Hello,
I am a novice when it comes to alarm installations. I am an electrical engineer and have done many audio systems in a car, but never the alarm, and was hoping for some guidance.
I purchased a remote start/alarm system (https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/dll?ViewItem&item=7932846319) which is suppose to come with everything I need for a basic install. In reading through the directions I have some questions. I do have the map for my car specifically (99 Cirrus https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1998-99&make=Chrysler&model=Cirrus&ID=17501&type=Alarm) but am a little confused on some terms;
Remote Start Circuit;
(starter harness) It comes with three relays and it looks like I have to hook up 5 wires, and the others go to my control module. They colors are yellow, red, blue and 2 brown. I can see from the ciruit diagram that I need to hook the Yellow to the Start module (which is also yellow on this car), It looks like the 2 brown wires go to the ACC (which I believe is the "Accessory" wire?) and the on position (I have NO idea what wire this is, is it the ignition wire?) The diagram also has the red wire which is suppose to go to a positive in that circuit, but I am lost as to where it goes...does it go right to the battery?
There is also a few wires that come off of the starter module (RED, GREEN, and YELLOW). From the diagram it looks like the Yellow connects to the Relay modules yellow wire? The green goes to the hand brake (which I believe would go to the + Brake wire). Where does the red go?
In the second wire harnes I have 4 wires (please see diagram at page where I bought the unit for a diagram) purple, white, blue and orange. It looks like the orange, white and blue wires are for a door trigger (which I am not installing). The purple wire goes to the Ingnitor....is this needed?
Questions from those paragraphs:
1. Does the ACC stand for the "Accessory" wire
2. Where should the other brown wire go in the remote starter harness?
3. Do I hook up the red wire to direct power, ie +12v somewhere on the fuse panel in the starter harness?
4. Does the yellow wire that comes out of the extra cable connect to the additional Relay module that I have yellow wire?
5. Can I just splice in the + Hand brake wire to the green wire in the harness?
6. Can I eliminate the orange, white and blue wires for the door trigger since I am not installing one?
7. Where do I put the purple wire for the ignitor?
Alarm wiring:
Keyless Entry wires:
It comes with 6 wires, and in my wiring scheme for the Cirrus, it only has a WHITE/ green wire for the lock and unlock. It says that I must use a + trigger through a 620 ohm resistor to lock and a + Trigger through a 2.7k resistor to unlock.
Questions for this paragraph:
1. How do I hook up the 6 wires that come to this kind of car?
2. Do I need to get resistors and play with that? If so, what amp resistor should I use and how?
3. There is also 2 brown wires in that alarm wiring that goto a "Direction Light"....what and where is this?
I know that this must seem like a ton of questions, but I am wanting all the facts before I start and hope that one of you would be kind enough to guide this novice. I am good with these things, I just have not done this particular thing and really want my wife to feel safe in her car.
I thank you in advance for your assistance!
David



Alright, I can't see the details on the alarms diagram where the 3 relays are connected then go to the key cylinder. But The Yellow is for the starter I am sure and I want to say that the 2 browns are actually Ignition outputs, which would mean the Blue is for the Accessory. When is a 2nd wire for anything it is going to be a 2nd ignition ouput before a 2nd Accessory. I cant see but I bet the two brown wires must be coming from the middle relay in the picture and I can see the relay is labeled different so it is likely a douple pole double throw type to control 2 circuits like 2 ignitions.
Red goes to the battery like you thought, but you can just grab it in the ignition harness next to the starter acc and ign wires. Its the first wire on the wire diagram you have: Pink/Black. The other red wire with the fuse also goes here. This wire gives power to the unit. The red at the relays powers the relays.
The yellow wire goes to the optional starter kill relay in the upper left of the picture. This is a very basic security measure and if you are not installing an alarm you may or may not want this installed. It might b nice if it also acts as an anti-grind relay.
Green is for e brake which is only required if you have a manual transmission.
The door trigger wires ARE not needed like you said.
The purple wire IS needed to detect when the engine has started. It sure doesn't look like that great of a setup since it is just having you wrap the wire around a spark plug wire. 99.9% of units have you solder this wire to a tach source. Wrapping it around like that does work though on units like you have. I had a customer bring me one and I just had to try it to see if it really worked. The starter uses a timer to engage the starter and then monitors that wire for a few seconds then shuts off if it doesn't see the tach signal. It must only require a faint signal.
Direction lights is a funny way of describing it, but then again you now have "8 min running time and auto shutoff if you don't drive car" which is "good for cold winter warming up the engine"
Those must be for the parking light output. It looks like they are positive, but why would there be 2? Typically when there are 2 wires on a unit one goes to either 12v+ or chassis ground depending on the vehicle, and the other wire goes to the parking light wire on the vehicle.
Locks: single wire system: you need to find almost exactly the right resistence with no more than 2 resistors for lock and 2 for unlock, that is if you cannot find it with one.
Look at Picture 3 positive trigger diagram: cut orange and ORANGE / black and tape them off they dont get used. Yellow and yellow black go to Pink/Black in ignition harness. They should be fused at 10 amps. The White goes to the lock ressitor and the WHITE/ black goes to the unlock resistor then both get connected to the WHITE/ green wire on the vehicle.
Good luck
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J Rilla
Owner/Installer
Thank you very much for your response J Rilla, I will let you know how the install goes this weekend!
One more question, if I am wiring both of the triggers for the door locks using a positive trigger, shouldn't I put a diode in series with the resistor to insure no damage is done from the other signal. Or is it fine since its running through an internal switch?
When you say wrapping it around a spark plug wire, you don't mean directly, do you? I wouldn't want to mess with the resistance of those wires....right?
Also, should I use a 10 amp resistor, or what value for the power should I use?
Thank you again so much for your reply, it is very, very much appreciated!
David
No diodes needed for door locks.
Wrapping a wire around the spark plug wires will only read the signal, and shouldn't interfere with it. It sounds weird, but you just take the wire - insulated and all and wrap it around one of the cables going to any spark plug. If you put a meter on the other end of the wire it will read in AC voltage. I would think around 1 volt AC. you should also be able to connect to a tach source which I recommend.
Hey you're the electrical engineer, you tell me: right?

Sorry I couldn't resist.
You can actually use 1/2 amp resistors, and you dont need a fuse, I mentioned that as a standard practice of mine to remind people to fuse things.
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J Rilla
Owner/Installer
I may be the engineer, but I ALWAYS ask the technicians if they are experiencing abnormal results, so that's why I asked you having done many of these, the expert in the back end!
Thanks again for your help, I will let you know how it goes....I really appreciate it!
David
i just wanted to say that i am thinking about getting the same alarm so i will be comming back here for some info also
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Jrilla.... think of it as a ghetto style inductive pickup. Wrap a conductor carrying AC such as a sparkplug wire with a few turns, and lo and behold, there will be a very marginal amount of AC voltage induced into the coil. Kinda neat, really.... didn't think companies were still using that method of getting a tach signal to the brain. Last unit I had anything to with that did that was a Head Start back in mmmmmmmmm 1993 or so.
Gus
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......