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97/98 ford f-150 door lock issue

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=4409
Printed Date: July 23, 2025 at 7:59 PM


Topic: 97/98 ford f-150 door lock issue

Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Subject: 97/98 ford f-150 door lock issue
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 10:45 PM

The driver door lock switch inside of this truck works fine by hand, although using the alarm in which a viper 550esp is connected was wondering what problems this may have. When you lock using the remote it still try's to lock for a couple more seconds, unlock is fine, as well as the switch. Could the actuator be bad(not likely), could it be programmed for pulse locking?posted_image

thanks,



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!



Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 11:31 PM

I'm not sure about the options available on the DEI unit but some other modles that I have installed has a programmed lock duration of .75 seconds, 3 seconds and double pulsed .75 seconds. Check the programming for this option on the Viper.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 11:38 PM

Will do,

Do you think this may be the problem most likely?

As always thanks Jeff!posted_image



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 12, 2002 at 11:51 PM
If the OEM switch operates the door locks properly, then it's most likely the programming of the alarm lock output. You can test the output of the lock wire with a DMM and use a watch or stop watch to see what the duration is ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 12:00 AM

Thanks Jeff,

I'll post the results tomorrow night.



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 5:37 PM

I had the same problem once with a DEI alarm. Sound pressure, the problem should be with the alarm, programing the lock.                                      

It was kind of weird to figure out how to program the alarm's options. I mistakenly programmed the door lockoutput to be double pulsed.



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My Personal Installer Note: Connectors are easy, neat, and professional. But do you know how to crimp properly?




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 9:57 PM

I re-programmed the entire alarm still no luck! The only other thing that I can think of would be the relays for the door locks. The wires for it are Pink / YELLOW for lock negative trigger, and unlock is Pink/light green reverse polarity right? What is the layout for relay connection is this truck for the door locks? I can check this, could be a bad connection.



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 11:28 PM
Velocity Motors wrote:

Hey mobiletoys; Here's what I have for the 2000 Ford, this might sound redundent but maybe you didn't see something that I can help with: POWER LOCK--------------pink / YELLOW POWER UNLOCK----------pink/green Non-keyless versions are 5 wire ( located in the drivers door harness) Keyless versions are negative trigger ( located in a gray molex plug to the right side of the steering column ) LOCK MOTOR---------------pink/black UNLOCK MOTOR-----------pnk/blk or RED / org If you go straight to the motor wires you can activate them with a (-) or (+) current ( test the target wires with the switch and see what you get. Apply this polarity to the target wire after wards to replicate the switch toggle of the unlock /locking motion. This is some information that I encountered with a 2001 Ford F-150 truck last spring. The system had a keyless entry modules from factory and the trigger type was A ( - ) for the door lock system. I found the DOOR LOCK wire in the keyless entry module above the drivers brake pdeal ( PINK / YELLOW ) and the UNLOCK was in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL ( PINK/LIGHT GREEN ) . It is in the taped loom of wires coming along side the kick panle from the boot. Jeff Installer / Owner

This is what I have for the Ford F-150 door lock systems. The year will not matter as the models did not change from 1997  - 2001



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 11:39 PM

Hey Jeff,

I'mposted_imagesorry. Never did one of these before and now i'm face with repairing one of them. The above post will require relays right? If so is the above a 5 wire alternating? How would the relays be connected? I see the diagram for a 5 wire alternating but I don't see all the above wires being connected as the diagram. I guess that I've been faced with easier alarm installs and I want to learn to do the more difficult ones.

Thanks,



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 13, 2002 at 11:53 PM

Hey Sound Pressure;

You need to go into the door for all the wires needed for the 5 wire alternating door lock relay circuit. Your best bet is to cut the wires at the switch ( so you have switch side and motor side ) and then run the 4 wires into the dash area of the truck and attach the 2 relays by the remote starter like it has pictured here: https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w Post your results.... it's an easy installation, believe me .... the first time is always the worst.... after that........ it's all good posted_image !!



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 12:18 AM

Ok here's where I am still lost on this.

The four wires I see cut them from the switch as you said. Won't you end up with eight wires cause if you have Power lock-pink / YELLOW, power unlock-pink/green, that would be four wires there once you cut them and run them as well as the lock motor which is pink/black,unlock is pink/black or RED / orange right would be another 4 wires? Now on the relay's #87a on the first relay would be pink/green switch while # 30 motor unlock would be the other side of that same cut wire right? Then #87a on the other relay (lock) would be pink / YELLOW switch while #30 would be motor side of that same wire. Now what happens to the other two wires Lock motor pink/black and Unlock pink/black or RED / orange? I know I am confusing the hell out of myself and know it has to be much more simple than the way I'm making it to be. Sorry Jeff.posted_image



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: mobiletoys2002
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 7:58 AM
im having a problem with the ford f 150 as well but i do know that once those wires are cut the pink/green and pink / YELLOW that is all you need you dont have to touch the motor wires.The way you posted for the relay is corect and that should work see im having trouble finding the damn pink / YELLOW wire myself.




Posted By: mobiletoys2002
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 8:06 AM
Velocity Motors wrote:

Hey Sound Pressure; You need to go into the door for all the wires needed for the 5 wire alternating door lock relay circuit. Your best bet is to cut the wires at the switch ( so you have switch side and motor side ) and then run the 4 wires into the dash area of the truck and attach the 2 relays by the remote starter like it has pictured here: https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w Post your results.... it's an easy installation, believe me .... the first time is always the worst.... after that........ it's all good !! Jeff Installer / Owner
see velocity that is what i also dont understand if i did not go into the door how would i get between the switch side and motor side of that door where i get the wires from??? I figured it woulkd be easier to go into the door itself because you would be able to see where they went. I hate door locks and i never done this type before and i always dreaded this day (lol)and now it is here. So am i able to even get these wires at the passenger door if i decide to go into one of the doors which one should i choose??





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 9:39 AM

Hey Sound Pressure:

Here is your questions from a couple of posts up:

"The four wires I see cut them from the switch as you said. Won't you end up with eight wires cause if you have Power lock-pink / YELLOW, power unlock-pink/green, that would be four wires there once you cut them and run them as well as the lock motor which is pink/black,unlock is pink/black or RED / orange right would be another 4 wires? Now on the relay's #87a on the first relay would be pink/green switch while # 30 motor unlock would be the other side of that same cut wire right? Then #87a on the other relay (lock) would be pink / YELLOW switch while #30 would be motor side of that same wire. Now what happens to the other two wires Lock motor pink/black and Unlock pink/black or RED / orange? I know I am confusing the hell out of myself and know it has to be much more simple than the way I'm making it to be."

You only need to cut two wires ( the lock and unlock wires on the driver side ) *** This is only if you have a base model because most other models use the Type A (-) trigger. Have you found out which system you have in the Ford ??? *** After you cut the two wires , extend these 4 wires with primary wire to the inside of the cab. Make sure you mark on these wires that you run into the cab " UNLOCK MOTORS SIDE" & UNLOCK SWITCH SIDE" and so on........... now attach the 4 wires according to the wiring diagram from this site for the 5 wire alternating. Post your results.

With regards to the LOCK MOTOR and UNLOCK MOTOR... these are two TOTALLY DIFFERENT connection . What I mean is that you can access the actual motor trigger with these wires instead of going through the switch( using a reverse polarity instead of a 5 wire alternating ) . The target wires for the LOCK MOTOR and UNLOCK MOTOR is a (+) trigger through a reverse polarity relay configuration. This means that you can hook up the keyless entry either way, but you are trying to use both methods in one .... can't do that. Choose either the reverse polarity through the LOCK MOTOR and UNLOCK MOTOR wires or go through the switch and use the 5 wire alternating configuration.

I hope this clarifies this for you and if there are any more questions please email me or post your results.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 14, 2002 at 9:44 AM

Hey Mobiletoys2002.... found that you can go through the passenger door for the door lock switch with the 5 wire alternating configuration, but this is only if you have the base model, otherwise the target wires are separated in two different spots ans use a Type A (-) tigger system. The notes that I have also say that the color changes to a RED / GREEN for lock and PINK/GREEN for unlock ( reverse polarity ) for the Crew Cabs.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: October 16, 2002 at 10:14 PM

Thanks guys,

Now I understand. I appreciate all the help. Sorry it took me a couple of days to get back and reply.



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!





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