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2000 Dodge Caravan

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=45786
Printed Date: May 09, 2024 at 5:44 PM


Topic: 2000 Dodge Caravan

Posted By: sjunction
Subject: 2000 Dodge Caravan
Date Posted: December 22, 2004 at 5:24 PM

 Thanks (once again) to this awesome site, I was able to install an Autopage rf-1055ke keyless entry on a 2000 Dodge Caravan. I found a lot of tech notes which suggested a 1500 ohm resistor on the lock output and a 250 ohm resistor on the unlock for a Caravan without the factory alarm. The factory wire I connected to was a single wht/ lt. grn wire (found in the white bcm plug found beneath the fuse panel, left plug of 2 plugs.)

 I made the 250 ohm resistance by wiring two 500 ohm resistors parallel. The 250 ohm side worked fine but the 1500 ohm would not work UNLESS I HAD MY TEST LIGHT CONNECTED TO THE WIRE! Because of that I substituted a 680 ohm resistor and it worked great. Obviously a nice selection of resistors is handy when dealing with these type of lock systems (substitute resistors till something works heh.)

 This makes me wonder about my test light. It is a ETL Pistol Probe model 76000. It has done other strange things like...

While testing for an accessory fuse on a 2004 Chevy Tahoe (top right fuse I think), I could pull out the fuse and kill the radio. When I put my test light on the ground side of the fuse receptacle, the radio would come back to life and my pistol showed a ground.

I have also (while probing for tach signal) killed an engine, and once even started a vehicle while probing fuses (in dash, not under hood).

 I have not (knock on wood) set off any airbags yet but this weird behavior makes me somewhat nervous. I overpayed $85 (weekly toolguy stickup) for this thing and once looked it up online to make sure it was airbag safe, diode protected, whatever.. and I'm pretty sure it was. It detects positive/negative, has a light, beeps, has accessories like a needle extension, gator clips, cord extension, etc. It is made by Waekon. I thought "diode protected" would mean strictly input, no output but experience seems to suggest otherwise.

 I just hooked my light up to a 12v battery via gator clips. When testing dcv with a test meter between probe tip and the negative battery terminal, my meter showed like 4.68 volts. I am fairly new to the car audio scene but isn't that a little odd? Thanks in advance for any responses. Let me guess, time for a new test light. :(




Replies:

Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: December 22, 2004 at 8:12 PM
number one, get rid of the test light, for the $85 you can get a safe DMM and not have to worry about anything else, at least I do not like those test lights.

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2005 Toyota Corolla S
    1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!





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