2000 Honda Accord Remote Start

Hi All and thanks in advance,
  I'm installing a DEI BOA Remote Start with Keyless Entry Model 265B into a 2000 Honda Accord V6 LX.  It's my first install and I've run into a couple of problems but after reading other posts I've figured out some mistakes but I need a little help. This is also my first post.

1. Do I have to connect the keyless entry system and parking lights up for just remote start, I know I wont be able to tell if it's being programmed right, so I'm doing the lights with a relay, I guess I have to reverse the polarity, but is it nessesary to hook up the keyless and the flashing lights?

2. I have heard 2 or 3 different things about the wiring on these cars as far as ignition wires, I understand BLACK / YELLOW is ignition, but several diagrams also say there is a IGN #2 but no other wire coming out of the Ignition switch harness acts like a ignition, they all turn off during cranking, anybody know how many Ignition wires should be hooked up?

3. I know this vehicle has a transponder immobilizer, so i have a 556U hooked up, do i need a keysense input for this car? And do I just put the antenna ring around the key cylinder after its hooked up?

4.  And as far as the the starter wire, I've heard that I have to cut into it after the fuse box, what happens if I tap it before the fuse box?

Right now when I go to program the remote nothing happens, so I think it has something to do with these questions, and I'll be hooking up the parking light flash so i can see if the remote's brain is working while trying to program.

Any answer's would be a big help and I thank everyone again in advance.

1. On the LX, Factory security arms/disarms w/ factory remote only. You will need to hook up aftermarket keyless to get around this; it will cause problems w/ remote start.

2. BLACK / YELLOW is only ign wire required for remote start.

3. No keysense input required, simply hook up to 12v constant & status output from remote start, along with antenna ring.

4. If not interfaced correctly, check engine light will come on. Interface between keyswitch & fusebox, NOT between fusebox & starter. This pertains to starter kill only.

Thanks a lot guys,

I should have said this before, there is a aftermarket alarm installed I think, possibly a lojack, but the alarm is disabled, it shows a constant lit LED and the owner says it does not ever come on, so it has been disabled by some sort or valet switch I'm guessing. 

So would I be able to use the BOA's keless entry to disarm the factory alarm and this alarm?

I also hooked up my 12V input's for the BOA to a 12V constant wire that was not in the ignition wore harness, it was a lot smaller gauge wire and I should have known not to tap into that for power, but now there is no voltage on it, and you cannot shift out of park with out using a key for the shiftlock override. There are no fuses blown, but it must have disabled some sort of safety feature.  ANyone know what this wire is, it's in the harness coming out of the key cylinder and it's white with a brown stripe.

Thanks again

Kartuneman,

I dont have a tech sheet for the aftermarket alarm, its only an alarm and its always in valet so its disabled, do you think if I just unhooked the module it would make any difference with my RS??

Right now nothing is happening when trying to program the RS, no flashing lights or anything,  Is there anyway to see if the RS is responding or to see if i burned it up??

Thanks, Martin

Do you have the correct security override module?

A 555h or 555U or 556U any of these 3 will do!    I would still remove the alarm your NOT going to be using. "clean it up" Its got to make installing the remote start alot easier.