fusion alarm in a 1988 Chrystler LeBaron

I am(or trying to) install a fusion f2000 alarm in a 1988 Chrystler LeBaron and have run into 2 problems.

#1. 5-wire reversing polarity door locks: I tried wiring a relay network as shown on this site, using (-) alarm unlock and lock trigger, with no luck. From behind the switch, I wired the relay in, and nothing happens when I use the alarm's lock(arm)/unlock(disarm). Also, when attempting to lock and unlock the doors with the switch, the wires heat up, doing nothing. Someone mentioned to me that I need to use a DLM(is this a door lock module, who makes it? can I build one easily) for each door, wiring directly to the lock motors.

#2. (-) door triggers. driver door, passenger door, and trunk triggers: When the key is turned to the run position, there is no current in these wires, so long as the doors or trunk are closed. When the key is in the off position, however, there is negative current in the wires, instantly triggering the alarm. I wired the 3, using 1A blocking diodes also as shown on the site. Whats happening here, and how do I get around it?

As always, this site, and all who have answered any of my questions(along with those who will in the future) are awesome. Thanks guys.

I am(or trying to) install a fusion f2000 alarm in a 1988 Chrystler LeBaron and have run into 2 problems.

#1. 5-wire reversing polarity door locks: I tried wiring a relay network as shown on this site, using (-) alarm unlock and lock trigger, with no luck. From behind the switch, I wired the relay in, and nothing happens when I use the alarm's lock(arm)/unlock(disarm). Also, when attempting to lock and unlock the doors with the switch, the wires heat up, doing nothing. Someone mentioned to me that I need to use a DLM(is this a door lock module, who makes it? can I build one easily) for each door, wiring directly to the lock motors.

• A DMM is a digital multimeter and you use this to test the wires to make sure that each wire is being fed the proper current. Make sure that you are using the ORANGE and PINK wires for the LOCK  & UNLOCK wires.

#2. (-) door triggers. driver door, passenger door, and trunk triggers: When the key is turned to the run position, there is no current in these wires, so long as the doors or trunk are closed. When the key is in the off position, however, there is negative current in the wires, instantly triggering the alarm. I wired the 3, using 1A blocking diodes also as shown on the site. Whats happening here, and how do I get around it?

• It doesn't matter if the key is in the ignition or not for the door trigger. You must not have the proper wire. It's a YELLOW (-) in the driver kick panel. It will test 12 + when the door is closed and (-) when the door is open.

As always, this site, and all who have answered any of my questions(along with those who will in the future) are awesome. Thanks guys.

 I know what you are talking about when you say you have door lock problems on your car. I would like to tell you that if you folowed the correct wiring procedures that are indicated on the installation diagram you did everything right. The Fusion f-2000 alarm came out defective with the on board relays, they have some wires crossed inside. I installed 2  f-2000 alarms in 2 different cars and everything worked except the door lock part of the alarm. If you can return them get credit for them.

Also on those alarms the starter disable relay harness has a diode on it that should not be there. if you decide to keep it, you can eliminate it. If the diode has not been eliminated it might have fried a resistor in the brain. If you open it you can see it fried and can cut it out and replace it w/ a jumper wire.