90 Integra, and Remote starter install

Ok I received a remote starter for Christmas, just going to go install it. I have done remote starter installs before but here is my problem I am having. The remote starter i got only has 1 ignition line output. On my 90 Integra there is 2 ignition lines, one I think runs the car itself and the other runs the accessories in the car like the blower motor. How can i hook this starter up so it can run both the ignition lines?

relay it..   85 ground 86 +12v from the ignition1 output 30 +12v from 12volt source and 87a to ignition 2... should do the trick

-Mike

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Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10

sorry typo.. thanks for the catch bobk

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Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10

Ok so I hard wire the ignition like from the starter into the 1st ignition then from there take a jumper wire to 86 then ake another jumper wire and attach one end to 87 and the other end of that wire to ignition 2 correct?

connect ignition1 like you normally would... then get a relay(those ones with the harness work great) and tap into the ignition 1 wire on the r/s harness with 86. ground out 85. then tap into the 12volt source you are using for the r/s and tap 30 into there. then take 87 and tap that into ignition 2 just as you did with ignition 1.

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Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10

Ok so basically what I said is correct then by reading what meltingplastic just put.

Ok yea, I fogot to mention the ground and the R/S ignition....

Ok I did exactly what Meltingplastic said to do with the relay and now under normal starting with key the car will not start, but when i remove the relay it does.

Nope I just spliced in,

I have a stack of them here,

Oh crap no mine all only have 87 no 87a pin,

Dude, what brand of remote starter are you trying to put in? And when am I sending you that Alpine 5 channel amp?

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Its a Prostart from Canadian Tire. Got 2 new relays with 2 87's in it (5 pin relay) going to try that bu first got to get the stupid bypass for the clutch to work.

Kevin, the clutch should be a positive switch. Meter the clutch under normal starting conditions to verify the type. All you need to do here is take the start wire (purple) from the Prostart, tie into it and run the line to the vehicle side of the clutch switch if it is a positive system. If it is a negative switch then we will have to do something different. BTW dude my other screen name is MR2NR if you did not figure it out.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Yea I figured that out lol, my car is a negative clutch, I have tried everything, even did what the install siad and it does not work, install said to use a relay 5 pin

BTW its a prostart 3160M for manual trannys

Just to clarify I got the insall sheet for the R/S that tells how to make the bypass here is what I did exactly what the sheet says


87 and 30 each go to one of the 2 wires on the clutch switch, 85 to negative output when running, 86 to starter wire.

I did this and the car will not start, the parking lights flash long and then 1 quick and sometime 2 quick flashes after.

The long flash is nomal cause thats just the car starting and well thats what my other car does with the starter in it (its an auto tho)

So I am really pissed and mad over this, like I said I even whent out to get a couple relays to replace the ones I was using and there is no difference.

Try remote starting it with you in the vehicle and hold the clutch down with your foot, does it start then? If it does then there is an issue with the clutch bypass. Double check that clutch switch to ensure that there is not two switches and you are on the right one. Are you 100% sure that it is a neg. clutch switch? What does the line meter when the car is cranking?

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Yep done both, had the wrong switch the first time, but found the correct one. Even tried holding clutch down, all the the car does is oe long flash and then 1 quick one, I then just cliped the 2 clutch wires together and no difference, I even went out to get a new brain for it and no difference. The only thing I can think of now is that it needs to have the interior light wired and the starter kill wired cause thats the only things i dont have wired.

Did you learn the tach setting yet? If the starter does not remote start with you manually pushing the clutch in, chances are that a wire still needs to be powered up to allow it to start.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Yes it has learned the tach setting and it seemed to work as stated in the book, I dont know what else needs to be wired up, grr my auto was so much easier and less of a pain in the azz..... grrrrrr

Its a Autostart Prostarter model 3160M Manualm Transmission starter, I have this connected:

Sarter wires --> In Car Wires

5 pin harness
Red (x2) - 12V+ --> WHITE/ black 12V in car
Yellow - Ignition out --> BLACK / YELLOW in car
Violet - Starter out --> BLACK/ white in car
Orange - acc. --> Yellow in car

7-pin Harness (Dont use 1 pin due to Gluw-plug out)
Black - Ground --> Good ground in car
Violet - Tach --> blue/white wire in car running up inside the dash (its good used a tach tester on it)

Grey - Hood pin --> under hood :)
Orange - Break switch --> GREEN / WHITE in car
Red - Valet switch - Attached to one of the 2 wires on the on/off switch for the starter

Yellow - Parking Lights --> plug @ parking light switch in car

10 pin harness (only 8 used, dont use external trigger or ream pins)
Orange - Dome light in(+) Connect to dome lght wire that has +12V with the doors open--> Not hooked up
Grey - Dome Light in(-) Connect to dome lght wire that has GROUND with the doors open--> Not hooked up
Green w. Black - Ground out Negative output while running--> Coloured wire of clutch switch

WHITE/ yellow - Starter killout - Not hooked up
Blue - Parking break --> Wired directly into the switch @ parking break
Brown - Lock(-) --> Not hooked up no power locks
Green - Unlock(-) --> same as above
Blue - Trunk out(-) --> not hooked up manual trun relase

With this hooked up I cannot get the car to start, all the starter does is flash one long flash of the parking lights (normal) and then one quick one after then nothing happens. Even if i just bypass the clutch by jumping the 2 wires together on the switch it does the same, I even did the relay trick by how the starter said (87 - one line of the clutch switch, 86 - starter wire, 30 - other wire on clutch switch, 85 - negative output when running on the R/S)


Now the only thing that I can see not allowing the starter to start the car is not having the dome light hooked up thus its thinking that the doors are open? Or maybe not having the starter kill? Why wopuld that need to be hooked up? I attempted to hook up the dome light wire but I cannot fine the wire in the car that shows Connect to dome lght wire that has +12V with the doors open


I am getting really really peed off at this moment!   I cannot get anything to work at all.

Ok so now that my starter is now working, back to this problem with not having the blower motor turn on when the car is R/S, I got the correct relay and everything is wired but now when I put the key in I only have to put it on one click and the car starts, not correct.   


85 ground
86 +12v from the ignition1
30 +12v from ignition on R/S
87 to ignition 2

Thats how I wired it

Now realising I messed up I tried the correct way that was previousely posted

85 ground
86 +12v from the ignition1
30 +12v from +12V sourc
87 to ignition 2

Ant stll the car does not start, but once I remove i it does. MAybe try moving 87 to 87A?

For your 1990 Accura I noticed DEI and Desingtech's wire codes don't match up.  One calls for 3 ign. wires and one acc. and the other has 1 ign. and 2 acc.  and different wire colors to boot.  I would check the wires at  the switch with dvm and see what wires you need to hook up there.