1999 Ford Taurus Remote Start problems

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=46298
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 2:14 AM

Topic: 1999 Ford Taurus Remote Start problems

Posted By: Phatsperformanc
Subject: 1999 Ford Taurus Remote Start problems
Date Posted: December 29, 2004 at 2:00 PM

Roomate picked up a remote start for her 99 Taurus, having some problems. Its a Directed Boa 265B and to be honest, I think Cliffords are easier to install than this "DIY" model. Heres what I hooked up, and well it aint workin!!

Alarm Wire Designation Factory Wire

red fused constant 12v yellow

pink ignition RED / lt green

orange accessory RED / black

purple starter RED / lt blue

brown brake switch RED / lt green

grey hood pin N/A

white parking light flash brown

violet/white tach yellow/white (off coil)

The power locks are WHOOPIN my butt! The wiring guide lists pink / YELLOW and pink/green for lock and unlock, and the remote start has 6 wires available, 2 for unlock, 2 for lock, and 2 for constant 12v. Now it lists "Master Switch" and I cut the wires listed (pink ones) and it said to test them, should see 12v when the switch is active and nothing when not pressed..doesnt do that. I figgure it has built in relays so it just completes the circuit when it locks/unlocks but again..I tested them and didnt see the 12v, so what am I missing/doing wrong? Also connected my main wires to the brain (12v, ignition, accessory, starter, and pluged in harness for ground) so I could test the start..it didnt do anything. Do I need everything hooked up for it to work? Some alarms wont function unless ALL hook-ups are made, but that was a "back in the day" thing. Then the best part is when you program it, key has to be on, and it says "do NOT program within 3 feet of brain"..umm, are they serious, where its mounted is 2 feet away (under dash where they reccommend) so that kills that! I dont have PATS (normal size key) and dont think I have a second ignition wire (starter has wiring for 2 ignitions), like I said its whoopin me. The fact that its 30 degrees outside and windy doesnt help my demeener! Any and all help is VERY appriciated!

Replies:

Posted By: misterjimbo
Date Posted: December 29, 2004 at 2:16 PM

grey / YELLOW and black ltgreen are also acc wires.

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Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: December 29, 2004 at 3:49 PM

12volts	lt.grn/ppl or yellow	+	ignition harness
Starter	RED / lt. blue	+	ignition harness
Second Starter
Ignition	RED / lt. green	+	ignition harness
Second Ignition
Third Ignition
Accessory	gry/yel & RED / blk	+	ignition harness
Second Accessory	BLACK/ lt green	+	ignition harness
Keysense
Power Lock	pink / YELLOW	-	drivers kick panel
Power Unlock	pink/green	-	drivers kick panel
Lock Motor	pink/black		drivers kick panel
Unlock Motor	RED / white		drivers kick panel
Parking Lights+	brown		switch or fuse box
Parking Lights-
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Reverse Light
Door Trigger	BLACK/ lt. blue	+	under dash light
Notes: Also found lt. GREEN/ orange (-) at headlight switch. BLACK/ orange at GEM (instrument fuse panel) will get all doors and hatch on wagon. Rests at ground through ignition, cut and diode isolate.
Dome Supervision
Trunk/Hatch Pin	BLACK/ pink	-	at trunk light
Hood Pin
Trunk/Hatch Release	pnk/yel or gry/red		at release switch
Notes: There are 2 wires at the switch. If the switch has a pink / YELLOW and a gray/red use the pink / YELLOW as a negative trigger. If the swich has a gray/red and a purple / YELLOW, use gray/red as a positive trigger.
Power Sliding Door
Factory Alarm Arm
Factory Alarm Disarm	pink/white	-	drivers kick panel
Disarm No Unlock
Tachometer	yellow/white		ignition coil
Notes: Coil & Harness behind intake manifold at back of engine compartment.
Wait to start
Brake Wire	RED / lt. Green	+	Brake switch or DKP
Parking Brake
Horn Trigger	PURPLE / orange	-
Notes: Four pin plug to right of steering column.
Memory Seat 1
Memory Seat 2
Memory Seat 3

Immobilizer Bypass Module:	Required: Yes	Type: PATS	Part #: 555P, 555F, 556U, or 555U
Notes: N/A

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Posted By: mobileworks
Date Posted: December 29, 2004 at 8:40 PM

Door locks are usually negative trigger at the GEM/Fuse box above the dr. kick panel.

There are in a Grey Plug that exits out the bottom and faces down. They are small gauge and pink / YELLOW and pink green.

Sounds like your unit has built in relays for door locks....just wire it for a negative type door locks according to the manual that came with it and you should be good.

Door lock outputs from the boa are probably ...2 purple wires(might have in-line fuses on them), a blue, green, white, brown....sound about right?

If so cut and tape off the white and brown wires, wire up the purples to ground, and wire up the blue and green wires to the lock and unlock wires in the car....

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Posted By: Phatsperformanc
Date Posted: December 29, 2004 at 9:24 PM

Thanks for the replies, so do I need to hook up more than 1 acc. wire, or is it ok with just the one I have? As far as door lock wires to brain I have:

RED / white (-) Channel 2 (trunk release I reckon)

WHITE/ black Lock #87A Normally Closed

GREEN/ black Lock #30 Common Output

violet/black Lock #87A Normally Open (Input) 15a

BROWN / black Unlock #87 Normally Closed

blue/black Lock #30 Common Output

violet Unlock #87A Normally Open (Input) looped back to violet/black

Now normally you can just solder the wire inline on the factory unlock/lock button but it is showing/saying I need to cut the wire and connect the "master switch side of the lock wire" to one wire and the "motor side of the lock wire" to the other, but I snipped the factory pink/striped wires and the drivers door doesnt work but the other door does, which the manual states I didnt snip the right wire. It use to be simple..lock out to lock wire (strip a bit and solder in, no cutting), unlock out to unlock wire, and ground..but this is making it a bit weird for me.

And again, shouldnt the alarm start with the heavy duty wires connected and the ground..but shouldnt need the tach wire, light flash, and door locks hooked up to test it, or so I thought. Not exactly the alarm/starter I would have choose, but she wanted one now and it IS Directed..so its not the worst one out there, but dang! And let me tell ya, Taurus's have NO wire give at all..every other car had some pullable wire to give some room, not this puppy! If anyone can tell me what the deal is, it would be beyond great! Thanks again fellas!!

Posted By: Phatsperformanc
Date Posted: December 29, 2004 at 9:29 PM

2 more things, I know it lists a PATS transponder part number, but the Taurus isnt equiped with PATS (no security flashing light in dash or oversized key end) so thats not a problem. But the Tach wire is listed as on the coil behind intake manifold backside of engine..my coil pack is located in the front of the engine and has a plug in with 7 or so wires, one of them is yellow/white..why would it be listed in the back of the engine?

Posted By: Phatsperformanc
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 9:44 AM

Anyone have a idea on this? I have looked at their site for tech info but not the best tech info. Thanks for the help!!