Intellistart 4 with Intelliguard 950 ?

Hey Guys,
i had an intellguard 950 fitted to my Mitsibushi FTO last month by a clifford dealer, i wouldve prefered to have fit the alarm myself but due to my insurance company needing a fitting certificate it had to be done this way, anyway first problem is my alarm is going off all teh time i reset it, but it will then go off again, reading the manual and looking at the fualt codes it appears to be the Tilt Motion sensor that is giving False Alarms i have checked that it is mounted correctly and all appears fine, the dealers wont touch it as they say it worked fine for them. typical any ideas? it does have sensitivity swicthes on it that i can play with but i dont see how it can be over sensitive, it sites flat under my gear stick consol, could it been surrounded by metallic objects have anything to do with it or is this just the case with the proximity sensors, Do tilt and motion sensors malfunction? or am i just unlucky :(
secondly the intellistart 4 has been fitted by me i wouldnt go back to the fitters for this, i decided to do it myself all wired up with a few questions as it doesnt work yet
When i use the start button (*) on the remote the indicators flash 6 times regardless to if the alarm is armed or unarmed i still get 6 flashes and no engine start, i have checked my wiring i found the supplied installers guide a bit confusing, do i still need to make the two cuts in my ignition barrel connections on the starter and ignition line, wont these cuts have been made already when the alarm was installed? also once the wiring is complete there is the rmp programming setup, in the intellistart manual it says i have to enter my code using the plain view switch then select column 1 and row 5 then wait for the indicators to flash twice this doesnt happen, am i missing something why row 5? in my g5 ig950 manual coloumn 1 row 5 has nothin to do with the intellistart or rpm programming atall?
any ideas guys woow long post sorry

Hey Dance. Agree with STUBBS 100%. I also have the 950 (dealer installed) and Intellistart (DIY) and I have exactly the same issue with the alarm going off. I have plugged the alarm into the cliffnet wizard and it sayd that sensor MUX2 is to blame. Apparently this is the glass tamper sensor...I turned it down to it slowest setting and put a bit of electrical tape oveR the front of the sensor and havent had a false alarm since....

On the intellistart problem:
Is the car still fitted with the factory alarm? Have you bypassed it?

Does your car have a chip in the key that is required for the car to start? I had to build a bypass module to get intellistart to work on my V reg BMW.

Is your car manual or automatic? If auto - ensure you have connected te BLACK/ green to ground.

Not sure if you car has 2 ignition loops - may be worth checking.

Let us knbow how you get on....

Oh yeah...should have added.....

If you look under the dash you should be able to find where the dealer already cut your igntion circuits. You should be able to solder your connections directly onto his...worked for me and save you haveing to trace and track wires etc...

I had already Tap and spliced all of my ignition wires the day before taking the car into the dealers for my push button engine start system. luckily they havnt messed with any of those :)
as for the intellistart i think its a wiring problem, do i need to use the wizard to program the rpm? cannot i not juts use the selectable features programming option with the plain view switch??
also are Clifford Wizard like on the website and Clifford Wizard Pro completely different?? is one for the public and the other for installers?
do i need the pro version to complete my installation
as for my car no factory immobilisers or alarms or dual igntion ccts so its all good there :)

PM me your email addy re the Wizard Pro .....

Could this be related to your push button start install ? Are your intellistart connections on the starter/coil side of the push button relay?

Apologies if the info below is teaching grannie to suck eggs but its better to have too much info when your troubleshooting I think...

You shouldnt have to programme the RPM for intellistart as the installer should already have done this when he installed the main unit and intellistart 'lifts' the settings. I didnt have to re-programme RPMs as it worked without using the software at all but I did install the tach wire on intellistart anyway....

I did mess about with it using the wizard pro software but the car sounded rough as a badgers ar$e until I set it back to what it was when I first installed the software....

To get the intellistart to work I got away with the minimum wiring as follows:

Black / Grey - RPM
Blue / Green - Reverse Light (auto) (see Note** below for manual gearbox)
3 X red - +ve - (check all your fuses just to make sure)
Black / Ground - Ensure you have a good earth point, theres a lot of juice needed for this.
Green / Blue - Coil side +ve
White / Blue - Starter side +ve
Black / Green - Ground (ive got an automatic)
Blue / Orange - drives the relay for my immobiliser bypass (See note** below for manual gearbox)

Check at least theses ones again to make sure OK.

NOTE** Im assuming your car is not an automatic? If so, have you connected the blue/Green to the wire thats positive when the handbrake is on? If not, the car wont start as it thinks the handbrake is off.....If manual you also need to install the clutch bypass relay

Did your installer fit a switch on the bonnet? Did he connect to the brake light? He should have done both but if not, you need to fit these for safety (i.e. engine switches off if bonnet open or brake pressed. Dont think they affect it starting though.)

Did you have the cliffnet wizard port installed by the dealer? If so, you need to unplug wizard port from the 950 control unit, plug intellistart data port into 950 data port then plug the wizard port into the intellistart.

Let me know how you got on. Im no expert but Ive been in your position and I know its personal when your toys dont work properly (its a guy thing...)

No the Push Start is one ive designed abd built it doesnt work on the same principle as the ones you buy elsewhere but still it wont make a difference to the alarm / intellistart as its not connected but point noted :)
my car is a manual so i will need to conneft the blue grenn wire to my handbrake to false it i just tied it to 12v during my testing so that would simulate handbrake on,
as for the installers having already connected the tacho and brake light wires up they hadnt!! they claimed it breaks thachem approval to do it, so i basically have no tacho monitoring for auto door locking etc nor any blackjax either easily sorted though i will play with that once i get the intellistart going, if i connect my intellistart to the tacho line will i still need to connect the ig 950 to teh tacho aswell wouldnt that get its feed from the data port on the intellistart? and vice versa?
when you say
Green / Blue - Coil side +ve
White / Blue - Starter side +ve
do you mean under the steering column where the wires exit the barrel i connect Green / Blue to the Ignition line (key in ign position) and White / Blue to the starter line ( sprung loaded stage final position 12v while held) ?? is this correct?
cheers dude

Dance, Check your email...

I think the installer may be telling you porkies as the 950 has full thatcham categorisation therefore all bits of it can be installed. Its only when you add things like Intellistart (that Thatcham havent evaluated) that it loses its status.....

I think one of your problems is the lack of tach wire. Out of the box, intellistart is set to 'tach used'. You need to change this using the wizard to tachless or install the tach wire.

The manual for the IG850 states that if you are installing intellistart, dont use the tach on the 850, use the intellistart one...

Re GREEN/ blue & WHITE/ blue - you are correct but you should not have to cut any more wires. Find where the installer installed the immobiliser on the coil/starter side (he cut the wires already) and attach these 2 to the same place he soldered in the connection.

Let me know how you get on.

I agree with what you say about the installer telling me porkies! i knew that the intellistart isnt cat 1 but i was sure that the entire alarm was full cat 1 including every feature on it, some ideally are there to give it its cat 1 status no doubt :)
as for the tach wire connecting to the intellistart i have done this already so that wont be a problem, once i get this working i will test the blackjax / auto rpm dependent door locking etc to see if my IG950 can read teh tach via the intellistart.
As per those two wires i already have taps coming from all wires connecting to my ignition barrel side, which i connceted to via splice connectors and terminated with terminal blocks (i always make these connections on all new cars for ease of connections and convenience) so i guess what im doing here is wrong as they will be cut further down? (coil and starter side) or should i not worry as is it the case that once u press the "*" Start engine button the intellistart tells the IG950 to un-immobilise thus (allowing a connection from the barrel to the coil / starter) and allwoing the intellistart to crank the engine??? this is worrying me! or when you say find where he cut and solder at these points (Coil & Starter side of the two wires) do you mean that connecting on the barrel side of the wires is pointless as the connections will remain broken untill the alarm has been disarmed and when i press the "*" button , my alarm doesnt re connect these two connections straight through as it would if i was to disarm the alarm and use the key!
Sorry this is complciated mate :) sure you can figure it out p.s cheers for the email just trying to get m$ to allow me to open it! keeps blocking

I think i understand what you are saying. You are assuming that the IG950 will "switch off" the immobiliser. I dont think it does. I think you have connected as per diagram A below. It should be as per diagram B.

Connecting on the barrel side of the immobiliser wont work....



On the diagram, I have the intellistart further down the line but in reality Ive attached the wires to the coil/starter side connections of the immobiliser.

I think we are getting there.....

If you cant get email, email me a postal addy and ill send on CD.

Thats Exactly what i meant,
cheers mate
think thats a little stupid that it doesnt un-immobilise the alarm , alough thinking about it, it must do as how else would fuel pump immbolisers work if the alarm didnt deactivate them, ahh well, another question for you, you say i can plug the intellistart straight into the data port on my IG950 there already appears to be a connection going there which has a piggy back socket on it that i could plug my intellistart into does this seem normal? i.e should i just plug my inteliistart into this piggy back port or shall i plug it in directly and then plug prsent connection into my intellistart pass thur port?
an one final question for now :) the ACC line does it need to be connected? and if so i assume it simply means it will activae normal acc things from the avaliable outputs upon engine start rather than saying ti connects to the acc line is this correct?

Thats Exactly what i meant,
cheers mate
think thats a little stupid that it doesnt un-immobilise the alarm , alough thinking about it, it must do as how else would fuel pump immbolisers work if the alarm didnt deactivate them, ahh well, another question for you, you say i can plug the intellistart straight into the data port on my IG950 there already appears to be a connection going there which has a piggy back socket on it that i could plug my intellistart into does this seem normal? i.e should i just plug my inteliistart into this piggy back port or shall i plug it in directly and then plug prsent connection into my intellistart pass thur port?
an one final question for now :) the ACC line does it need to be connected? and if so i assume it simply means it will activae normal acc things from the avaliable outputs upon engine start rather than saying it connects to the acc line is this correct?

Good news. I hop-e thats all it is....

Dataport: Not sure to be honest. mine didnt have this piggy back adaptor you mention. Originally, the IG950 data port was conected to the Cliffnet interface. I unplugged the cliffnet interface from the IG950 and plugged Intellistart into the 950. I then plugged the Cliffnet interface into Intellistart.

No harm in trying the piggy back connector as its 2 second job to change the config....

Acc line: I didnt have to connect this one as my motor activates acc when started. If you need it connected, it should be connected to the wire that powers the stereo/air con/heating etc....This is so you can preset heating night before, remote start in morning and get into a warm motor....

good luck

Youre Spot on thats exactly what i meant
seems weird that the intelliguard doesnt de-immobilise doesnt it? does that not mean that a thief can still start the engine if the alram does go off it shouldnt matter as everyone ignores it the vehicle will still run if it is hot wired??
anyway i will give this a try tommorow
one other question about the acc wire, that comes from the intellistart is it asking me to connect it to the acc position on the barrel or does it mean that that connection will supply anything i want connected as if it was an acc output i.e once the engine has started??

Sorry didnt read your reply about the acc line, cheers for all the help mate appreciate it

Dance, the alarm sensors will be bypassed when intellistart is on and engine running but immob stays on. For security and safety, you must fit at least the clutch and brake wires. Therefore if as crim does get in, as soon as they touch either pedal, the engine cuts off and car remains immobilised.

If the bypass the immob, your bu$$ered anyway...as you say, no-one pays attention to alarms anymore,...

Personally, I have went for the belt and braces approach and switched on blackjax therefore crim gets in and presses brake, engine cuts off. If he bypasses immob and gets it started, he will get about 500 yards before blackjax cuts the engine. Bit of a pain initially when you have to put the code in every time you get in or a door opens but you get used to it....

let me know how you get on.

Ok all installed and more problems :(
in the intellistart Instructions it says to go into the programming mode, and goto column 1 row 5 and hit the arm/disarm button to set rpm programming with 2 flashs, if i look up what column 1 row 5 is in my 950 manual its auto doors features, sod all to do with intellistart, if i read the 850 manual as i cant get the 950 one yet it shows to go into expented progarmming options that when you enter the pin and hold the * button on the plainview switch and it beeps 1 then keep holding 3 times i then goto column 3 row 1 and then hit the arm / disarm button the lights flashed twice to indicate the RPM had been set, this is great but it only worked once! :( i havent yet managed to try out the data port but i will try this tommorow borrowing a laptop from work!
do i have to use the add new remote with remote start learn feature (coloumn 3 row 5 of the standard programming features Not extended) after completing all of the wiring all i seem to get is 6 flashs when i press the * button the remote this is untill i tried to reset the rmp progarmming now i get nothing atall, it doesnt attempt to crank the engine
any ideas??

Dance, best advice right now is to wait until you get a laptop sorted out....When you say "nothing happens" do the indicators flash 2x then no cranking or "nothing at all"....

Out of the box, 950 and Intellistart are programmed to work from the remote. Have you confirmed with the manual that you are pressing the right buttons to get intellistart to start the car (auto is single press of "*" but I think manual is different....(may be stupid question - apologies if it is)....

You can check on the button assignment using the wizard. Setting RPM is also far easier with the wizard and you can actually "see" the settings rather than thinking your changing them using the valet switch....

Have you plugged the IS module directly into the 950 without the piggy back connector for dataport?

You could try your digi meter on the intellistart outputs to confirm that they are trying to start the car. this would indicate something down the line is preventing cranking...

Can you email me a drawing of your wiring setup or confirm all of the wires you have connected and what you have connected them to. Helps to visualise sometimes....

Good news it works!!
the piggy back connector seems to be the data connection to the siren so piggy backing into the intellistart and then again with the data lead via the intellistart seems to work flawlessly i was impressed that the software was virtually flawless, a few bugs i spotted but as a programmer i know how hard it can be to get software and hardware to intergrate 100%, to get it working i did need the laptop and wizard software this is where i saw that i could not program the rpm correctly it seems to be dragging my tacho line down when i connect the line to too many devices, quite annoying as im gonna need to design a small circuit to amplify my tacho pulses! i have 3 taps on the line already for other equipment in the car!
so far i have just wired the Black / Green wire directly to ground (pretend i have an auto) this is temp and i will disconnect this weekend and wire correctly to handbrake and install a clutch and brake lines also into my IG950 to give blackjax a tryout
i have set it to run with no tacho mode as the tacho readings i was seeing were like 260 rpm!! not exactly correct for my V6! like i say its gotta be a problem with the weakness of the tacho line as my tachometer guage dips when i connect any other piece of equipment to the line. lets see how what i can come up with a small transistor amplifier circuit properly FET