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Passlock 101

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=47059
Printed Date: April 30, 2024 at 3:30 AM


Topic: Passlock 101

Posted By: 5150azn
Subject: Passlock 101
Date Posted: January 06, 2005 at 1:56 PM

the passlock systems seem to be an installers worst nightmare. We all hit a deadend sooner or later. I was hoping to start this thread so that we can all post what we know about the Passlock systems and any quick fixes. That way when we need help it will be easy to find answers. Thanks in advance!

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Tell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!



Replies:

Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: January 06, 2005 at 2:06 PM
What problem is there with passlock? There are 2 wires. If you use the proper bypass kit there wont be any problems.

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MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: January 06, 2005 at 2:07 PM
What problem is there with passlock? There are 2 wires. If you use the proper bypass kit there wont be any problems.

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MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: tuckie
Date Posted: January 06, 2005 at 2:09 PM
if i remove the wires on my battery to connect wires for an amp, will it activate passlock on my radio to prevent it from turning on? (2002 grand am gt)




Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: January 06, 2005 at 2:53 PM
Passlock has nothing to do with the radio... it is a passive anti-theft feature ( fuel shutoff ) that allows your car not to be hot wired.... and no disconnecting the battery will not effect the Passlock circuit in any way.....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: January 06, 2005 at 3:50 PM
Hey Tuckie. What you are refering to is Theftlock. This is the anti-theft feature of the radio. If the red LED on your radio flashes with the ignition turned off, then the system has been activated. The radio will go into lock if you disconnect the battery. See your owner's manual for the car for all the details about the system.

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sparky




Posted By: 5150azn
Date Posted: January 06, 2005 at 6:28 PM
I was hoping to keep this thread clear of questions. Some problems that I've heard have been.... Security light comes on when using key to start car... Car doesn't start with bypass module... stuff like that. So have you guys ever encountered a problem and how did you fix it? If you haven't had a problem good for you.

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Tell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!




Posted By: jasontrucks76
Date Posted: January 07, 2005 at 2:16 PM

Yes my security light comes on when I installed a remote start??? Any ideas?

Jasontrucks



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Check the facts and try again!




Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: January 07, 2005 at 2:59 PM

1) What type of vehicle is it?

2) If the remote starter works without the key you have the bypass hooked up correctly. You may possibly have the Ign. wires on the remote start hooked up to the wrong ign wires on the vehicle.

3) If the remote starter doesent work without the key, then you have the bypass box hooked up wrong or may not even be hooked up at all.



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MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: January 07, 2005 at 3:11 PM

i've never had a Passlock issue yet ( OK one, but my guy forgot to solder the Passlock ground wire so we cant blame GM for that )..... if you use a good quality bypass module like the 555L you shouldnt have any problems either....

Passlock issues tend to vary with the quality of the module used and the quality of the RS being installed....



-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979




Posted By: jasontrucks76
Date Posted: January 07, 2005 at 3:21 PM
jaurora wrote:

1) What type of vehicle is it?

2) If the remote starter works without the key you have the bypass hooked up correctly. You may possibly have the Ign. wires on the remote start hooked up to the wrong ign wires on the vehicle.

3) If the remote starter doesent work without the key, then you have the bypass box hooked up wrong or may not even be hooked up at all.


Thank you for replying! It is a 2004 chevy express van and the car does start and seems to work just fine but the security light comes on when I remote start and when I key start. Also the remote seems to work great most of the time but every once and a while it will not work untill I get within about ten feet of the vehicle?

Thank you in advance for any input!

Jason



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Check the facts and try again!




Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: January 07, 2005 at 3:39 PM

Check the wires, this is what I came up with.

Function

 

Vehicle  Color

Location

Start:

 

Yellow (+)

Ignition switch harness

Ignition  #1:

 

Pink (+)

Ignition switch harness*

Ignition #2:

 

White (+)

Ignition switch harness

Ignition  #3:

 

N/A

Ignition switch harness

Accessory:

 

Orange (+)

Ignition switch harness

Brake  Light:

 

White (+)

Brake pedal switch

Tach  Signal:

 

White or Purple (AC)

Green plug at the PCM**

Parking Lights:

 

Brown (+)

Fuse box under driver seat



-------------
MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: auex
Date Posted: January 07, 2005 at 4:01 PM
I agree, using a quality bypass will eliminate alot of the problems. Also knowing how to integrate into the system correctly will eliminate the light from staying on.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: jasontrucks76
Date Posted: January 07, 2005 at 4:34 PM
I will check over the week end and let you know but those seem like what I used ? The bypass I used is a 555l and the starter is a boa. Thank you for the quick responce!

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Check the facts and try again!




Posted By: 5150azn
Date Posted: January 07, 2005 at 8:42 PM
auex] wrote:

I agree, using a quality bypass will eliminate alot of the problems. Also knowing how to integrate into the system correctly will eliminate the light from staying on.

Great then you guys can help! If you search "passlock" on this forum you'll find an incredible amount of posts. Some if not most of these guys are using DEI modules. What are these guys doing wrong? Whats a common fix? Whats the difference between the Passlock systems. And how do you test for passlock wires? I talked to a guy dealing with a cavalier. Ignition isn't on the column and stuff... You have like 2 or 3 yellow wires how do you know which one is it? Why is it that sometimes the security light comes on only when remote started... or only when you start it with a key?

I know we have some very knowledgable people here. But most important of all we have a combined experiance. If we can all share our experiances with Passlock we can learn from eachother.



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Tell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!




Posted By: auex
Date Posted: January 08, 2005 at 10:49 PM
Ok, the first and major problem is that people don't solder there wires and they use a crappy ground, or don't solder the ground to the passlock ground. That is the number one problem, INSTALLER ERROR!!!

To tell which wire the Rcode wire is, just use your meter. The wire will change voltage when cranking, not just to around 11-10 because the car is starting but more drastic.

Again if the security light is turning on then the installer didn't hook the passlock bypass up correctly.

-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: stang351w
Date Posted: January 09, 2005 at 1:48 AM
well...to start things off, i've had no probs with a GM passlock system...i find them better then fords or dodge bypass modules, i use the plxr module and i've had no probs what so ever (unless i hit the program button after it's program'd and the key wasn't turnd...but that's my fault)  but personally, i'll put a remote start in a chev long befor a dodge remote start.




Posted By: 5150azn
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 11:34 AM
I usually don't have any trouble with passlock myself. But the thing is lots of people call me for installation help and 99% of the time it's a passlock issue. I would be saying how simple passlock is to work with too; but there have been times when I've done everything right and still ran into a dead end.

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Tell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!




Posted By: JiggaFan
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 11:54 AM
I tried to use a PASS23 on a 2003 blazer...module blinked 4 times like it learned the code or whatever, but still didn't stay cranked.

So I did the ol' school Omega bypass which is basically a VATS-type bypass once you learn the resistance value with the key on.

Although it remote starts successfully, I still get a security light during remote start and after the driver inserts the key. But if you start it with key and not remote start, then no security light.

I drove the car on the freeway about 5 miles after a remote start to see if the security light would cause any performance issues, but it didn't. So I just told the owner that the light would be on b/c the car wasn't started with the key, but it didn't hamper operation/performance of the vehicle.

I now have a IBGMBP module that i'll try on the next GM passlock vehicle I get. I don't know about this PASS23...i was told it was supposed to replace the PLDATA2004 modules and what not, but now I see where it is for "some GM Passlock vehicles".




Posted By: misterjimbo
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 12:27 PM
i have done well over onehundred vehicles with passlock II and not once have i had a security light stay on. i only use two different bypasses. the audiovox as-gm4 and a dei 555l. i work at a gm dealer and almost never ahve a car in service for a passlock issue. the passlock system is not usually to blame. as stated earlier by auxe installer error!

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Posted By: jasontrucks76
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 1:53 PM

You guys seem to know your stuff and by no way am I saying the pass lock is problematic! Im shure that the error is mine but other than soldering the connctions what may have I done to cause the security light to stay on? With key start or remote start.

Thanks JT.posted_image



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Check the facts and try again!




Posted By: floaterr
Date Posted: January 17, 2005 at 1:19 AM
JiggaFan wrote:

I tried to use a PASS23 on a 2003 blazer...module blinked 4 times like it learned the code or whatever, but still didn't stay cranked.

So I did the ol' school Omega bypass which is basically a VATS-type bypass once you learn the resistance value with the key on.

Although it remote starts successfully, I still get a security light during remote start and after the driver inserts the key. But if you start it with key and not remote start, then no security light.

I drove the car on the freeway about 5 miles after a remote start to see if the security light would cause any performance issues, but it didn't. So I just told the owner that the light would be on b/c the car wasn't started with the key, but it didn't hamper operation/performance of the vehicle.

I now have a IBGMBP module that i'll try on the next GM passlock vehicle I get. I don't know about this PASS23...i was told it was supposed to replace the PLDATA2004 modules and what not, but now I see where it is for "some GM Passlock vehicles".



Mine did the same thing till I realized you had to go all the way to "start" then release to "ign". Since anti grind installed this was not an issue. Just an FYI




Posted By: dmguertin
Date Posted: January 17, 2005 at 8:35 AM
I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy that the Security lite would stay on if remote started. I replace the universal bypass module to a Data bypass (bypasskit.com) GMBP. It is working fine now. Easy to install etc.




Posted By: JiggaFan
Date Posted: January 17, 2005 at 10:17 AM
well, i found out another *INSTALLER ERROR*...ID 10 T error.

I was reading the switch settings on the PASS23 settings as "down" when the arrows in the shaded area were pointing "up". for some reason, the shaded area (regardless of the arrows in them) jumped out at me as th pin positions when actually the shaded area has arrows that are pointing in the direction of the non-shaded pin heads.

i've since used both modules successfully. i used the PASS23 on an '01 Aztek. and I used the GMBP on an '00 GMC Sierra. no security light issues or anything.




Posted By: knukonceptz
Date Posted: February 01, 2005 at 9:20 AM
I do not use a passlock mod when installing in gm instead I just tap into the passlock and measure the ohms of the wires with the vehicle running. There is three wires to pass lock and you have to measure between the yellow and black and then add the two readings together and divide by 2 . This will give you what size resistor you will need. After that you will have to jump the resistor from the yellow *computer side wire* to black. Hope this helps out. Thanks.




Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: February 01, 2005 at 9:27 AM
This method will totaly bypass passlock all in all. The reason of using a module is so the passlock still remains active after remote start.

-------------
MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: mxxmikexx
Date Posted: February 02, 2005 at 8:42 PM
you can use a relay and use the same method as knukonceptz described, and it will work perfectly, and still retain the passlock integrety. i dont understand why everyone uses modules on passlock, when all you need is a resistor and a relay and you can save alot of money at the end of the year instead of buying interface modules. ive been doing it this way ever since gm came out with the passlock system and have never had a problem. actually the whole adding together and dividing by two is a little unnecessary, simply start the vehicle, cut the yellow wire, measure resistance between the black wire and the key side of the yellow wire, and now you have your resistance reading.

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Mike Battaglia
Specialized Car Audio
Bensenville IL 60106




Posted By: eastwoodblack
Date Posted: February 11, 2005 at 12:36 PM
The find the value and divide by 2 method is fairly accurate in getting the correct reading. I was doing a RS on a 2004 tahoe and was getting a reading of 1760 in run and when i go to start, then back to run, it read 880. Passlock system can be a pain if you dont do the correct steps the first time. I use the passlock2 module from omega and the security never comes on. The module is very inexpensive and you can hit the value on the head with it....




Posted By: TJ92Civic
Date Posted: February 11, 2005 at 12:42 PM

I just installed a starter in a 97 Cavalier, and I tried the relay/resistor method.  Didn't work out for me, so I bought a dei 555l, and that worked.  Only thing is that it seems to "forget" the code if you don't use the key last before remote starting it.

example, shut car off, go inside or what ever, start car with remote, decide not to go out, shut car off with remote.  It doen't seem to remember the right resistance, or maybe it changes?  You start it again with the remote and the theft light comes on for a little bit, then after a while it wont start.

But it is fine under normal use.

tim





Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: February 11, 2005 at 12:59 PM
When it comes to bypasses, I like to use the Universal Learning Bulldog bypass, connect the orange and yellow wires to the passlock wires, Hook up the +12, -, and -during remote start and thats it. Start the car with the key and within 30 seconds the bypass learns the resistance and your good to go. The best part is these run from $15-20 dollars and they do transponder and all others as well.

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MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: eastwoodblack
Date Posted: February 11, 2005 at 1:12 PM

Do you have a web site where i can find the ULB, I'm interested.  Does it work on foreign cars??





Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: February 11, 2005 at 1:22 PM

This is just a random website but yes it covers all forms of anti theft systems. Alot of people are dicouraged by the name but I personally have abot 50 of these in cars and still not 1 return!!

https://www.sjgreatdeals.com/bld791.html



-------------
MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy





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