2002 Diesel GMC remote starter

Installed a remote starter into an '02 GMC diesel Sierra yesterday.  The unit is acting as though I am having a passlock II problem... it tries to start three times, when the engine fires, it dies immediately.  I am not having problems with the 'wait to start' feature... the starter does not engage until the glow plug light goes out on the dash, and unlike the typical passlock II problem, the vehicle does not start remotely with the key in the ignition.

Any helpful ideas on this situation would be helpful.  Thanks.

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KLS Glass Tinting & Electronics

when you tested the rs with the key in the ignition did you unhook the ground when running going to your passlock 2 module? are you sure that it is a passlock2 problem? does your unit have shut down diagnostics?

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What I have done (by accident) was reversing the R code wires on the passlock module. You think its installed correctly, BUT NO, its not. If the module is hooked up incorrectly.....even with the key in the ign. the truck won't start.

Ckeck those R code wires, it says "key side" and "dash side"   switch'em

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I have a fuel pressure gauge on the thing.  If I am correct and Passlock II disengages the fuel pump, then that's not the problem.  I have exactly the same fuel pressure while starting with the key or attempting to start remotely.

The unit does have failure diagnostics, and the only code I am getting is the 'attempted to start three times and failed'.

This morning I went and tested all of the high current wiring.  I am getting the same activation whether starting with the key or remotely.  The only difference between this vehicle and every wiring database is an extra accessory wire, which I wires to an auxiliary output relay.  It seems as though I am losing power to the ignition somewhere, but it isn't on a high current wire from the ignition switch.

I will test the Passlock II polarity again, then check back.  Thanks.

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KLS Glass Tinting & Electronics

The polarity on the Passlock II wires is good.  I really don't think that is the problem here... It's just acting like an anti-theft bypass problem.

I again tested the high current activation sequence, with and without starting with the key.  I have to be missing an ignition wire somewhere, but I am not very familiar with diesels.  There has to be a wire that keeps this thing running that is not being activated after the starter disengages.

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KLS Glass Tinting & Electronics

the ign wires are all the same. did you hook up a tach wire? if so did you try to relearn the tach signal?

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That's what I was just about to do, thanks.  I found out a little more info on my failure just now...  When I start the truck with the key, then hit the start button on the remote, I can take the key out of the ignition with the truck running... again pointing to a passlock problem or tach problem.

I'll try that tach learning sequence again and get back.  Thank again.

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KLS Glass Tinting & Electronics

Tried the tach learn again, no luck.  It looks as though the anti-theft bypass that I am using is not learning the proper resistance value.  I just violated the security while testing the low voltage level, and I am waiting it out to try it again.

Sometimes I wish we could go back to the old bypass units with the adjustable potentiometer.  I know that resistances can change with time and temperature, but it seemed like we as installers had more control with those systems.

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KLS Glass Tinting & Electronics

1.what passlock bypass did you use? 

2.are you sure the alarm is reading the Tach signal?

3.does the security light flash when the truck shuts down?

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I've tried two brands of bypass units on this one.  The one I prefer for the passlocks is the generic kit from bypass.com (very small unit and inexpensive).  Both of them learn the resistance value after running the vehicle for awhile.  I just did that again after clearing the memory in the unit.  I am going to try the re-learn of the resistance and I will get back to you.

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KLS Glass Tinting & Electronics

Yep, that's what it was.  I did try to re-learn that resistance value a couple of times, and it finally learned the correct value.  Guess that's what I get for using the generic bypass units.

The reason I was lost on this particular job was 'cause of the diesel engine.  I have no experience with these vehicles, and I do have experience with these generic bypass kits.  I was barking up the wrong tree, thinking that there was some extra ignition wire for the engine to run.  I mean, it's not like I can test for voltage at a coil or something easy like that.

Thanks for all your time and replies.

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KLS Glass Tinting & Electronics