98 Jimmy: Mannix Remote Start not working
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=45594
Printed Date: March 21, 2026 at 8:31 AM
Topic: 98 Jimmy: Mannix Remote Start not working
Posted By: mach1chris
Subject: 98 Jimmy: Mannix Remote Start not working
Date Posted: December 20, 2004 at 10:40 AM
Hey everyone,
I picked up a MannixUSA alarm of ebay a while ago and recently got my mechanic buddy to help install it. We used a Passkey II bypass module to bypass the stock security system.
Well everything is hooked up but the remote starter isn't working. When you try to remote start it, the car cranks, you can hear the engine somewhat start for a split second (and then dies) but the car keeps cranking then just shuts off. It sounds almost as if the engine isn't getting any fuel and/or spark. I thought it might be the passkey thats the problem but from what I understand it just disables the starter, not the fuel pump. You can hear the fuel pump turn on when you go to start the car.
The other quirky thing (not sure if its related) is that the alarm is supposed to lock the doors once you start driving and touch the brakes but it isn't always consistent of when it does it. Someitmes it happens right away, sometimes it takes a while.
Any ideas as to whats wrong and how I can solve it? Some help would really be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
Replies:
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 20, 2004 at 11:11 AM
The Passlock disables the fuel for the Jimmy, not the starter. No Chevy Passlock disables the starter. How did you bypass the Passlock system ? For the second problem, check your ground on the unit and make sure that if you used relays for the door locks, that they are grounded well and that your power for them is from a high current power wire. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: mach1chris
Date Posted: December 20, 2004 at 2:04 PM
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the reply. If it does disable the fuel, then I guess we must have incorrectly hooked up the bypass module. I'm not sure what brand it is but we picked it up at bestbuy (futureshop had the same one).
I was just talking to my buddy and he said he went by the instructions that came with the bypass. He said the "ignition output" from the alarm is wired up to the module, an the module wires up to the 3 wires off the ignition switch.
The fishy part is that in the wire schematic it says the factory disarm wire is the light green wire at the harness in the driver door, but the wiring shcematic that came with the bypass module did not use this. (the schematic gave the colours and locations of hte wires to use for the jimmy, wondreing if it was wrong?)
If it helps I can scan the diagram when I get home from work and post it. Help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
Posted By: mach1chris
Date Posted: December 20, 2004 at 6:02 PM
Ok the bypass module is a Directed Electronics "555L General Motors Passlock Interface Module". I have a feeling its not properly connected to the outputs from the mannix alarm. BLUE/BLACK (-) status input: Connect this wire to the (-) status output (BLUE/BLACK or BLUE) of the Directed remote start system. PINK (+) ignition input: Connect this wire to the heavy guage positive (+) PINK wire of the Directed remote start system that connects to the vehicle's main ignition. Now looking at the install manual (you can find a copy at https://www.bypasskit.com/Manuals/MT-3200_020822_IO_EN.PDF thanks to the search button :P), I see a "ignition output" which is blue/white and provides a -500mA output while the Ignition1 wire is powered (trying to crank). This is what was used as a status input for the bypass module. Now, I can't seem to find something specific for the PINK (+) ignition input. What was done is it was tapped into the Ignition1 output from the alarm. Based on this, any ideas what might be wrong? Running out of ideas :( Thanks, Chris
Posted By: mainormoscoso
Date Posted: December 28, 2004 at 9:18 PM
this Mannix units are such a pain to install I spent 2 hours tryng to figure out why my car did not start, your problem seems to be that the unit is not getting the proper tach signal or it need to be learned that's what happens when it does not seeing the tack signal why over cranks and then dies I had the same thing happened to me
Posted By: mach1chris
Date Posted: December 28, 2004 at 11:14 PM
but what about the passlock security and the security light flashing? dont think the unit is sending the output signal to the passlock bypass module because of the tach?
Posted By: mainormoscoso
Date Posted: December 29, 2004 at 8:40 AM
I don't know about the security ligth but the locks should lock when you rev the engine that's what mine does again the unit is not seeing the proper tach
Posted By: mohamed
Date Posted: December 29, 2004 at 9:48 AM
this Mannix units I've got installed in a honda. for this system to work you need to ground gray/black from
con 6 trigger input.
and for bypass module this link might help
https://bypasskit.com/Manuals/IPP03_010101_I_EN.PDF
Mohamed
Exteme mobile security
ahmed_mo1@hotmail.com
Posted By: xrayman
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 9:53 PM
One way to see if it is a passlock error or tach signal or votage detect signal is to have your key in the ingition don't turn it on, then press the start button on the remote. You have to have all doors and hoods closed. When the remote start works it should since the key you have inserted, not the bypass model you are using. If truck still quits it is the tach wire hook up.
Posted By: mach1chris
Date Posted: January 03, 2005 at 6:04 PM
I tried that but it still doesn't work. From what I understand the Passlock security works with resistances. When the key is out, there is a certain resistance, when the key is in and in the on position there is another certain resistance and when the key is cranking, there is another certain resistance different from the on position. So even if the key is in the on position, it shouldn't matter (in regards to testing). :(
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