01 Tacoma Install

TACOMA 1999-2002
WIRE	COLORS	LOCATION
12 VOLTS CONSTANT	WHITE and WHITE/ RED	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 1	BLACK/ RED (+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2	BLACK / YELLOW (+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1	BLUE/RED (+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER	BLACK (+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS (+)	GREEN (+)	BACK of FUSE BOX, 12-Pin Plug
PARKING LIGHTS (-)	PURPLE / RED (-)	FRONT of FUSE BOX, 22-Pin plug
POWER DOOR LOCK	GREY	FRONT of FUSE BOX, 22-Pin plug (TYPE B) See NOTE *1
POWER DOOR UNLOCK	PURPLE	FRONT of FUSE BOX, 22-Pin plug (TYPE B) See NOTE *1
DOOR PIN TRIGGER	See NOTE *2
DOME LIGHT	TURNS ON with UNLOCK
TACH SENSOR	LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK	See NOTE *3
BRAKE	GREEN / WHITE (+)	@ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
HORN	GREEN/ RED (-)	@ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

 

NOTE *1    these wires will only test by turning the Key in the PASSENGERS DOOR Key Cylinder from LOCK to UNLOCK

NOTE *2    the DRIVERS DOOR is a GREEN (-) the PASSENGER DOOR is a GREEN / WHITE (-) and the REAR DOORS (both doors use same wire) GREEN/ YELLOW (-) when connecting to an Alarm System use all 3 wires and DIODE ISOLATE. 

NOTE *3    on the 4-Cylinder the tach wire is at the DATA LINK Connector located to the RIGHT of the STEERING COLUMN and on the V-6 the tach wire is a the IGNITER on the PASSENGER FENDER, below the Air Filter Box.

Your blower motor feed is your 2nd ignition, the BLACK / YELLOW. The blue/red will only power up your radio. Which you don't really need in remote start mode.

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Tacomacrew

Ok, so I should hook the yellow wire (-) ignition to the BLACK / YELLOW ignition wire?
Thanks,
Anthony

Your second ign. wire need to be powered up by the remote start pos. (+) not neg. (-)check to see if the crimestopper unit has a jumper to change the polarity of the 2nd ign. output!

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If not....use a relay

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I just installed the Clifford RS3.5 on my 2000 Tacoma and I hooked up the primary ignition wire from the alarm to BLACK/ red, the secondary ignition wire from the alarm to black yellow, and the accessory wire from the alarm to blue/red. Everything works fine this way.

However, since the blower is powered through the second ignition, you could hook up your accessory wire from the alarm to the BLACK / YELLOW ignition wire and hook up your ignition wires like normal and that would work fine too.

Also, I read on a couple vehicle information sheets that there was a door pin trigger connected to all the doors located in a 2 pin plug at the top rear of the fuse box, but I had a hell of a time finding it. Instead, I found the door pin trigger for each door in the kick panel, diode isolated them and then connected them to the alarm. It ended up being much easier, for me at least. To diode isolate, you can connect all the door wires to the same door pin trigger input on the alarm, as long as you put a 1 amp diode inline on each of the wires, cathode side facing the door, anode side facing the alarm.

Good luck!

-David

David,
"However, since the blower is powered through the second ignition, you could hook up your accessory wire from the alarm to the BLACK / YELLOW ignition wire and hook up your ignition wires like normal and that would work fine too." What would be considered normal? I basically just want to be able to get this done easily in one shot. Does your alarm allow for + second ignition? I think mine is - only :-(
I was also going to put a relay in the starter wire to ensure no grinding is possible.
Can you elaborate a little more on the door lock? I was going to just leave that and deal with it later, but you have intrigued me. I have heard you can simply tap the passenger door trigger to have both doors unlock with one unlock sequence. Do you know if they are negative or positive action?
Thanks everyone!
Anthony
Thanks,
Anthony

Yeah, my alarm has (+) output for 1st IGN, 2nd IGN, and accessory. I'm not sure how to hook up the relay for your alarm, but by "normal" I meant you should hook up the ignition outputs from your alarm to the ignition wires and ALSO hook up the accessory wire from your alarm to the 2nd ignition wire. You actually might also be okay to just leave the accessory output wire from your alarm disconnected. I'm not 100% sure, but I had to do my install again I would feel okay about doing it that way.

About the door locks... I think your truck has a 3 wire negative door lock system. If your alarm as a (-) door trigger input, you want to hook up a wire here that shows ground when ANY door is opened. You can test that using continuity on your multimeter. I couldn't find that wire in my truck, but I did find a wire for EACH DOOR that showed ground when that particular door was open. So then you want to connect all the wires you need to in order to cover all the doors to the (-) door trigger input on your alarm, but you need to diode isolate them. To find the wires just take off the kick panel near each door and look for a wire close to the door switch. In my truck, that wire was by itself routed in a hole near some spongy/foamy stuff. Test it with your multimeter to make sure you have the right wire (Connect black lead to ground, set DMM to continuity, probe suspect wire--it should have continuity with the door open but not closed). Tap that wire for each door and place a 1 amp diode inline between the door switch and the alarm. Make sure the cathode (the side with the stripe) is facing the switch and the anode is facing the alarm.

Good luck!

https://www.7thgencivic.com/wiring/index.php

That link might have some more good information for you.

My system has negative output for the ignition, so I will use a relay to change that to + and attach it to the 2nd ignition. My accessory from my system is rated at 30A, as is ignition 1, will this be safe to install to the ignition 2 or should i install it to accessory?

For the doors: the system I am installing isnt an alarm, it is merely keyless and remote start. I just need to open the locks, I am not worried about knowing if the doors are open. What do I need to accomplish this?

To summarize, this is what I know so far:
From system                   To Truck
(-) Ignition w/ relay           BLACK / YELLOW ignition 2
ground                          chassis
(-) anti grind w/ relay        black starter and BLACK/ red ignition 1
(-) hood pin                    hood switch
(+12V) Brake                    GREEN / WHITE brake switch
starter out 30A                 black starter
accessory 30A                   blue/red accessory
battery constant               battery +
ignition 1 30A                  BLACK/ red ignition
+ parking lights 10A            green fuse panel
                                jump clutch safety switch

Door locks: (no clue)
System has:
1. (-) pulse for UNLOCK
2. +12v for using external relays
3. (-) pulse for LOCK
What do I do with these?

You guys are amazing. Thank you so much!
Anthony                     

Go to that link I gave you, find the (-) power lock and (-) power unlock wires and connect them to the (-) pulse for lock and (-) pulse for unlock, respectively

Excellent, this is seeming to be pretty easy at this point. I did some of the easier install parts tonight. I mounted up the antenna in the center top of my windshield, installed the LED and installed the program button. Tomorrow I will tackle all this wiring and see what happens.
Thanks again!
Anthony

Does any one know a store that actually sells SPDT Relays? I went to two Radio Shacks and then I went to their catalog and they dont carry 30 Amp SPDT Relays.
Thanks,
Anthony

Also, what amperage relay is needed to convert the (-) ignition 2 ouput of my alarm to (+)? I figure a 1 or 5 amp should do it since it is 22 guage wire, right?
Thanks,
Anthony