Stumped, Remote Starter
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=46454
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 8:25 AM
Topic: Stumped, Remote Starter
Posted By: realsynthetics
Subject: Stumped, Remote Starter
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 1:06 AM
Alright guys, I'm on my last nerve, and know that you guys can probably help me out here. I hooked up my remote starter/alarm combo today, and its halfway good. The alarm works great. Doors unlock, and lock perfectly. But here is the issue....the remote starter doesn't do ANYTHING. Now bear in mind, this is my first time doing this, and I'm not really sure if I did everything right. I don't have a factory alarm. Installation Manual (Commando RS-560):
https://www.commandoalarms.com/RST-560install.pdf Wiring List for 1996 Dodge Intrepid:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1997&make=Dodge&model=Intrepid&ID=17621&type=Alarm Here are the wires I tapped into. Please correct any mistakes I may have made. (I will only list the ones that seem to correspond with the remote starter since the alarm works perfectly. HARNESS 1:
VIOLET wire (Starter Output) - Yellow wire ignition harness (I'm not going to use the starter kill relay)
2 RED wires (+12V Power Input) - Pink/Black wire ignition harness
YELLOW wire (Ignition 1 Output) - Dark Blue wire ignition harness
PINK wire (Ignition 2 Output) - RED / White wire ignition harness
BROWN wire (Accessory Output..Heater) - BLACK/ Orange ignition harness
HARNESS 2:
RED / WHITE wire (Parking Light Relay Input) - Chassis ground
-Lights didn't flash, so I will be changing this to a +12V connection Is this Correct?
WHITE wire (Parking Light Relay Output) - BLACK / YELLOW Headlight Switch
BLACK WIRE (System Ground) - Obviously grounded Grounded to frame
BROWN wire (Siren Output) - Works fine To siren
RED wire (Constant +12V) - Pink/Black wire ignition harness HARNESS 5:
I don't have anything from this harness connected, but here are the list of wires Ignition 3
Ground when Armed
Programable Output (Dome or Horn)
Programable Output (Two step unlock, Factory Alarm Disarm, or SHOCK SENSOR BYPASS)
Channel 2 (Trunk Release) Output
HARNESS 6:
BLUE wire (Ground Instant Trigger Input) - Hood pin (diode with stripe facing pin)
GREEN wire (Negative Door Switch Sensing Input...Grounding type factory door pins) - YELLOW(-) Driver's Kick Panel
VIOLET WIRE (Positive pin switch for Ford) - NOT CONNECTED
WHITE/ BLACK (Negative Safety Shut Down Input) - Hood pin (diode with stripe facing pin)
WHITE/ VIOLET (Positive Safety Shut Down Input) - WHITE/ Tan Brakelight Switch harness
BLACK/ WHITE (Neutral Safety Switch Input (-) ) - SOLID GROUND (I couldn't find the Neutral Safety Switch Wire)
WHITE/ RED (Tach Signal) - Tach Wire PCM Harness
The transmitter is programmed and everything. I don't have the trunk hooked up yet, an the horn output relay isn't set up either. But that is the least of my concerns. I can't get my remote starter to work, and I'm quite frustrated. So if ANYONE sees any errors there, please lead me in the right direction. Thank you so much. Sorry for the long post, I hope that someone out there is kind enough to bear with me and help me find a solution. Thanks. -Duncan
Replies:
Posted By: silvercivicsir
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 1:40 AM
did you program the tach ? and did the unit cofirm it was learned ?
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 1:47 AM
Is it necessary to program the tach before the remote starter will work?
Posted By: wiremadness
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 1:56 AM
This sounds really stupid, but have you checked to make sure the hood pinswitch is not reading ground at the brain? Also, under Start Feature II, try programming for RPM learning. If this does not work, try voltage checking mode.
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Chris
Store Manager
Posted By: SoundFX411
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 1:57 AM
did you hook up the toggle switch to the BLACK/ White Neutral Safety wire. If you did is it in the correct position.Also check your brake wire with a DMM to see that you get 12 volts when the pedal is pushed. I noticed that there is different wire colors for this wire between different wiring software.Just a thought
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SoundFX
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 7:10 PM
Alright guys, here's the deal. I got the starter working and I have a new problem. I have to use the voltage checking method for the starter sense. But when I hook up the 12V supply for the input wire for the parking lights, the remote starter won't work! I'm frustrated as hell. Any clues as to why this could be?
Posted By: jimmeezgolfvr6
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 7:26 PM
any chance that when you connected that supply input wire for the parking lights, you also somehow supplied the brake input wire with +12v too?
here's another good one that had me stumped me before....turns out that someone had forced-fixed his tailights and brakelights and somehow somewhere the parking lamps and the brake lights were joined together. thus, as soon as the parking lights turned on, the brake lights turned on too, so the brain thinks that the the brake is being pressed, which prevented the car from remote starting.
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all problems can be resolved with a hammer
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 9:01 PM
jimmeezgolfvr6 wrote:
any chance that when you connected that supply input wire for the parking lights, you also somehow supplied the brake input wire with +12v too?
here's another good one that had me stumped me before....turns out that someone had forced-fixed his tailights and brakelights and somehow somewhere the parking lamps and the brake lights were joined together. thus, as soon as the parking lights turned on, the brake lights turned on too, so the brain thinks that the the brake is being pressed, which prevented the car from remote starting.
I guaruntee that's what is happening to me. Do you think there is a way that I can still hook up my parking light using a diode? Also: Is it riskier to use voltage checking instead of tach sensing? Becuase when I use the tach sensing..the engine dies right away....but not with the voltage checking method.
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: December 31, 2004 at 10:02 PM
Also, I'm also having a problem where I'll start the vehicle with the remote....and it works fine. But sometimes, for no reason, it won't stay running. I'll have to figure this out! Any suggestions?
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 12:29 AM
Let me sum up my questions:
-How can I get my parking lights to work without triggering the positive safety shutdown?
-Why do you think my car stays running sometimes but shuts of very quickly most of the time? (Its the same with the tach AND the voltage). Both ways, the car will shut off. Information about the alarm is listed above. Please help.
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: January 02, 2005 at 10:36 AM
Well I've figured out a way to keep the vehicle running (Using either tach checking or timer checking). BUT I'm still left with the problem parking lights problem. I'm pretty sure they're making a loop of some sort and tricking the module into thinking there is 12V+ traveling through the brakelight wire..and therefore it utilizes its positive safety shutdown....stumped.
Posted By: Craig3708
Date Posted: January 02, 2005 at 8:02 PM
On hook your brake switch wire and see if this is the problem. This may sound strange but I had a 11/57 light blub cause this problem before. The light blub was crossed over on the inside and sent a signal back through the brake switch . Craig
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