1999 Cavalier power door locks + aftermarket alarm

Hi All,

I  have a 1999 Cavalier Z24 (2 door), that came from the factor with the Remote Keyless Enty module. That worked when I got it. I've since had an aftermarket alarm installed, including the power locks wired to it. That also worked once I got it. I then proceded to disconnect (very permanently) the RKE module in the trunk, so the original remotes wouldn't work (I did this primarily to make the trunk release easier to hook up). Once I did that, the power locks still worked from the alarm module. ie. when I hit disarm, ALL the locks would pop open.

But a day ago, I tried unlocking the doors, and the drivers side lock doesn't open. i've tapped and measured, and tested, and it looks like the actuator itself is okay. When locking, there's a 12V pulse on the (grey) lock wire, but it looks like the (tan) unlock wire is floating. No pulse, and no ground, so the locks don't work either way. 

Now, my question is, how was this unit likely installed? The original RKE had a separate unlock output for the drivers side as the other one. Did the installer splice the two together, or is there yet another module I don't know about? My first guess was these wires came apart somewhere, but I can't find *where* that would be.

Again, this setup has worked without the RKE hooked up, so I'm baffled.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks,

joe

leaving the RKE unit hooked up will not affect the aftermarket alarm one bit. cavaliers with the RKE unit usually has factory security, but the only way to arm the factory security is with the factory remotes. therefore, unless you hit lock on the fac remote, the alarm should never, i repeat never arm. leaving the plug hooked up to the RKE will not affect the simplicity of of hooking up trunk pop option. it can still easily be down with the unit plugged. 

with the factory keyless, it has split locks...which will unlock the driver first on first unlock press,,,and unlock the passenger upon second unlock  pressed. you can do that with your aftermarket alarm if it has split lock option on the alarm brain.  also, where were the lock/unlock wires tagged? its very easy to get in the drivers kick panel. youll see a taped up group of wire coming out of the driver side door into the car. tag the thin white and blue wire. those are your ignition lock/unlock wires. blue =lock, white =unlock. hope this helps

Steve, thanks. I disconnected the RKE because I didn't like the idea of 2 sets of remotes opening my car. Plus it was kinda useless. I sure it wasn't doing anything.

My problem is in exactly what you said. With the factor RKE, it would open the driver then the other door (2 presses). I have a pretty run-of-the-mill alarm, with only a single unlock/lock port. I'm trying to figure out how the installer made the alarm open both doors.

thank you

ok, I'm pretty sure you're right (I had found last w/e where the lt blue, etc wires are tapped). BUT, now I'm confused. If the RKE could operate the driver door indepandently, but the switches flip both, there must be yet another relay module somewhere to make it work. and I have a feeling that's what broke.

my haynes manual only shows two connections: the RKE, a relay module (in the passenger kick panel) that takes switch input and provides power to the actuators.

there's got to be a third that's not diagramed, and I'm at a loss for where it could be. do I make sense / any ideas?

but you cleared up lots of other mess. thanks

thx

joe

Mike,

Thanks a lot. I've been scratching my head for the last little while, and I've realized that even with the factor RKE, the inside power lock switches would pop both locks. unless the lock/unlock ports on the RKE were input/outputs (I highly doubt it), there must be something that's not in my haynes diagram.

would it be possible for you to scan / send that shop manual diagram? it could save me some headaches

thanks a lot to everyone.

joe

Joe,

Let me see what I can dig up. I'll have access to the manual tomorrow. Oh, send me your email address.