgot which wire I did it and have NO CLUE why I did such a stupid thing.

I checked all the fuses, yes, they are in shape.

I took the connector that has (GREEN, RED, BLUE wires) off the UNIT, and tested with ground and able to lock/unlock the door.  I hooked it back to the UNIT, but i have no luck with the remote.

I can pop my trunk with the button on the remote, BUT not lock and unlock nor arm or disarm the alarm.  I can press the OVER RIDE PROGRAM BUTTON(in the diagram shown) and it does work, BUT still cannot get the lock/lock or arm/disarm. 

I think my unit is dead or something. 





Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 5:04 PM
 You can test the output from the alarm with you tester. See if you get anything. Is your parklight working fine with the alarm? Make sure that your ignition is off. Make sure you have the right ignition wire connected to the alarm.

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My Personal Installer Note: Connectors are easy, neat, and professional. But do you know how to crimp properly?




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 6:58 PM

"You can test the output from the alarm with you tester. "

Test the alarm output? What do you mean and how do you do it?

"Is your parklight working fine with the alarm?"
I cannot test it because my alarm doesnt work

"Make sure you have the right ignition wire connected to the alarm."
First time, I did not need to connect the ignition wire, and i still can disarm/arm, lock/unlock.

Even after I hooked it on.. it still work, but after I up the wrong wire.. it screwed

I connected the ignition wire to my Radio ignition wire.

Brian

P.s Brain dead right?





Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 7:22 PM
Do you smell anything burnt from the alarm. I still have hope




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 9:07 PM

Ohmz,

  NO I did not smell anything burnt. LoL...  A friend of mine smelled it too and he did not smell anything burning.  THe thing that I think is weird is if the alarm unit is burnt then how the heck did it it work with the trunk release and how come I could press the over ride button(to set up the sirens sounds and stuff).  You know what I mean??  I unit might be defected?





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 10:45 PM

Did the door locks ever work ? Chances are you may have burned out a resistor in the door lock circuit. Bring it back to the dleaer and tell them that it's a warranty item and see what they say ?



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 6:04 AM

Yes the door locks used to work with the remote control, but now it doesnt.  I still can lock/unlock my door manually, which mean nothing is burnt inside the car.

"Chances are you may have burned out a resistor in the door lock circuit. "

Is this resistor is from the UNIT?

"Bring it back to the dleaer and tell them that it's a warranty item and see what they say ?"
I bought it through ebay. ahhhhh.. Can i call the manufacture instead?





Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 1:58 PM
So.. no one can answer my questions above? *sighs.. =(




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 4:44 PM

Have you tried testing the output of the lock / unlock wires with a DMM to see if you get a (-) signal through the wires ? If you have not, you might want to do this , otherwise you will not know for sure if it's a blown locking/unlocking circuit in the alarm module or just your wiring. If in fact the unit is fried, contact the person that you bought it through on eBay and ask them about warranty and if they will take this item back for exchange. If they do not, kindly ask them for the manufacturer contact information and go through the manufacturer.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: asianboi
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 5:32 PM

what does DMM mean?  I can lock and unlock the doors by sticking the tester through the wires that are connected to the lock/unlock doors wires. 

Anyway, i think something is wrong with the alarm.  It was working find but not it is not. I called the manufacturer and they told me to send it to them since i havent bought it for a year yet. I"ll keep you guys posted ok. Thanks for your great help!!!





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 5:48 PM
A DMM is a digital multimeter and you have to test the wires coming out of the alarm so you can see if there is in fact a (-) signal going to the lock wires.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA





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