Jeep Cherokee Question

Finnaly got my JDL-PK in the mail. Question are as follows

Connector 1
Red12v-Red
Purplestarter-yellow
Red12v-pink/black
Yellow ignition- dark blue
Orange accessory-RED / black
green accessory 2-BLACK/ orange

Connector 2
black ground-ground
purple tach-one of the injector wires
grey-hood pin
orange-brake wire(CANT ACTUALLY find this one)
12volt parking light wire(im using a test light for this intill i get a resistor(Should i just pick up a resisitor at radioshack)
Brown lock-(do I connect this to ORANGE / black or orange purple or do i connect it to the green wire of JDL-PK?
Green Unlock-(do i connecto this to pink/black of vehicle or do i connect to blue wire of JDL-Pk
Rearm output(n/a) Right?? or do I need to do something with?
Disarm(do i connect this to vehicle or do i connect it to the JDL pk or does it stay not connected??
Starter kill/armed output- leave not connected since im not doing a starter kill
Purple external trigger-leave blank?
Ground out when running-leave blank or connect to JDL pk?

The JDL pk hooked into my autostart brain just fine, but im wondering what wires i have to connect to now, I have the instructions from the JDL pk, but I dont want to connect it till I know exactly what im doing. Sorry for so many questions, I just want to get it right before I hook the purple wire to the pin2 on the data bus wire.

:::orange-brake wire(CANT ACTUALLY find this one):::

Your looking for a WHITE/ tan wire at the brake switch. It also may be PURPLE / brown if it is a newer Grand Cherokee.

:::12volt parking light wire(im using a test light for this intill i get a resistor(Should i just pick up a resisitor at radioshack):::

Note that the park lights in this vehicle are negative through a 1300 ohm resistor. I always just use a 1k ohm resistor. Also since that park light output is 12volt, you will need a relay to convert the positive to a negative.

:::Brown lock-(do I connect this to ORANGE / black or orange purple or do i connect it to the green wire of JDL-PK?:::

Assuming this is a negative output, you would connect it to the green wire on the JDL-PK.

:::Green Unlock-(do i connecto this to pink/black of vehicle or do i connect to blue wire of JDL-Pk:::

Assuming this is a negative output, you would connect it to the blue wire on the JDL-PK.

:::Rearm output(n/a) Right?? or do I need to do something with?:::

Shouldn't need this..

:::Disarm(do i connect this to vehicle or do i connect it to the JDL pk or does it stay not connected??:::

The JDL-PK will take care of the factory alarm you don't need this wire for anything.

:::Starter kill/armed output- leave not connected since im not doing a starter kill:::

Yup..

:::Purple external trigger-leave blank?:::

Yup..

:::Ground out when running-leave blank or connect to JDL pk?:::

This should go to the brown wire on the JDL-PK.

Good luck,

Mike

awesome, just wanted to make sure, now im golden, everything works except I cant seem to program the tach, im using a autostart 2 way system.

It says if the parking lights flash 5 times you need to program the tach, so i put the hood up started the vehicle, and waited. Then I turned the vehicle off and tryed to remote start, the vehicle then blinked 5 times.'

For autostart they say to program tach, put the hood up, and let the vehicle run for a few minutes. The tach should auto program

I am using the WHITE/ blue wire on the front most injector, i didn't check for AC current on that, so maybe I should do that? Any further help would be appreciated. Thanks

Ok, tested the tach wire when i have it set to AC 200, it says 30.0 when i change it to ac 500 it says 30.

These don't seem to be around 1.8 ac voltage? I dont want to start probing other wires. Any input?

what yr model?
cherokee or grand cherokee?

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo

*6 The 4.7L motor has a separate coil for each cylinder. Go to any coil and use any wire that is NOT dk. GREEN/ orange. On the 4.0L motor use any of the tan/stripe wires at the coil pack, or go to one of the fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT dk. GREEN/ orange.

btw, what unit are you unit?

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

I understand that I need to goto one of the fuel injectors, like i did, I used an UNCOMMON wire.

I am using a Autostart Two way lcd unit. (autostartusa.com)

I did a manual tach learn and that worked perfect. My problem now is with the JDL pk, i start the car with the remote, but i leave the key in the cylinder, it works perfect. I take it out and the vehicle trys to start 3 times then quits. The security light blinks when I do this. So as far as programming it heres what I do
1 key 5 seconds on then remove
2 key on, then wait till security light begins to flash (and sound)

remove key

jump 12volt and ignitoin wire, car makes a normal sound (does not start), the security light will stop flashing

Then turn on for 3 seconds then off
Remove Key.

Remove Jumped wire. Start vehicle it quits after 3 times.

I am holding the screw side of the jdl pk toward the ignition barrel.

I think i found a little problem, The security light will stop flashing when I hold the JDLpk unit up, but it will not come on again for 3 seconds then off again.

When I remote start the vehicle with a key in the cylinder, the vehicle starts and runs fine. Then I remove the key and the vehicle continues to run. But when I remote start the vehicle with the key out of the cylinder, the vehicle starts then stops right away.

hey, here my 2 cents.

when learning the jdpk to the jeep (for the key) the jeep sequence is. assuming you have two valid keys for the vehicle..

1st key on, no start,wait for security light to go out (thats the little key symbol with the line through the key in the cluster) remove that key, put in second kvalid key, wait for light to go out, AND A CHIME TO FOLLOW. then remove that key. you have 30 seconds ground the deisel wait to start wire and hit the remote start. It will fire up the collum put not crank. it is waiting for you to unground the wait wire. Now put that box with the green dot or hole on it up to the key ring hole. the security light will stop flashing. Then unground the wait wire and its all set.

hope it helps

rich

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Rich Hawthorne
Hands-Free installations
"don't talk with your hands full"
516-no-hands

you may hear another chime after the light goes out.

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Rich Hawthorne
Hands-Free installations
"don't talk with your hands full"
516-no-hands

have you bypass the antitheft? 555c or 555u/556u

Sierra2700 wrote:

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When I remote start the vehicle with a key in the cylinder, the vehicle starts and runs fine. Then I remove the key and the vehicle continues to run. But when I remote start the vehicle with the key out of the cylinder, the vehicle starts then stops right away.

---

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

when you say ground the diesel wait to start, do you mean ground the + glow plug wire off the brain? Or do you mean the - external trigger wire? Profuse007, i have a JDL-PK bypass kit, this kit stores the bypass code in the box.
Everything else works with the JDL-Pk, the door lock, door unlock ect... the remote start will not keep it running with out the key.

ground/or throw voltage to the glow plug/wait wire.

whichever your unit needs to see to energize ign and wait

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Rich Hawthorne
Hands-Free installations
"don't talk with your hands full"
516-no-hands

IF the vehicle stays running with the key in the ignition but doesn't start without it, you have all the proper wires hooked up, it's just the Sentry system is not being bypassed properly. The only thing that makes me believe that it's not the JDL-PK, is that the module learned the keys because the keyless entry works and the OEM alarm did not go off on you when you tried to remote start the vehicle. The only thing is that the vehicle will not start, so try this, take the BROWN wire off the JDL-PK ( ground when running wire ) and attach it straight to ground. Try the remote start and post your results.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

if i am thinking of the same module this jdl-pk it has 2 seperate systems.

one for key, and one for databuss

Maybe the ring is't correct around the key cylendar?

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Rich Hawthorne
Hands-Free installations
"don't talk with your hands full"
516-no-hands

The JDL pk is 1 unit, it does both the databuss and does the key. Hafr.


I cut the brown wire that goes from the JDLpk and connected it to a ground, then tried to remoete start it, it did the same thing, it started up for about 3 seconds then quit.

Sierra, how many times did you loop the RF wire around the ignition cylinder and did you try looping it at a different spot ? Like moving the loop over closer to the front of the ignition barrel ? Also you mentioned that the plug that you have on the BROWN,RED & BLACK wire plugged directly into the AutoStart brain ? Did you check to make sure that the output's of these pins were correct with the wiring diagram ? I ask because Trilogix and AutoStart are completely different companies and I didn't think that they had compatible molex connections ? I may be wrong, but just check to be sure that your getting a good ground on the BLACK wire and constant 12 volts on the RED wire.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Ok i have the wires wrapped around the ignition coil as many times as possible with out having the main wire wrapped around it as well.


I think im getting somewhere, I programed the unit, and then when I remote start the vehicle with the jdlpk unit held up to the ignition barrel the car stays running, does this mean there is a problem with the loop around the ignition barral and rules out problems of anything else?
I wrapped it tight around the barrel and its around as many times as possible with out having to wrap the main wire (the wire before it splits off.

it sounds like the pk is learned but the signal isn't getting to the cylindar.

some of those pk's have a ring allready made. maybe you can get a prefab ring and just loop it around and zip tie the excess.

you are almost there

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Rich Hawthorne
Hands-Free installations
"don't talk with your hands full"
516-no-hands

I wrapped the JDL-PK wire around the cylinder the same direction.(such that you would wind a garden hose around a hanger on the side of your house) I wrapped it tight, i have it as close to the key cylinder as possible, i even tried backing it down the key cylinder a little to see if maybe it was too close to the cylinder end.

Is it possible that there is another reason for this besides the loop? Or is the fact that when you hold the PK unit close to the key cylinder and remote start (it works) that the loop is ruled as the only problem?

The chip is inside the module and the wire is suppose to induce the signal to the cylinder. With you placing the chip closer to the cylinder, the chips RF is supplying the Sentry system with the proper strength code needed to start the Jeep.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

So do you think the unit is defective, or its user error? I tried calling bypasskit.com but its a holiday according to there message.

I Have it wrapped very tightly and cant seem to get it to work. I am thinking of just taking it off and holding it up against the key cylinder just to see if the coil is bad.

The only problem with buying another one, is that the one I have is then junk because you can only program them once correct?

If you have the key in the ignition,just in, not turned and you remote start the truck, and it runs. The only thing it could be is the bypass ring.

make sure you loop it correctly. you need to make it go around the black sleave  that is around the cylindar. then double it and double it. don't just wrap it round and round.

i dont really know haow to explain it. that all i got.

hope it helps

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Rich Hawthorne
Hands-Free installations
"don't talk with your hands full"
516-no-hands