Compustar Remote Start Problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=49453
Printed Date: June 06, 2025 at 5:20 PM
Topic: Compustar Remote Start Problem
Posted By: mc959
Subject: Compustar Remote Start Problem
Date Posted: February 05, 2005 at 11:34 PM
Hi, I just had the Compustar 2W900FMR installed at a local shop and I'm having an odd problem with the remote start. In the mornings (when the car has been siting for several hours), it works fine. But if the car is warm (as in having been running recently), the autostart doesn't work. It cranks up, (the starter seems to run on for longer than normal) and then engine runs for 2-3 seconds and then shuts itself off. It repeats this 2 more times and never properly starts. The installer says it's because I need to install an Immobilizer Bypass Module, but when I went to have another key made the dealership told me I didn't need a key with a chip in it because my car doesn't even have an Immobilizer system! Anyone know why this could be happening? The installer should have known this wasn't the problem since it works perfectly when the engine is "cold". Obviously my installer's troubleshooting skills are lacking, so any info you guys can give me to point them in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. The vehicle is a '99 Toyota 4Runner SR5. One other question. They also said I need to have a pin switch installed for the trunk sensor to work. Does anyone know if this is true? The wiring diagram they are using says there is no dedicated (-) Trunk Pin wire in the car and that it uses the same wire as the doors, but it doesn't and I've seen several diagrams on this site that say there a dedicated wire (Light Green\Red - ). Shouldn't they be able to use the existing pin? If you know for sure, let me know.
Replies:
Posted By: wblakes
Date Posted: February 06, 2005 at 8:20 AM
maybe it's having trouble with the tach. use tach sensing and learn it. for the trunk use a diode and tie into the door triggers.
Posted By: mc959
Date Posted: February 06, 2005 at 12:46 PM
wblakes wrote:
maybe it's having trouble with the tach. use tach sensing and learn it. for the trunk use a diode and tie into the door triggers.
I thought it might be related to that, but I'm not exactly sure how the tach sensing is supposed to operate (or what it is supposed to do). Can you explain how it's supposed to work and how to learn it? As for the trunk\rear hatch, they did tie into the door triggers initially, but obviously they didn't test it since the trunk doesn't trigger the alarm. It appears to have it's own trigger, but since it's not on the diagram they are using, they can't find it.
Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: February 06, 2005 at 12:50 PM
Yeah it sounds like a tach issue. It isn't the most common tach issue but I have been hearing about things like this lately. Try relearning the tach signal when the car is warm and the accessories are on high.
As far as the door triggers go: There are 2 ways to get them. Use the Dome light sensor or grab each door trigger wire and diode isolate them. There is a wire for the rear hatch so your installer is just trying to make a few bucks on you. I assume he grabbed the dome light though. If the dome light comes on when you open the hatch then the hatch should trigger the alarm. If not then you will need to diode isolate the hatch trigger and the dome sensor wire or use a different zone trigger input on the alarm if it has an extra one.
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J Rilla
Owner/Installer
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: February 06, 2005 at 1:02 PM
I show the Immobilizer ByPass is available.
If you know the vehicle starts & runs the total time of Remote Start, then I would want to check wiring & Tach | Trunk Pin Switch | BLUE/WHITE (-) | AT SWITCH IN REAR DOOR |
------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: mc959
Date Posted: February 06, 2005 at 1:50 PM
So it sounds like re-learning the tach when it's warm is the way to go. Are there instructions for this somewhere? I can ask the installer to do it, but my confidence in them is low.. I'm pretty sure they tapped into the dome light, and the rear hatch doesn't trigger the main dome light since it has it's own. I asked if they could attach to the rear dome light, and he said he couldn't since there was no ground wire to it... Anyway, I've seen two different wires mention on this site and I'm not sure which one is right, maybe both? One is the blue/white that mo12v mentioned above and the other is a Light Green\Red that is supposed to be in the driver's kick panel. Anyone know which is correct? One more question. Does the Compustar have an independent module for shock sensing? Or is the sensor part of the brain? And is it possible to add aditional shock sensors? (it seems to be sensitive enough at the front of the vehicle, but I can't trip the first stage at the rear of the vehicle) OK, that was more than one question, but at least they were related. :)
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: February 06, 2005 at 1:54 PM
Did he even use a tach wire?? He might not have. I'm not familiar with Compustar line but most starters have a tach or tachless mode. If he used tachless then he may have set the cranking time too high. It sounds like from what your describing that the engine needs a little extra cranking time when it's cold. Of course when it is warm it will kick right over fine with the key. But if he has the tachless crank setting too high the remote starter will turn over and start the warm engine right away. But the starter continues cranking because the remote starter brain is telling it too. This can cause the vehicle's own over-rev protection to shut down the engine even after it successfully started. It may also be the Compuustar shutting down because it senses a problem.
Either way, this installer should be tracking down the problem, not making you figure it out. You did pay to have it installed and they need to troubleshoot the problem. If it needed a bypass then it certainly wouldn't turn over some of the time. It would never start remotely and remain running no matter what the engine temp was. It may have been produced in 1998 before the immobilizers were put in. The 1998 did not have an immobilizer, so your vehicle is most likely in between. More importantly though, if the dealer says it is not equipped with it then it is not.
Tell him to show you where he made his connection for the Tach. It should be under the hood and easy for him to show you. It should be located in the diagnostic plug on the drivers side of the engine compartment or at an injector. If he can't then he probably didn't hook up a tach (which is way more reliable). Make him hook it up if he didn't. Otherwise the settings are not correct and/or he did not use a good tach location.
The trunk pin should be tied in with the doors (lt. GREEN/ black) and located behind the driver's side junction block in a 13 pin plug if it's wired like a 99. If it's wired like a 98 then the Trunk/Hatch Pin should be RED / white in the Driver's kick panel or the in the harness going to the rear of the vehicle.
1998 Toyota 4runner wiring diagram
1999 Toyota 4runner wiring diagram
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