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IPPME module install

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=4759
Printed Date: July 19, 2025 at 3:23 PM


Topic: IPPME module install

Posted By: ericw
Subject: IPPME module install
Date Posted: October 23, 2002 at 6:07 PM

1.  How do I hook up the "negative ground out from remote starter" (Brown wire) if my remote start unit does not have a "ground when running output"? All I have are Pulsed ground before start, Pulsed ground after start, Pulsed ground after shutdown, Ground output during start( crank).

2.  If my remote start unit has a 2nd ignition output, what do I do with the Pink 16ga wire?

My vehicle is a 2002 Silverado




Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 24, 2002 at 9:58 AM

Use the Ground output during start( crank).Make sure that this wire has (-) current throughout the remote starte sequence.

The 2 nd ignition wire on the RS unit is to control a relay that will energize the WHITE wire on the truck. You need to hook up a relay in this configuration in order for that wire to work with the WHITE one on the truck:

  • 87 & 85 : Fused 12 volts constant
  • 86 : Ground out when running wire
  • 30 : To WHITE wire on truck
  • 87a : NOT USED

The PINK wire is your primary ignition wire that you need to hook up to the IGNITION wire on the RS unit.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: ericw
Date Posted: October 26, 2002 at 6:11 PM

I installed my Prestige APS-685 in my 2002 silverado today but I cant get it to work.  It will get the signal and turn on the lights and engage the starter for a few seconds and then stop, and after about fifteen seconds it tries again automaticly. I have my tach wire hooked up behind my instrument cluster. I also tried connecting it to one of the coils.  My owners manual says that the tach rate has to be programmed.  I went through the sequence as in the manual and the unit responded like it accepted the signal by flashing the lights, but when I try to start the vehicle it just turns over sounds like it wants to start and then shuts off.  The remote starter has a diagnostics setting and it tells me that there is a low or no tach signal.   I did not hook up the wire for my IPPME that is supposed to go to the second ignition output because according to the directions if your remote start unit has a second ignition output you dont have to.  (Could this be the problem why it tries to start but will not)?   I hooked up the brown  wire from my IPPME to the "ground when cranking" output so I don't know if this is part of the problem either(shouldn't that wire have to be grunded the entire time the vehicle runs by the remote start module)?  After trying to start the pickup by remote I can't even start it with my key for a while then it will start right up.  Does anyone have any ideas?



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Posted By: djfearny2
Date Posted: October 26, 2002 at 6:23 PM
what you have to do is learn the tach again and keep the valet switch held until the lights stop flashing then you will know that the tach is hooked up and learned the audiovox units take soemtimes a while to learn tach so redo steps and then you should be ok.

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Jon
Installer/Help Technician
---coral springs florida---
mecp certification is not always needed. I have it and it has not helped me out at all. my experience out shines it.




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 26, 2002 at 9:28 PM

Use this TEST :

Take the BROWN  wire from the IPPME module and temporarily ground this wire to the frame of the truck with alligator clips or whatever. Now try to start the truck with the remote control after you have programmed the tach.

POST YOUR RESULTS.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: ericw
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 5:55 AM
Jeff, I tried grounding the BROWN wire with a jumper like you suggested and the second I hooked it up my IPPME module to the ground it clicked like a relay was energized. Is this normal?  If so I take it that it has to stay energized as long as the truck is running on the remote start module so I will have to find another way to hook the BROWN wire up so that it stays energized while running under remote start.  Am I correct?

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Posted By: ericw
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 5:59 AM
Jon,  in my diagnostics mode of the APS-685 there is a code for not haveing the tach signal programmed.  When I ran the diagnostics check I don't get that code instead I get the code for low, or no tach signal.  Is this still posible if my tach is not programmed correctly?

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Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 8:11 AM
Your problem is that the wire that you have as your GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING is not grounding the entire duration that the remote starter has control of your truck. This is very important because as long as the RS unit has control of the truck , that BROWN wire needs to see a GROUND signal. The BROWN wire has to loose the GROUND signal after you take over the truck with the key and will not have a GROUND signal again until remote start sequence has been activated again.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: ericw
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 10:39 AM
Jeff, any ideas how I can make that wire ground for the entire duration that the RS unit is running my truck?  My unit only has pulsed to ground outputs before start, during cranking, after shutdown,and after start.

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Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 12:45 PM

Found a wire for you !! It's LIGHT BLUE Wire: Ignition 3 / Shock Disable Output. This is the ground out when running wire for transponder bypass use.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: ericw
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 5:29 PM

Jeff, your right!! that wire should do the trick.  Something else I am looking at is the direcions I received with my IPPME module shows a blue looped wire on the side of the module. The directions say cut the loop for Passlock 1 but doesn't say anything about Passlock2. In another set of directions I got from bypasskit.com doesn't show a blue wire but has this connection labeled Programming jumper.It also has each side of the connecter labeled Passlock1 position and Passlock 2 position.  Should I have a jumper for Passlock 2 ?  If so where can I get one because it didn't come with my module?



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Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 5:58 PM
You will not need to cut this loop for the Passlock II systems.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: ericw
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 6:13 PM

Jeff,  my module does not have a loop wire(or at least it didn't come with one).  Do I need to have a wire there?

 I went into past forums and found one between 2000 Blazer and you.  2000 Blazer talkes about the key sense wire, I didn't do anything with this wire.  If I need to hook it up, where do I have to hook it to?



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Posted By: ericw
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 6:54 PM
  Jeff, I also saw when you where talking to 2000 Blazer on June 13,2002 that he must of had a problem with tach signal also, he said everyone he talked to and every web-site he had been on said white was for tach.  You found somewhere that the wire was WHITE/ black.  Is this white wire with a black tracer?  If so I reallize my vehicle is a 2002 but could this be the wire I am looking for sinse both vehicles are GM.

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Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 27, 2002 at 8:48 PM
If your module does not have the BLUE wire thenuse the jumper and have it set to Passlock II. The keysense wire is only connected if the keysense is negative when the doors are closed and the key is in the cylinder. I'm not sure about the 2000 Blazer but I think it's a thin GREEN ( 16 gauge ) wire that runs down along with all the other ignition wires. The tach wire is different than the keysense wire, if that is what you are comparing ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: ericw
Date Posted: October 28, 2002 at 4:37 PM

Jeff, there is no jumper, I don't know if I was shorted the jumper when they shipped me the module or what. I guess that's what I kneed to know. All there is is a four pin connecter on the side of the IPPME module along with the long flat one with 7 pins in it and the 2 pin "power connector" I would call it.  I have no way of knowing if it is set for Passlock 1 or Passlock 2.  I can't see why in the directions it would say Passlock 1 and Passlock 2 position with the arrows pointing to the 4 pin connector because there isn't and switch to set it to Passlock 1 or Passlock 2. Do I need a jumper wire that I don't have for Passlock 2?



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