2003 Ford F250 HD

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |
|              12V|yellow & lt. grn/pur|+  |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|green               |+  |ignition harness            |
|         IGNITION|RED / lt. green       |+  |ignition harness            |
|  SECOND IGNITION|gray / YELLOW         |+  |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|RED / black           |+  |ignition harness            |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|blue/lt. green      |+  |ignition harness            |
|       POWER LOCK|*1                  |   |*1                          |
|     POWER UNLOCK|*1                  |   |*1                          |
|       LOCK MOTOR|pink/black          |   |VSM *2                      |
|     UNLOCK MOTOR|RED / orange          |   |VSM *2                      |
|    DISARM DEFEAT|pink/orange         |   |VSM *2                      |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|brown               |   |headlight switch            |
|       HEADLIGHTS|RED / yellow          |+  |headlight switch            |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|BLACK/ lt. blue      |+  |either kick panel           |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger    |   |                            |
|  FCTRY ALARM ARM|                    |   |                            |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|                    |   |                            |
|       TACHOMETER|*3                  |   |ignition coils              |
|      SPEED SENSE|gray/black          |   |instrument cluster or *4    |
|       BRAKE WIRE|lt. green           |+  |brake pedal switch          |
|     HORN TRIGGER|blue                |-  |steering column or VSM *2   |
|           WIPERS|blue/orange         |-  |steering column             |
|  LF WINDOW UP/DN|wht/blk - tan/lt blu|A  |driver window switch        |
|  RF WINDOW UP/DN|wht/yel - tan/lt blu|A  |driver kick panel           |
|  LR WINDOW UP/DN|gry/org - yel/lt blu|A  |driver kick panel           |
|  RR WINDOW UP/DN|yel/blk - RED / blk   |A  |driver kick panel           |
|        RADIO 12V|lt. GREEN/ purple    |+  |radio                       |
|     RADIO GROUND|BLACK/ lt. green     |-  |radio                       |
|     RADIO SWITCH|pink                |+  |radio                       |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|lt blue/red (dimmer)|+  |radio                       |
|       LF SPEAKER|org/lt grn-lt blu/wh|   |radio                       |
|       RF SPEAKER|wht/lt grn - grn/org|   |radio                       |
|       LR SPEAKER|gry/lt blu - tan/yel|   |radio                       |
|       RR SPEAKER|org/red - brn/pnk   |   |radio                       |

Notes:
NOTE: On DIESEL vehicles the wait to start light is activated by a databus wire from the ECM. To do wait to start use a pulse timer relay and follow directfax document #1091.
*1 Without keyless entry use pink / YELLOW for lock and pink/lt. green for unlock. They are 5 wire reverse polarity mastered from the driver switch and found in either kick panel. With keyless entry use WHITE/ red for lock and BLACK/ white for unlock. They are negative trigger and found at the VSM. On the vehicles with keyless entry the GEM shuts down after the doors have been locked for a certain time period, to "wake-up" the system refer to directfax document #1094.
*2 The VSM (Vehicle Security Module) is to the right of the accelerator pedal on the transmission hump.
*3 For tach go to any one of the ignition coils and use the wire that is NOT RED / lt. green. On diesel vehicles the tach wire is green, in a 42 pin plug under the clamp on the engine side of the air intake duct.
*4 Also found at the radio on vehicles that have the in-dash CD changer.

If it is a diesel, get the tach at the left side of the steering column just below the fuse panel.  You will see a big wire harness with 4 wires taped to the side of it use the GREEN / WHITE. 6cyl  It might also be there for a gas but I haven't done a gas yet.

Try it first to see if you acually to need to wake up the GEM.  The way to test it is roll down the window, lock the doors and close them.  Come back in a 5 minutes and press unlock.  If the doors unlock you will not have to wake up the GEM,  IF they do not unlock you will have to.  To wake it up you need to cut the yellow/black in the drivers door boot and add in a relay.  30 to one side of wire 87a to other and 86 to fused 12v, 85 to pulse before unlock.  Also hook up a wire that is pulse after remote start shutdown to shut off the radio after the remote start shuts off.

I have done 3 2003's that didn't need the GEM wake up and 4 that did.  All of the 2002's I have done needed it.  Seems like it must be something that changed recently.

Memphisman,

Is your truck a diesel? Are you putting in autostart? I am in the middle of my install; a Viper 550 ESP in my 2002 F250 SD diesel it will eventually have autostart, but at this time I have just the alarm in place. I have a note from another guy that has the same truck and alarm as mine and he says that the dome light delay, when used for the door trigger is a problem for the autostart. It seems that when he auto starts, the dome light comes on and triggers the alarm. Anyway, would you please keep me posted on your install. Thanks

Hi,

I was getting ready to post a message for some of the info above; thanks for answering and helping me vicariously :)

In addition to the above questions, I would like to ask a few.  Firstly, I have a few questions as to what some abbreviations mean.  What does GEM and ECM stand for?  Im sure it sounds like a silly question, but I am a bit rusty and dont recall having ever learned any of the above terms.

Also, my instal manual notes that I need bypass the transponder; is this so and what is the reason for this? 

Aside from the above, is there anything else I should be forewarned about or reccomendations?

Thanks guys,

Dave

Generic Electronic Module
Electronic Control Module

There is no transponder on the super duty trucks.

Actually it's really a pretty smart feature IMHO.  That truck is pretty easy to slip a coathanger in and push the unlock button.  This prevents that and makes the truck a lot harder to break into. 

Hello everyone,

Sorry to keep asking such stupid questions, but there are a few things I want to verify before fullfilling my installation. 

The VSM is noted as being to the right of the accelorator and above the tranny hump; all I have found in that local is a metal box covered by a plastic shield, located almost dead center and directly on top of the hump.  is this indeed the VSM?

Also, I have installed a couple of alarms that had problems with the accessories powering up, i.e., everything powerups except for the guages and a/c.  Sincer there are two acc. in the cluster, must they both be powered up?  I have used the second ignition output to suppliment this in the past, but I need both (the alarm offers two) for the two ignitions, correct?  Should I use a relay? If so, what should it be wired to? 

Like I said, I know these are stupid questions, my God, I am MECP certefied, but when it comes to my vehicle, not to mention others', I would rather ask twice and do once.  I no longer work in a shop so have noone else to ask - thank God for you guys.

In any event, thanks for all your help - ya'll are definitly life savers!!!

Thanks again,

David

Yes, that is the VSM, look for the wires associated with the VSM and test to make sure they are infact the right ones with a DMM. As far as a sceond accessory wire, you need a relay wired like this:

• 87 : 12 volts constant
• 86 : GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING
• 85 : Accessory 1 wire on car or remote starter
• 30 : To accessory 2 on vehicle
• 87a: NOT USED

Make sure that the second ignition wire that you have on the remote starter does not have a current load limitation on it. Most systems that I have worked with has a second ignition wire on the harness but  it only triggers a relay (-) and in some cases the 2nd ignition wire carries a 6 amp max load on it.

Thanks Jeff for the reply...

I too thought that was the VSM, but after testing each and every wire (there were a few), I found that it wasnt the module.  I did find it almost directly above this "module" and it was right behind the radio. 

In any event, I have some further questions:  I have seen a few notes regarding the dome light delay.  When one exits the vehicle, the domelight remains lit until the delay is over, or the doors are locked via the remote.  No prob there, thats what it should do...However, once the engine is turned off, the domelight also turns on, which, in the event of remote shutdown, would trigger the alarm, correct?  So, how would I rectify this?  Would I do the abvoious and remove all four door panes and isolate the triggers via diodes?  God I hope not, pain in the arse... 

Also, on the schematics for the relay build that you gave me, I am a bit uncertain as to what the 85 terminal goes to.  From what I see, it looks like it could either go to the acc wire (1) on the car, or the output from the alarm.  Thats all fine, but in the first, would I need to interupt the cars acc wire and add a link to the relay, or in the later, wouldnt I need the acc output to go the the car's acc?

As noted above, I know these are stupid questions and I cant thank you enough for bearing with me. 

Thanks again,

David

P.s. who makes the delay relay for the wait to start and where would be the best place to find it?  noone in my town has them in stock.  thanks again

David, I have had the best luck when adding a second acc. is to use 2 relays;

-acc wire from remote starter to 86 of both relays

-85 of both relays to ground

-87 of both relays to 12+

-30 from one relay to acc. 1

-30 from the other relay to acc. 2

Pin 85 goes to the primary ACCESSORY wire either from the remote starter or the vehicle (RED / LIGHT GREEN ). Unfortunately, you need to diode isolate the door triggers for the domelight delay...individually. Here is a great post that goes into detail about the GEM bypass:

Door Triggers / False Alarm / Diode Wiring

try your local Radio Shack or electronics store for the wait to start use a pulse timer relay .

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Hey David,

Sorry, but it's not as easy as just isolating the door triggers.....tried that, if you read my post you'll see. https://https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=3&TopicID=4971&PagePosition=6#thread

These Fords have switches built into the door latch that are normally CLOSED to ground. This is telling the alarm that the door is open when it is closed. I tried several times too get help and communicate the problem, but apparently no body knows how to fix it.

If you do figure it out PLEASE LET ME KNOW.....thanks

I can't remember, does the truck have an indicator on the dash telling you the doors are open?

If not, this is going to be almost impossible to do.  You would need 2 or 4 relays (depending on if it is a 2 door or 4 door)  and the relays would be energised whenever the doors are closed.  This is not acceptable.  Let me think about this a while, there has to be a way to do it.  I think most would use the dome light wire.

I am with you Danny, did a 03 F250 superduty today and found out you cannot use the latch wiring. It shows 3 volts when door is open and ground with the doors shut.  I ended up using the BLACK/ blue almost under the front seat below the kick plate.  What happens now is that when you arm the system after shutting the doors the alarm chirps three times and when the dome shuts off it chirps to confirm it sees the domelight turn off.  There is a light in the dash that only comes on with the key.  I have to research it more to confirm what I can do to resolve this glitch.  So much for diode isolating the doors with the latch wires.  It keeps getting harder every day!

DanDan

Thanks again for all your help...

It looks like Im not the only one sailing in the domelight problem boat.  I am using a Viper 550esp, by the way.

The domelight is only a problem when 1) the alarm is set and 2) when remote start shutsdown.  I have to wait until the light goes out to arm, otherwise it neglects the door triggers.  It is only a fifteen second wait, but who wants to hang around of walk off slowly enough to allow the alarm time to arm.  Also, when the engine cuts off, the light goes on, therefore it "thinks" the doors are open.

I dunno, hope that we can figure it out between all of us.  Time will tell...

Thanks again,

David

Hey fishscale,

To beat domelight delay use LIGHT GREEN/ YELLOW in driver's kick and PINK/LIGHT BLUE in passenger kick.  These wires test as ground with door closed and open with door open. Use a 502T ground loop sensor on EACH DOOR. The 502T is a DEI piece.

It can be done with relays but it drains the battery in no time flat.