2000 F150 RS install trouble

Just studying the wiring diagram,  I think I have the orange and violet wire crossed.   Can anyone confirm this? 

You didn't power up all the necessary IGN wires on the truck. These are the ones required:

IGNITION|dk. blue/lt. green  |+  |ignition harness           
SECOND IGNITION|gray / YELLOW         |+  |ignition harness           
** THIRD IGNITION|lt. blue/pink     |+  |ignition harness           
ACCESSORY|RED / black           |+  |ignition harness           
SECOND ACCESSORY|BLACK/ green         |+  |ignition harness

** Power this wire if vehicle is equiped with only rear anti-lock brakes. Vehicles with all wheel anti-lock brakes do not have this wire.

For the tach wire use an injector wire instead ( uncommon colored wire ). The tach MUST be programmed and accepted by the remote starter or it will not work properly.

Jeff,

Thanks for the response.  My truck has 4 wheel abs, so the third ignition wire is not present.   I will try the other tach wire. The GREEN / WHITE coil wire was listed on the Directwire wiring information sheet as the correct wire,    but I will change to the injector wire tommorow. 

The directwire sheet also shows the starter wire as RED / lt. blue,  but when I wired the alarm I could not get the 12v signal on that wire so I changed to the blue green wire.  The blue/green had 12v with the key in the start position.  I connected the starter output from the r/s unit to that blue/green wire but it does not seem to work correctly.  Your thoughts?

Thanks again

Jeff,

The injector wire worked fine.  No problems learning at all.    I also moved the starter wire from the RS over to the RED / blue like you said.  I placed the key in the ignition left in the off position and triggered the remote start.  Almost there but no start.  How should I procede to troubleshoot this??

Thanks

Chris

Extreme1,

I'll give that a shot tommorow, too cold tonight for any more work.   What if any are the downsides of using voltage sense instead of the tach wire?  I got the unit to learn the tach signal right off the bat, but when I get the wiring ironed out I will look for the over rev if I have trouble.  Thanks for the tip. 

The R/S seems to work fine now.   I place the key in the ignition and can r/s the car. 

But..

I'm having trouble with the pats bypass.   I'm using the 555f unit.  I turn key one to run wait for the theft light to go out, turn key off.  Key 2 turn to run wait for theft light to go out then turn off.  After that I place the bypass sensor a half inch in front of the key hole and try to r/s.  Get no start.  Theft light blinks fast on the dash so I don't think the programming is working.  I have the trigger wire of the bypass unit tied to the - status output of the r/s unit.  Do I need to wire the unit to a real ground for the initial programming?

Thanks

You may be holding the bypass module to far from sensor.

The engine cranks, but will not start and the Theft light is flashing.
The vehicles PATS system is in the “Anti-Scan” mode. The PATS on many model Ford vehicles will go into Anti-Scan mode if a start attempt is made with an un-programmed key (or in this case, Securilock Interface). In Anti-Scan mode the vehicle will not start with either of the vehicles master keys or the remote start. When PATS is in Anti-Scan mode, the theft light will flash rapidly while the ignition key is on.
To reset the Anti-Scan mode, turn the ignition key on, using a programmed PATS key and wait until the theft light turns off (approximately one minute). After the theft light goes out, turn the ignition off wait at least five seconds and start the engine. After you have verified that the engine starts, repeat the Securilock Interface programming steps in the Car Starter Instruction manual.

Ok.. I've made some progress I think.   I believe the module is programmed now. 

When I ground the sense wire of the bypass module before initiating r/s the truck will start.   Otherwise it will not start.  The problem at this point could be 2 things, I think..  1.  The timing of the bypass is off.  Or the bypass is activated after pats checks for a valid key.  2.  The relays which control the power to the pats system are on an acc relay that is not energized when the check for a valid key are done.

I'm not sure how to procede.   The sense wire of the bypass is wired to the status output of the R/S unit.  It seems to activate the bypass as soon as the r/s is activated. 

Any words of wisdom welcome. 

Thanks