Is a Passlock Bypass needed 98 Transport

My key has no chip in it. Is that how you can tell if it has PASSLOCK?

I almost went with the Prostart 3300 too with it bieng on sale.  But the range was not long enough for what I wanted. Plus I really  wanted the  FM 2way option so it tells you if your van started on the remote.

I have the a 1998 transport  too and it needs no bypass.  When I bought the remote the guy checked his book too and said the same.  

I haven't had time to do it this week but hopfully I be able to get in my shop and do it next week.  Are you going to wire up the locks too?  If so your gonna need a couple relays.

Regarding your van how is the heater on it ? Mine has poor heat main reason I'm getting a remote starter. You really have to let it warm up good or else the front window gets frosted up! Never mind the all the side ones.

Also  have you had the intake gasket changed yet?  I did mine last winter all the 3.4 motors are bad for leaking that year among others.

The wire info from AutoStart makers of Prostart says the door locks are a + polarity.   The Remote starter uses a - pluse not  a + one which we need. So if  they are correct  we're  gonna have to wire up a couple relays to change the unlock and lock out puts  that are  a  -  pulse to a + one. Not a big deal but still a bit extra time.  Same goes for that sliding door you could just hook up one of the Aux. outputs but again your gonna have to check and see what polarity it takes to trigger the sliding door.  

Yes you are right. That sucks. Where can I get these relays? Does Canadian Tire have them? What is it going to cost me? Thanx again.

Yes CT, auto parts stores or Princess Auto too would have them. At Princess Auto the automotive type 5 terminal relay for lights, alarms etc. is $3.99.  You can even buy the female terminal plug there for a couple bucks or just used spade connectors etc. 

HOLD ON

Well while reviewing some posts I saw it mentioned that Prostart / AutoStart sells a inverter that plugs into the back of the unit.  So I took a closer look at the Wiring Schematic sheet and sure enough on the rear of the unit there is a place to plug in a "INV-200"  Door lock pulse inverter. It converts the - pulse to a +  one  for the locks.  Its also on the AutoStart website under Accesories.  So if its not expensive it looks like it would  be a simpler & quicker way  to go especailly if  you had to buy relays then wire them up etc. .   Years back when I installed remote starters  I remeber another brand  we sold used to have dip switches so you could change the the pulse from - to + on the door locks. . I guess Autostart  does the same  too now a days  with this extra plug in  inverter.  I'll check it out at CT and see how much it costs.

Well I ph. my local CT and they didn't have stock and said it was back ordered. They did give me another place to go and get lit up the road   but they want $30 for it.   No thanks!   For that price I'll just use  relays,  I got a dozen of  them out in the shop!. 

 I ph. up the store I bought my RS at and talked to the guy there and he didn't have stock either.  He said  he's used them and they work but not in all applications.  Reason bieng  they don't put out enough current  for  some systems.  So he says they just simply wire in relays.  

If you want to go with the inverter route what I would do is  just ph. Prostart/AutoStart and ask them .

On your van depending on how the locks are  triggered and that it  probably has keyless entry from the factory the inverter may very well work fine.  But you paid what 1/2 price so $50 for the whole Prostart so if you got to pay 30 for this inverter connection  its not very reasonable!  Maybe you can find it cheaper out your way.

  If you can't get any info when  I get to doing mine  I'll check the amp draw on the lock wires and post it. I have an  inductive amp probe that reads down pretty low I think ,one handy tool for doing electrical stuff!! 

I forgot to post this link twice now so here it is https://www.7thgencivic.com/wiring/index.php?change=1

if gives a good listing of the wires and the one you need for the power sliding  door.

I installed my remote start today on the 1998 transport.   It was an  easy   install  as  all the wires were  easy to get at and lots of room.   Only issue I had was the info sheet I had was wrong regarding polarity of the door lock triggers.  The info on the net said you needed a + output to trigger them when it  was a - which what  the RS  module produces.   The door lock wires in the kick pannel on the drivers side are  light gauge wires  which I assume are a single wire back to the body control module.   I didn't need any relays for the locks on this vehicle.    In anycase I wired it up and it works like a charm.   Not sure how far my transmiter range  is yet.   I'll  find out next time I park in city and go to a game. 

Tonight I took a closer look at some other companies wire code references  like the one DEI has and sure enough they call for a - trigger for the door locks on the Lt blue and white wire  in the down in the   kick pannel.  Same old story always got to check the wires to make sure!!  The info I had must be for the way you wired it up on the passenger side..  Sure glad I didn't go and order that door lock  polarity  gizmo  I was talking about last week!!

What kind of remote starter did you install? So do I need the INV-200 for my door locks? Will I be okay without it? This is some new info about the the locks being (-). If the locks are (+) and I wire them up without the INV-200, what could happend? Will I fry anything? Do you have a link to the DEI website. Any help would be great. Thanx

I installed an AutoStart  which makes  prostarts same set up etc.   When we talked before christmas I was just reading my info from autostarts wire sheet.   But if you read my post above, I found out when checking the indicated lock and unlock wires in the drivers side kick pannel  they require a (-) singel to activate the locks which DEI confirms my findings.    So if your 1998 transport is the same as mine and you use the wires down in the kick pannel you don't need  that inv-200.   The kick pannel pops off its held by 2  plastic gizmos.   Then if you reach down in there you will find a wire harness wrapped up in tape.  There you will find the light blue and white wire.

Used this link https://www.7thgencivic.com/wiring/index.php?change=1  plug in your 1998 transport and read what comes up.  It does a pretty good  job of itentifying all the wires needed.  

Always check  first  with a volt meter before connecting it up!