Start and Die
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=46578
Printed Date: July 18, 2025 at 7:32 PM
Topic: Start and Die
Posted By: realsynthetics
Subject: Start and Die
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 2:41 PM
Alright, I have a few questions pertaining to problems I'm experiencing with my remote starter. When I start it using the remote...it will die after about 5-10 seconds. It continues to retry after it dies....but never stays started. I don't know if this might have to do with the voltage sensing or if maybe it has something to do with the fact that something isn't hooked up right. But either way, its a nuisance, and its useless if it won't stay running. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=46454&PN=1 In that thread, I begin talking about a parking light problem that I'm having. When the parking lights are being powered by the 12V supply, the starter thinks that the brakelight switch is sending 12V...and therefore the starter won't work. I was wondering if there was a way that I could hook up a diode that would fool the module into believing otherwise. If anyone has any answers to my questions (Which you guys ALWAYS do), I'll be really happy. Thanks all. -Duncan
Replies:
Posted By: lmcguire
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 9:26 PM
what kind of vehicle is it?some models require a factory antitheft bypass module to stay running.the system shuts down the fuel pump if the key is not in the ignition.try putting the key in the ignition without turning it and then try your remote if it starts and stays running you need a bypass module. hope this helps
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lmcguire
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 9:52 PM
it sounds like you have a transponder system in the car.......we need more info.... ------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 9:57 PM
The car is a 1996 Dodge intrepid. The parking lights are controlled by a positive input (12V) and if the parking lights are on, there is obviously 12V flowing through the brakelight switch (positive shut down). Is there a way that I can still use the parking lights? I don't have sentry key, and I don't have a factory alarm.
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 10:30 PM
Here is a pinout for the headlight switch: Headlight Switch:
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 L39 20DB FOG LAMPS SWITCH OUTPUT
2 L48 20VT/PK FUSED B(+)
3 - -
4 F33 18PK/RD FUSED B(+)
5 L7 18BK/YL PARK LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
5 L7 20BK/YL PARK LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
6 L2 14LG HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
7 A3 14RD/WT FUSED B(+)
HEADLAMP SWITCH - C2 CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 G52 22YL (LHS ONLY) AUTO HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
2 Z1 22BK GROUND
3 M32 22YL/RD COURTESY LAMP SWITCH SENSE
4 - -
5 E19 22OR/DB DIMMER SWITCH SIGNAL
6 E2 22OR PANEL LAMP DRIVER
7 F39 20PK/LG FOG LAMPS SWITCH OUTPUT
8 Z1 22BK GROUND
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 10:39 PM
ok, im lost and im not even blonde!...........did you tie into the "brake switch wire" at the brake under the dash????????
your parking lights has nothing to do with shuting the car off......you must tap into the wire for the brake under the dash at the pedal itself......
Make: Dodge
Model: Intrepid
Year: 1996
This Database Was Last Updated On: 9/16/2004
Index #: 7832
Alarm
Constant 12 volts RED & PINK/BLACK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts D BLUE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light YELLOW (-) AT PIN SWITCH OR COURTESY LIGHT *
Trunk Pin Switch TAN/BLACK (-) DRIVER KICK PANEL (REAR BODY HARNESS)
Parking Lamp BLACK / YELLOW (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Power Lock ORANGE / WHITE IN LT.BLU 12-PIN CONNECTOR #202
Power Unlock PINK/VIOLET ON THE BACK OF FUSE BOX
* YELLOW (-) Wire Also Located At Body Control Module In Passenger Kick Panel Or In Connector Behind Fuse/Relay Block High In Driver Kick Panel. #202- See Positive Pulse Door Lock Diagram.
Remote Start
Tach Signal RED, WHITE & BLACK AT COIL PACK ON TOP OF ENGINE *
Ignition #2 RED / WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS ** #235
Ignition #3 BLACK/ ORANGE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
Accessory BLACK/ WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Neutral Safety BLACK/ L GREEN (-) AT SWITCH ON DR. SIDE OF TRANSAXLE
Brake Light WHITE/ TAN (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Light VIOLET/BLACK (+) AT FUSE BLOCK ***
Rear Window Defrost N/A TIMER BUILT INTO SWITCH
* Coil Pack Located On Top Of Passenger Side Of Engine. Each Wire Listed Is A 2 Cylinder Signal. ** RED / WHITE Powers Transmission Control Module, BLACK/ ORANGE Powers Heat/Ac. *** VIOLET/BLACK (+) Wire Located In 10 Pin Green Connector ON Back Of Fuse/ Junction Block Behind Driver Dash. #235- See Powering Extra Ignitions Diagram
------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 10:53 PM
Yeah, but for some reason,when I have the wires hooked up to send 12V to the parking lights, it won't start the vehicle...I'm guessing that the module is sensing the 12V in the WHITE/ tan wire too...because there is power being sent to the brakelights.
Posted By: draasch
Date Posted: January 01, 2005 at 11:44 PM
ok you say "wires"
which wires are you talking about?????
there should be one wire for parking lights and one for the brake wire under the dash............
HARNESS 2:
RED / WHITE wire (Parking Light Relay Input) - Chassis ground
-Lights didn't flash, so I will be changing this to a +12V connection.....this wire is a input wire for dome light supervision.... ------------- Good Luck
David
Ace Security
813-376-9778
Tampa
Donate to the 12volt
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: January 02, 2005 at 2:15 AM
Yeah, when I changed the RED / white wire to +12V...the lights are able to flash...but for some reason the remote start won't work. I can't figure out why though.
Posted By: jtmack1
Date Posted: January 02, 2005 at 7:57 PM
Check the tailight bulbs. thety may be shorted out in the connector or they may be the wrong ones. It will keep on backfeeding the brake signal to the remote start.
Posted By: jimmeezgolfvr6
Date Posted: January 02, 2005 at 8:09 PM
first of all, rather than trying to find a quick fix for your dilemma, i suggest you fix the problem with your tailights first. i know it's not an attractive thing to do, but it must be done to prevent further problems in the long run.
from the info that you've given in this post and your previous post, it sounds like somehow your parking lights wiring has contact with your brake lights wiring. this should mean that when you turn on your parking lights, your brake lights turn on too?! can you imagine how dangerous that can be for people driving behind you?
also, brake lights tend to be brighter than parking lights simply because the filaments in the bulb burn hotter and brighter. they are not meant to be "on" for extended periods of time, and if they are, will probably end up melting the plastic housing surrounding the bulb(s). please trust me on this one.....you will want to fix this problem first before anything else.
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all problems can be resolved with a hammer
Posted By: Javelin3o4
Date Posted: January 03, 2005 at 1:48 AM
had something like that on a SAAB the otherday just re-did the tach learning and that fixed it.
Posted By: realsynthetics
Date Posted: January 03, 2005 at 9:37 AM
I actually don't have a problem with the startng and dying anymore...I just decided to use timer checking....works great.
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